What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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MINIz guy

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That's what I'm talking about- an oil filter gasket that stays on the engine and eventually needs a half a day to change instead of one that comes on the oil filter itself so it gets replaced every time the filter gets changed like a normal vehicle. They build them so they make a fortune on service.

I have a 2011 328i and change the gasket every time I change the filter. It is included with the $8 Mann filters I buy off Amazon. Either the dealership is blowing smoke where the sun doesn't shine or it is being misnamed.

Best part about that BMW's oil change? The filter is on the top of the motor... It is the easiest and cleanest oil change I have ever done.

That's crazy about the X6, though!

Whoops, I can see the confusion. The oil filter cartridge comes with an o-ring for the cap, which gets replaced every time. The oil filter housing has a gasket, which is prone to leaking over time. That requires pulling the intake manifold on the X6. On other BMWs, like my E36, it only requires pulling the alternator and airbox.

It's true though, I don't think this leak exists on the Tahoe.
 

TheAutumnWind

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My "spare" BMW (really the autocross/track car) is similar. Amazing when it works fine, but it recently went through 2 alternators in 200 miles. Seems like this latest is working fine.

I just did the oil filter gasket on my mother's X6 with an N55 motor. I get why the cost is so high, since the book calls to remove the intake manifold. In reality, you loosen it and pull it off half the studs to get to the last oil filter housing bolt. Took me around 3 hours, and $30, to do it my first time around.

Holy carp 3 hours to change oil filter? My vehicles take @ most a few minutes if i overtightened...
 

TheAutumnWind

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Whoops, I can see the confusion. The oil filter cartridge comes with an o-ring for the cap, which gets replaced every time. The oil filter housing has a gasket, which is prone to leaking over time. That requires pulling the intake manifold on the X6. On other BMWs, like my E36, it only requires pulling the alternator and airbox.

It's true though, I don't think this leak exists on the Tahoe.
Oic that is different.
 

Rocket Man

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Whoops, I can see the confusion. The oil filter cartridge comes with an o-ring for the cap, which gets replaced every time. The oil filter housing has a gasket, which is prone to leaking over time. That requires pulling the intake manifold on the X6. On other BMWs, like my E36, it only requires pulling the alternator and airbox.

It's true though, I don't think this leak exists on the Tahoe.
Yeah no extra gasket on a Tahoe or Yukon, the filter doesn't have an oil filter housing. That would be a German idea, to have a housing that the oil filter attaches to so they can make things more complicated. That way they have something else for the service departments to fix. I have a friend who was a mechanic specializing in German cars and he said that's what they do on purpose in order to make more money on service.
 

bottomline2000

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Got to finally road trip my truck with the 6.0 and 4l80 and I was surprised to see 15mpg highway cruising 75mph.. I still have the unlock issue with no throttle input but it's easy to manage on the highway..just go faster until u it a hill lol.

I don't think 4.11 gears are gonna work out for me since I'm turning 2100 rpm now with 3.42 gears and that is just above where my cam starts making power. The truck is just pulling too hard at higher rpm and seems like fuel mileage would take a nose dive.

would like to know if anyone else is running a similar combo and their mileage. My concern was always having decent hwy range and this is acceptable to me.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
 

Knope

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I'll never have another German car for just that reason. They're so over-engineered that they're impossible to work on so it costs a fortune for basic repairs. Ridiculous.
I can't say that I'll never own another one, but I'm definitely looking at more reliable brands like Lexus a little more closely. My mom's 2009 RX350 has 249k and never a problem. I'd take an is350 in a heartbeat.
 

Doubeleive

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Interesting as before I had them hooked up only one way where the tab lines up and clips in and they worked. I'll try and reverse them this week.
The 880 fog plugs have a notch on both sides if the plug so there's no one way to plug them in like the 9006s.
next time you go to play with the lights just take a electrical meter and check positive negative and mark or wrap some electrical tape around the positive wire so there's no confusion in the future, sometimes GM likes to play electrical roulette and one side may be positive in the same position and negative on the other because it doesn't matter with a standard bulb, I ran HIDs for 10+ years eventually it will take a toll on the fuse box I started out with just upping the fuse amps but they will still melt and/or make burn marks in the fuse box, I ended up running a (fused) power wire straight from the battery to a relay/ballast/headlight connector it gives the ballast full power and takes the strain off the fuse box, if you put a relay in be sure it is a sealed relay as the basic relays are not waterproof, you can find them online and just look at the relay real good if the backside has a glossy looking finish it is sealed if it has a thin space around the corner edges then it is not sealed as they are not usually specified as sealed or not, anyway just my .02 for dealing with HID's

sealed.jpg
 

Rocket Man

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next time you go to play with the lights just take a electrical meter and check positive negative and mark or wrap some electrical tape around the positive wire so there's no confusion in the future, sometimes GM likes to play electrical roulette and one side may be positive in the same position and negative on the other because it doesn't matter with a standard bulb, I ran HIDs for 10+ years eventually it will take a toll on the fuse box I started out with just upping the fuse amps but they will still melt and/or make burn marks in the fuse box, I ended up running a (fused) power wire straight from the battery to a relay/ballast/headlight connector it gives the ballast full power and takes the strain off the fuse box, if you put a relay in be sure it is a sealed relay as the basic relays are not waterproof, you can find them online and just look at the relay real good if the backside has a glossy looking finish it is sealed if it has a thin space around the corner edges then it is not sealed as they are not usually specified as sealed or not, anyway just my .02 for dealing with HID's

View attachment 188102
If you're blowing a fuse it's never a good idea to " up the fuse amps" . The fuse rating is based on the smallest wire gauge in that circuit so even if you don't see burn marks in the fuse box or near the fuse box, you at be melting wires in places you can't even see.
 

