What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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clandr1

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I've been dormant for a while, but I'm here for asking another question. I am happy with my 3" lift currently, but my Tahoe is going to end up being a garage queen for a while with all the upcoming work. I want to debut it with a new look at the beginning of next year. I'm changing wheels, tires, retracting side steps, doing all the rust repair, and going higher on the lift. I am hoping to get some feedback from the guys that have 6" lifted Tahoes and what they like/don't like about their set up. Is there pros/cons to a certain brand of lift? Thanks for all the help so far! Definitely looking to keep everyone updated with pictures along the way.

You might be better off starting a new thread in the lifted suspension subforum (link below).

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forums/lifted-supension-z71-4x4.66/
 

Keviebear86

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05Single

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Found these . They look good. Wish I still had the Tahoe :,(

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164860527674

E52D312B-6A37-42AD-91B9-5B343BB95FF0.jpeg
 

Fless

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After getting the occasional "tighten fuel cap" message a few times over the past several months, replaced the vent valve and the purge solenoid. I tested both old ones afterward and the vent valve sticks closed sometimes, so I'm hoping that's the issue with the evap monitor not completing.

Thinking about this, a vent valve that sticks closed would not have caused a leak and, after a drive cycle completes I still get the P0455 code when the CEL comes on. I did clean the filler neck contact area and tried a different gas cap, as well as tighten up the hose clamps on the filler tube. Doing a purge and seal with the Tech 2 still shows a fairly quick decay of the system vacuum, and I can see that the fuel tank pressure sensor is working fine. So next up is pulling the evap canister and testing it for leaks. I will also inspect the o-rings in the evap connections. Looks like the weather should cooperate this weekend.
 

TollKeeper

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Thinking about this, a vent valve that sticks closed would not have caused a leak and, after a drive cycle completes I still get the P0455 code when the CEL comes on. I did clean the filler neck contact area and tried a different gas cap, as well as tighten up the hose clamps on the filler tube. Doing a purge and seal with the Tech 2 still shows a fairly quick decay of the system vacuum, and I can see that the fuel tank pressure sensor is working fine. So next up is pulling the evap canister and testing it for leaks. I will also inspect the o-rings in the evap connections. Looks like the weather should cooperate this weekend.
I was going to also suggest the full pump sealing ring may have deteriorated. But it appears (i think??) your in Colorado, so I doubt it would be a metal corrosion, unless the gasket ring has just deteriorated.
 

clandr1

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Thinking about this, a vent valve that sticks closed would not have caused a leak and, after a drive cycle completes I still get the P0455 code when the CEL comes on. I did clean the filler neck contact area and tried a different gas cap, as well as tighten up the hose clamps on the filler tube. Doing a purge and seal with the Tech 2 still shows a fairly quick decay of the system vacuum, and I can see that the fuel tank pressure sensor is working fine. So next up is pulling the evap canister and testing it for leaks. I will also inspect the o-rings in the evap connections. Looks like the weather should cooperate this weekend.

Can the purge solenoid potentially stick in the open position?
Is the gas pump clicking off multiple times before the tank is full when you're filling up? I expect the answer to be no, but please confirm.
 

Fless

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I was going to also suggest the full pump sealing ring may have deteriorated. But it appears (i think??) your in Colorado, so I doubt it would be a metal corrosion, unless the gasket ring has just deteriorated.

We replaced the fuel pump about two years ago, so I hope that's not it.
 

Fless

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Can the purge solenoid potentially stick in the open position?
Is the gas pump clicking off multiple times before the tank is full when you're filling up? I expect the answer to be no, but please confirm.

It could stick open, but both the new and old purge solenoids test correctly on the bench, and respond to the various commands that can be done with the Tech 2.

And no issues filling up. Hoping the canister has a small crack or some such thing. The vacuum decay isn't instantaneous, it takes 7 to10 seconds to get back to neutral pressure.
 

05Single

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And the description references front and rear placement, halogen, etc., so I think the ad is FUBAR.
The bulb size says HB3 9005 lol
But the lights in the pic are real. Talked to the kid who owns that Tahoe with those lights. He said they were discontinued till @Thatsquishykid717 found these last night when we were sexting each other.
 

clandr1

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It could stick open, but both the new and old purge solenoids test correctly on the bench, and respond to the various commands that can be done with the Tech 2.

And no issues filling up. Hoping the canister has a small crack or some such thing. The vacuum decay isn't instantaneous, it takes 7 to10 seconds to get back to neutral pressure.

Ah, makes sense. I had to replace my vapor/charcoal canister a few months back due to not being able to fill up all the way. I've never had an issue with leaks, so hopefully your canister is just cracked and it's easy to chase down.

Best of luck and keep us posted!
 

Doubeleive

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changed the passenger door window regulator, bought the dorman one, they brought it to the counter box was opened but it had the right part number stamped on it so I went ahead and took it and later discovered some ****** had flipped the glass clamps around upside down and backwards, made it confusing as hell at first, made it seem like it was the one for the drivers side but it wasn't. maybe they bought the wrong one and tried to make it work? or some chyna man is laughing his ass off, who knows, fixed and working
 

Rocket Man

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I drove across town yesterday to pick up some shingles for a side job I’m doing. It was 95 outside and the ac was so cold it was too much so I turned it off for a minute and when I turned it back on it only worked for a couple minutes and then started blowing hot air. It was hotter than the outside air. I was thinking maybe the blend door failed. The ac light was on like it was working. Today I tried it again and same thing. All indicators show it’s working but it’s blowing some hot ass air. Looked under the hood and there’s no sign of the ac belt. I guess it jumped ship somewhere on the freeway.
 

iamdub

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I drove across town yesterday to pick up some shingles for a side job I’m doing. It was 95 outside and the ac was so cold it was too much so I turned it off for a minute and when I turned it back on it only worked for a couple minutes and then started blowing hot air. It was hotter than the outside air. I was thinking maybe the blend door failed. The ac light was on like it was working. Today I tried it again and same thing. All indicators show it’s working but it’s blowing some hot ass air. Looked under the hood and there’s no sign of the ac belt. I guess it jumped ship somewhere on the freeway.

Check the grooves in the pulleys for a rock or something and enjoy being able to install the belt in seconds with a 3/8" ratchet instead of some newfangled tool to roll the belt on.
 

Rocket Man

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I had a bunch of ac belt issues with the supercharger on my silverado. Switched to a NNBS stretch fit belt which eliminates the ac tension and the problems went away. Need to buy the stretch belt tool tho it's kinda a pain
That’s the first issue in the 3 years or so that I’ve had the blower. I think the belt is about that old. I ordered the Gates HD version.
 

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