What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Tonyrodz]

Changed the quick connect "Y" piece, its brand new and has a pinhole leak... WTF!!! LOLView attachment 251265


Gave the Denali a wash, then drove to a gravel parking lot for a picture... not very smart. LolView attachment 251264 View attachment 251263

Looks good. Is that y a Dorman part?

 

[DenaliReyes]

Looks good. Is that y a Dorman part?

Yes it is, are they common for that? After a while it clogged up and stopped leaking.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Yes it is, are they common for that? After a while it clogged up and stopped leaking.

Consensus about Dorman's parts is 50/50--with some parts being an absolute "NOT". Are you brave enough to leave it on since it stopped leaking? If it was me I'd change it. You know what'll happen--locally it'll be great, no overheating, no leaking, but as soon as you go on the highway on a trip the ***** will break! Causing you to get stranded. Me personally--I'd change it--while you can.

 

[Bear77]

Changed the quick connect "Y" piece, its brand new and has a pinhole leak... WTF!!! LOLView attachment 251265


Gave the Denali a wash, then drove to a gravel parking lot for a picture... not very smart. LolView attachment 251264 View attachment 251263

Like the truck, not the leaking “y” part!


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[DenaliReyes]

Consensus about Dorman's parts is 50/50--with some parts being an absolute "NOT". Are you brave enough to leave it on since it stopped leaking? If it was me I'd change it. You know what'll happen--locally it'll be great, no overheating, no leaking, but as soon as you go on the highway on a trip the ***** will break! Causing you to get stranded. Me personally--I'd change it--while you can.

Definitely will, i forgot to change the post it's not the "Y" it's the connector to it, which I also put new. Will change it, wonder of Oreillys will change it , since I just bout it this weekend. Either way it's coming off.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Definitely will, i forgot to change the post it's not the "Y" it's the connector to it, which I also put new. Will change it, wonder of Oreillys will change it , since I just bout it this weekend. Either way it's coming off.

They should swap it out np.

 

[Rocket Man]

Yes it is, are they common for that? After a while it clogged up and stopped leaking.

Those Dormans Y's are known to fail fairly quickly and leave you screwed on the side of the road. They are bad enough that they have singlehandedly made replacing the Y fittings a topic of great debate and some people go to the extreme of putting in expensive metal Y's. The OEM ACdelco parts are known to last 150k + miles. I would replace them with the real deal so you don't need to worry again. The GM part numbers are 15055342, 15055343. Amazon or Ebay carries them. Or take your chances with the Dorman but you have been warned!

 

[Redfire Metallic]

Got these 22” off a Sierra Denali recently. Truck looks wayyyyy better with these compared to the stock 17s.

 

[Rocket Man]

Got these 22” off a Sierra Denali recently. Truck looks wayyyyy better with these compared to the stock 17s.

View attachment 251285

Agreed. I hate chrome and those look good on there even to me.

 

[Bear77]

Agreed. I hate chrome and those look good on there even to me.

This comment alone should say a lot about how nice it looks!


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[iamdub]

Changed the quick connect "Y" piece, its brand new and has a pinhole leak... WTF!!! LOL

Those Dormans Y's are known to fail fairly quickly and leave you screwed on the side of the road. They are bad enough that they have singlehandedly made replacing the Y fittings a topic of great debate and some people go to the extreme of putting in expensive metal Y's. The OEM ACdelco parts are known to last 150k + miles. I would replace them with the real deal so you don't need to worry again. The GM part numbers are 15055342, 15055343. Amazon or Ebay carries them. Or take your chances with the Dorman but you have been warned!

I agree with going back with OEM. Or, for $10 and $5 more (respectively), you can get aluminum ones: https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/best-sellers/products/traditional-hose-tee

 

[Rocket Man]

I agree with going back with OEM. Or, for $10 and $5 more (respectively), you can get aluminum ones: https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/best-sellers/products/traditional-hose-tee

Don’t forget to mention that in order to install those, you need to use a whole lot of clamps in an area that difficult to work in. I know you did yours with your engine out but if it’s me, no way am I going to mess with clamps back there. That’s part of the reason for the quick connects. Nobody seems to mention that’s it’s difficult to install metal Y’s with 6-8 clamps in a tight spot, when the OEM Y’s just snap on. Sorry, not trying to cause trouble but I think people need to know there’s more to consider with the alternative.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Finally came in.

Now I need lugs and bolts--and a tap set--gotta drill holes in the rims.

 

[iamdub]

Don’t forget to mention that in order to install those, you need to use a whole lot of clamps in an area that difficult to work in. I know you did yours with your engine out but if it’s me, no way am I going to mess with clamps back there. That’s part of the reason for the quick connects. Nobody seems to mention that’s it’s difficult to install metal Y’s with 6-8 clamps in a tight spot, when the OEM Y’s just snap on. Sorry, not trying to cause trouble but I think people need to know there’s more to consider with the alternative.

No trouble, it's a valid point. It was so easy for me with the engine out that I didn't even think of the actual installation with clamps aspect.

My retort to that is to use OEM style spring clamps since they can be reached from the front with long needle-nosed pliers. So, if you were a champ at the game of Operation, you got this...

I agree that the OEM push-to-connect fittings are easy and should last long enough for you to forget you even changed them. It's just that having metal fittings gives me a sense of permanence and makes me tingle in the places that make me giggle.

 

[Tonyrodz]

No trouble, it's a valid point. It was so easy for me with the engine out that I didn't even think of the actual installation with clamps aspect.

My retort to that is to use OEM style spring clamps since they can be reached from the front with long needle-nosed pliers. So, if you were a champ at the game of Operation, you got this...

I agree that the OEM push-to-connect fittings are easy and should last long enough for you to forget you even changed them. It's just that having metal fittings gives me a sense of permanence and makes me tingle in the places that make me giggle.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Bad news for my buddies Denali. Hopefully he shut it off before the crank or block were damaged.
Might end up taking a trip to Summit in ATL this weekend and pick up a short block to slap his prc heads on.

Still hoping the cam is good

 

[Tonyrodz]

Bad news for my buddies Denali. Hopefully he shut it off before the crank or block were damaged.
Might end up taking a trip to Summit in ATL this weekend and pick up a short block to slap his prc heads on.

Still hoping the cam is good

View attachment 251328 View attachment 251329

No like!!! DAYYYUMMM that's alot of shrapnel. That totally sux. Do you think the cam could've gotten away unscathed?

 

[Bear77]

I was going to say that was the cleanest oil pan I saw until the second pic showed up. Hope you can salvage most of it


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[Dantheman1540]

No like!!! DAYYYUMMM that's alot of shrapnel. That totally sux. Do you think the cam could've gotten away unscathed?

I tell u wut we gunna find out!

I was going to say that was the cleanest oil pan I saw until the second pic showed up. Hope you can salvage most of it
.

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Never heard any knocking and never lost full OP so we are hopeful. Maybe just a single spun bearing

If I feel like it tomorrow I might have it out and apart.

 

[Sam Harris]

Those Dormans Y's are known to fail fairly quickly and leave you screwed on the side of the road. They are bad enough that they have singlehandedly made replacing the Y fittings a topic of great debate and some people go to the extreme of putting in expensive metal Y's. The OEM ACdelco parts are known to last 150k + miles. I would replace them with the real deal so you don't need to worry again. The GM part numbers are 15055342, 15055343. Amazon or Ebay carries them. Or take your chances with the Dorman but you have been warned!

Ordering these now. I plan to replace them before I run into an issue. 206k on the motor and pretty sure they’ve never been done.