Doubeleive

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If you're blowing a fuse it's never a good idea to " up the fuse amps" . The fuse rating is based on the smallest wire gauge in that circuit so even if you don't see burn marks in the fuse box or near the fuse box, you at be melting wires in places you can't even see.
ya lol that's what happens when you add a HID ballast to a system that was never designed for one and just upp the fuse amps instead, it works for a while but eventually....
 

Rocket Man

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ya lol that's what happens when you add a HID ballast to a system that was never designed for one and just upp the fuse amps instead, it works for a while but eventually....
I've never had a problem but if I blow a fuse I'll install relays for sure before putting a bigger fuse in. I've checked and my wiring at the ballasts doesn't get hot, just a little warm. Some ballasts are terribly inefficient and draw a lot of current. I've seen what happens with a bigger fuse and the same size wiring and it can be a mess.
 

ScottyBoy

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I've never had a problem but if I blow a fuse I'll install relays for sure before putting a bigger fuse in. I've checked and my wiring at the ballasts doesn't get hot, just a little warm. Some ballasts are terribly inefficient and draw a lot of current. I've seen what happens with a bigger fuse and the same size wiring and it can be a mess.

I have had my HIDs on my Burban since 2009 and they are on the factory wiring harness with zero problems. The factory headlights are already on a relay. Granted, the wiring IS pretty thin but at least it has a dedicated relay and fuse on it. As a matter of fact, each side is on it's own fuse, not just the headlights in general. If you were to have problems blowing fuses, then I agree, I would not just put a bigger fuse in. I would get a headlight relay harness with thicker gauge wiring before using a bigger fuse. If you have two identical ballasts on a 10 amp fuse but one has 12 gauge power wire and the other has 18 gauge power wire, the one with 18 gauge is likely to blow the fuse. But even with thicker wiring, if you are still blowing fuses, I would think that something is wrong with the ballast. I had one of mine fog light ballasts do that a year ago. My passenger side was blowing the fuse a few minutes after lighting up and getting warm. Now my foglights are not on factory wiring, I made a harness myself since my truck never had fogs from the factory. I could have tried thicker wiring or a bigger fuse, but since I had two spare ballasts that I yanked off my wife's Altima after she wrecked it, I swapped the ballast. Once I swapped out the ballast, it didn't blow the fuse anymore, so I tossed my ballast in the trash.
 

Bombsquad85

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Didn't do anything to my 01 tahoe but I did buy an 05 Denali! Pretty happy. It has exactly 100k on it (which is 150k less than the tahoe!) Needs. Little here and there. It came with 22s navigation and headrest DVD players. Best part is that 6L and it's clean. My only question is. Are tahoe and Yukon seats the same. I want to swap seat bottom motor due to the Yukon not adjusting up. And is it an easy fix if everything in the gauge cluster works minus the gear shift indicator?
 

TwiztidPixel

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Installed a new IACV, fixed my fluctuating idle issue immediately, super stoked about that.

Also installed Powerstop rotors and Wearever Platinum Pro pads on the rear. This may seem like deja vu- I did the same on the front a week or so ago. The rear brakes were already done about a year ago so I was going to wait. I hated the non-matching situation though.

rotor_wheel_shot (2).jpg

Yum. :hitit:
 

Tonyrodz

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Didn't do anything to my 01 tahoe but I did buy an 05 Denali! Pretty happy. It has exactly 100k on it (which is 150k less than the tahoe!) Needs. Little here and there. It came with 22s navigation and headrest DVD players. Best part is that 6L and it's clean. My only question is. Are tahoe and Yukon seats the same. I want to swap seat bottom motor due to the Yukon not adjusting up. And is it an easy fix if everything in the gauge cluster works minus the gear shift indicator?
What year is your Tahoe?
Seat motors should be the same. I know you need to reflow the solder connections for the PRNDL. Hopefully someone will chime in and be more specific.
 

ScottyBoy

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I didn't exactly do anything to my truck this weekend, but I did get something for it. I drove almost two hours yesterday to go to a "You-Pull-it" junkyard that I have never been to before. I went because they had plenty of 00-06 NBS trucks and SUVs listed in their inventory, and BOY DID I RACK UP!!!!
IMG_20171203_171731314.jpg
 

Tonyrodz

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I didn't exactly do anything to my truck this weekend, but I did get something for it. I drove almost two hours yesterday to go to a "You-Pull-it" junkyard that I have never been to before. I went because they had plenty of 00-06 NBS trucks and SUVs listed in their inventory, and BOY DID I RACK UP!!!!View attachment 188115
Oh boy! Did they have any HD hoods?
 

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