MassHoe04
Full Access Member
Awesome!!! What a major improvement over stock lighting! As soon as I have an opportunity, I hope to get that upgrade done. Recently, I have had to deal with basic things like brakes...
What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter vwbeaner
- Start date
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MassHoe04
Full Access Member
Ever see Groundhog Day with Bill Murray? That was my weekend!
You may recall the issue I had with new brakes in the rear... Rotor on rear driver's side was glowing red and smoking at one point. I thought maybe the caliper stuck. Forced ABS activation a few times on the snowy roads. It stopped glowing, but was still getting extremely hot. I had to get to work in the morning, so I just hoped I might burn enough off the new pads to stop the overheat and get me to work and back. I did make it back OK. No fires!
Last night, I pulled the driver's side rear apart. Made sure the caliper bracket was clean and re-seated the shims. Pulled the caliper pins and re-cleaned/re-greased those. I exercised the pistons independently by clamping one and activating the other, then flip-flopping between working the two.
The biggest problem seemed to be the clearance between the pads and the shims. I filed the ends of the metal backing plates on the pads for more clearance with the guide on the bracket. Seems to have solved the problem. Not hot, no smoke, brakes good. Doesn't feel like an anchor is being dragged behind me anymore.
Amazingly, the rotor and pads managed to come out of it all just fine. No damage or warpage. If they were organic pads, I think I would have had the truck go up in flames.
Sorry! No pictures... I was in a rush to fix. It was 15F last night.
You may recall the issue I had with new brakes in the rear... Rotor on rear driver's side was glowing red and smoking at one point. I thought maybe the caliper stuck. Forced ABS activation a few times on the snowy roads. It stopped glowing, but was still getting extremely hot. I had to get to work in the morning, so I just hoped I might burn enough off the new pads to stop the overheat and get me to work and back. I did make it back OK. No fires!
Last night, I pulled the driver's side rear apart. Made sure the caliper bracket was clean and re-seated the shims. Pulled the caliper pins and re-cleaned/re-greased those. I exercised the pistons independently by clamping one and activating the other, then flip-flopping between working the two.
The biggest problem seemed to be the clearance between the pads and the shims. I filed the ends of the metal backing plates on the pads for more clearance with the guide on the bracket. Seems to have solved the problem. Not hot, no smoke, brakes good. Doesn't feel like an anchor is being dragged behind me anymore.
Amazingly, the rotor and pads managed to come out of it all just fine. No damage or warpage. If they were organic pads, I think I would have had the truck go up in flames.
Sorry! No pictures... I was in a rush to fix. It was 15F last night.
What lights did you use for that, were they the puck style? Maybe post a link if you have it. I had done my under hood with LED strips all the way around. And also used them under my doors so when I open my doors they light up the ground, like puddle lights but way more. The ones under my hood had a hard time staying glued on due to it slamming in a downward motion. Eventually I removed those. The ones on the bottoms of my doors are still attached and working after several years.
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
Could apply silicone sealer in spots or applied to the back of the strip... Heat resistant, flexible, amazingly strong hold on things, but still not permanent if you change your mind. That might be an option, if you don't want to redo the whole setup you have in place.
Yeah I did that a few times in the places that the original high strength peel and stick failed. I cleaned with alcohol, and final wipe with a clean dry cloth. It became a constant issue and I decided it wasn’t worth it. Silicone started failing too. Seemed to not be so amazingly strong after all.
MADPINTO08
Member
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- Aug 15, 2021
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AutoZone has the style lights and I basically whatever I mount a damn scratched it up with some 80 grit sandpaper right underneath and use the tape that came with and also some crazy glue and I have no problem at all
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
I used GE silicone to hold a wood panel on the back of our kitchen stove, where it stuck up above the counter top. Couple globs on the back held it for ten years. We sold the stove and removed the wood trim piece. The silicone is still on the stove, along with bits of wood it tore from the back of the board.
But, I get it if what you had wasn't working out for you... I like the lights @MADPINTO08 used! Lights everything up like daylight!
That’s different than gluing two smooth surfaces, especially if one is painted. Plus the hood slamming closed a few hundred times shakes it loose. I’m familiar with silicones, I used them in the glass trade all my life. There are structural versions but they require a primer and there’s a list of different ones to use on different materials along with the different primers. And they’re only commercially available. I just wasn’t really into the underhood lights so much that I wanted to put that much effort into them. I figured I’d get something that I can use a mechanical fastener on. I never got around to it.
clandr1
Full Access Member
Apparently the GMT800 is notoriously reliable and long lasting enough to make it into a trailer for a show that takes place 500 years in the future:
jalopnik.com
Can You Spot The 552-Year-Old Chevy Tahoe In The Trailer For The New Halo Show?
The upcoming Halo Paramount+ series makes a quiet but strong endorsement on the longevity of GMT800 trucks.
jalopnik.com
