What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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MassHoe04

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Boyo back-up cam from Crutchfield installed yesterday.

I put a crimp-on fork terminal connector on the ground wire on the back end of the harness. I slipped the flat connector under the metal clip that the screw holding the tail light assembly in goes. Ground wire contacts clip, clip contacts screw, screw contacts body.

Ran the wire up front along the bottom of the trim panels on the passenger side, into the glove box area and out at the new Boss radio I installed last weekend.

Plug the video feed in and use a Tap-it wire connector to connect the power.

The Crutchfield Ready Harness already uses the factor Reverse Trigger, so no need to tap anything on reverse lights or the trailer harness. Just the ground and plug-in camera harness connector in the back.

Having that dedicated "Rear Cam PWR 12V+" wire on the radio eliminates the need to figure out where to tap accessory power wires under the dash. You could tap the reverse light bulb wire for power, but your cam would only function while actively in Reverse. Using the feed provided on the cam, provides power with key on. You can fire up the cam to see what is behind you any time, not just in reverse. That could be handy if checking a trailer behind you.

Image quality is really sharp. The Boyo cam has infrared LED things that make the cam have a 0 LUX light requirement. Other cams need a little more light (1-3 LUX) to really be clear at night. This one "sees" great when totally dark!

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Wide angle lens has a great view of the surroundings.

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Sam Harris

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Boyo back-up cam from Crutchfield installed yesterday.

I put a crimp-on fork terminal connector on the ground wire on the back end of the harness. I slipped the flat connector under the metal clip that the screw holding the tail light assembly in goes. Ground wire contacts clip, clip contacts screw, screw contacts body.

Ran the wire up front along the bottom of the trim panels on the passenger side, into the glove box area and out at the new Boss radio I installed last weekend.

Plug the video feed in and use a Tap-it wire connector to connect the power.

The Crutchfield Ready Harness already uses the factor Reverse Trigger, so no need to tap anything on reverse lights or the trailer harness. Just the ground and plug-in camera harness connector in the back.

Having that dedicated "Rear Cam PWR 12V+" wire on the radio eliminates the need to figure out where to tap accessory power wires under the dash. You could tap the reverse light bulb wire for power, but your cam would only function while actively in Reverse. Using the feed provided on the cam, provides power with key on. You can fire up the cam to see what is behind you any time, not just in reverse. That could be handy if checking a trailer behind you.

Image quality is really sharp. The Boyo cam has infrared LED things that make the cam have a 0 LUX light requirement. Other cams need a little more light (1-3 LUX) to really be clear at night. This one "sees" great when totally dark!

View attachment 386494

Wide angle lens has a great view of the surroundings.

View attachment 386495
That looks really good! Especially for $40..! I’ve been considering upgrading my backup cam.. it’s adequate, but would like a better one. That looks like a winner.
 

Sam Harris

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Well, I thought I had everything I needed tonight to finish up. Had to relocate the rear brake splitter bracket, as it was hitting the diff housing when lined up with the new cover. I thought about just notching a chunk out, but decided to just add another bracket to bump it up a tiny bit. All set… torqued the 10 bolts to 25ft lbs as prescribed, tightened the girdle bolts to 5ft lbs. time to fill ‘er up with some quality Amsoil! I bought 3 of the plastic quart squeeze packs, assuming 3 would be enough, as the factory spec is 2.something, but it wasn’t full!! I thought the new cover may add a little capacity, but not that much.. now that I’m no longer under there breaking my back, it looks like there’s a drain hole on the passenger side of the diff housing.? I have always just filled to the bottom of the fill hole, but apparently that’s improper procedure, and will be too much. Oof. This is taking me far too long to complete. Lol. The QA1 panhard bar is also proving to be a fun time to get into the frame brackets while lying on the ground. Holy shxt..! I think that’s a 2-person job. I’ll get back out there in the morning, and find the other plug… sounds like I’ll be draining some out lol
 

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Sam Harris

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Stupid picture limit… I was installing the panhard bar, and realized it was going to be in the way of the fill plug, so stopped.. but if I’m going to end up draining some “extra” from the side, I can also wrap that up tomorrow hopefully.
 

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Tonyrodz

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Sam Harris

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Ok I finally got the QA1 panhard bar installed, and the TA Performance girdled diff cover. I swear, every time I work on the truck it seems like “easy” stuff ends up with one challenge after another. Lol. Anyway, the passenger side bracket for the new panhard was unbelievably tight. I tried ratchet straps (2), many iterations of prybar action, scraped all the gunk off the inside of the brackets to make sure there was nothing preventing the bushing from sliding in..you name it.. I tried it! finally, I pulled it back out, and ended up machining off about 1/16” from the bolt sleeves, because no matter what I did, they kept getting hung up on the brackets, and are just about a 16th longer than the loop ends. After doing that, I greased the bushings, and was able to get the driver side in with the expected amount of prybar action. Back to the passenger side.. I ended up finally using my floor jack to push up on that one, with a 2x4, to avoid buggering up the paint. That got it within about 1/8”… next, I got my biggest prybar back out and was pushing the truck rear up so much (30x or
So) that it triggered my dash camera to turn on. Ha! but it would only move a tiny bit.. I’m now within 1/16” or less and it was soooo close.. I found a pair of needle nose pliers that fit inside the sleeve and were just big enough I thought.. hey, it’s tool steel.. should be pretty solid.? Hammered on that a few times, to bring the sleeve up to the bracket hole, and then I could finally get the bolt in. I honestly believe this job would have taken me no time at all if I just had a lift! After I got everything back together, it was time to pull the passenger side plug, so I could drain the extra 75-90 in it, since I had added 3 quarts from the Amsoil squeeze packs, and the diff is supposed to be full after something like 2.2 quarts. What I read said the passenger side plug should be the reference point of the full diff. You pull that plug, and it should drain to the bottom of that port. So got her off the Jack stand nice and level, crawled back under there for hopefully the last time, pulled that plug.. and.. nothing came out. Wtf.. stuck my pinky in the hole, and still couldn’t touch the fluid level. So I’m confused as ****. I added 3 full quarts, and it still seems low. If this TA Performance cover adds a bit of capacity, I haven’t seen it mentioned in the instructions, and even if so, how much could it be? I’m planning to get more Amsoil tomorrow hopefully somewhere locally, so I can finally drive her again. Just floored that it could need that much in the diff. Apologies for the novel, I feel like this install was just about a 300 page book. :okay2:
 

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