Valve cover gasket write up?

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Rocket Man

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So I’m surprised at this maintenance item. I thought it was gonna be way harder than it actually was. The hardest part was the grommets going back on the bolts and it was fairly easy. So as it turns out, the valve covers just came right off once the bolts were off. I literally didn’t have to apply any force at all to take them off. So apparently they were loose and that could have been why they were leaking. The gaskets actually didn’t look bad. But I was already in there so new gaskets went it. Lol. Passenger side was smooth, but I broke a bolt on the driver’s side trying to make sure it was tightened down enough:banghead:. I was so irritated. I spent the late afternoon trying to find a replacement bolt, to no avail. But I gotta try the two other shops first thing in the so hopefully I can put it back together and get it done with. Proud of myself for tackling this one. But pissed because it should have been done already. Lol
The torque spec for those bolts is really low and it’s for a reason. You should not come anywhere near breaking them. Too tight can be as bad as too loose Chase. Keep an eye for leaks and cracks in the aluminum valve covers. 106 in/ lbs is the spec, less than 9 ft lbs.
 
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adventurenali92

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And of course no where in big bear has the right size bolts to replace them. Stupid ******* big bear. I’m so irritated right now. I had to drive down again to hit stagecoach for the final day, and picked a slightly shorter bolt and slightly longer bolt thats the same diameter, from a Lowe’s, hoping they might do the trick. But I have a feeling they won’t, I maybe stuck driving off the mountain again tomorrow morning to get to a stupid dealership :banghead:
 

iamdub

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And of course no where in big bear has the right size bolts to replace them. Stupid ******* big bear. I’m so irritated right now. I had to drive down again to hit stagecoach for the final day, and picked a slightly shorter bolt and slightly longer bolt thats the same diameter, from a Lowe’s, hoping they might do the trick. But I have a feeling they won’t, I maybe stuck driving off the mountain again tomorrow morning to get to a stupid dealership :banghead:

No salvage yards around you? As many of these motors that are out there and used in so many projects, surely someone has a few junkers they could pull one from. Maybe try a speed shop to see if they have anything they may be trashing?
 

Rocket Man

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And of course no where in big bear has the right size bolts to replace them. Stupid ******* big bear. I’m so irritated right now. I had to drive down again to hit stagecoach for the final day, and picked a slightly shorter bolt and slightly longer bolt thats the same diameter, from a Lowe’s, hoping they might do the trick. But I have a feeling they won’t, I maybe stuck driving off the mountain again tomorrow morning to get to a stupid dealership :banghead:
Those aren’t normal bolts that you can pick up at a hardware store, you need to get them from a dealer or wrecking yard buddy.
 
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adventurenali92

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No salvage yards around you? As many of these motors that are out there and used in so many projects, surely someone has a few junkers they could pull one from. Maybe try a speed shop to see if they have anything they may be trashing?
Unfortunately the wrecking yards are as close as the dealerships. An hour away at the base of the mountain in the inland empire. And no speed shops up here. Just standard mechanic shops.
 

Tonyrodz

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Unfortunately the wrecking yards are as close as the dealerships. An hour away at the base of the mountain in the inland empire. And no speed shops up here. Just standard mechanic shops.
I bet a mechanic shop might have a spare laying around--especially if it's a mom n pop shop.
 

iamdub

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If it took half a grunt (or teeth clinch- whichever you do) to break the bolt free when removing it, it'll take 10% less of that same grunt or teeth clinch to restore it to it's proper torque. You'll learn it.
 
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adventurenali92

adventurenali92

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If it took half a grunt (or teeth clinch- whichever you do) to break the bolt free when removing it, it'll take 10% less of that same grunt or teeth clinch to restore it to it's proper torque. You'll learn it.
For the sake of this job actually not being difficult, none of the bolts were difficult to remove. But that also means everything was loose and I think that’s why it was leaking oil.
 
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adventurenali92

adventurenali92

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Well two broken bolts, a trip to the Chevy dealership in the high desert, and torque wrench from harbor freight later, my valve covers are back on the way should be with new gaskets, all bolts in to the right spec, and no leak so far. Glad to have it done but damn.... that was annoying.
 
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HiHoeSilver

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Well two broken bolts, a trip to the Chevy dealership in the high desert, and torque wrench from harbor freight later, my valve covers are back on the way should be with new gaskets, all bolts in to the right spec, and no leak so far. Half to have it done but damn.... that was annoying.

Attaboy.
 

Tonyrodz

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Well two broken bolts, a trip to the Chevy dealership in the high desert, and torque wrench from harbor freight later, my valve covers are back on the way should be with new gaskets, all bolts in to the right spec, and no leak so far. Half to have it done but damn.... that was annoying.
I'd give it a week or so, then recheck the torque on the bolts.
 

Rocket Man

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Well two broken bolts, a trip to the Chevy dealership in the high desert, and torque wrench from harbor freight later, my valve covers are back on the way should be with new gaskets, all bolts in to the right spec, and no leak so far. Half to have it done but damn.... that was annoying.
Feels good to know it’s done right though, and you did it yourself so you KNOW it’s right.
 

iamdub

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For the sake of this job actually not being difficult, none of the bolts were difficult to remove. But that also means everything was loose and I think that’s why it was leaking oil.

The gaskets are squashed, which is how they work, and they lose their elasticity from the years of heat cycles. They may even shrink a little. This relieves tension on the bolts, making them slightly loose. Imagine tightening down a bolt with a washer under the head, then removing that washer. The bolt would then be loose and could be tightened down more the thickness of that washer. Same effect with your gaskets, only re-torquing the bolts isn't always a reliable solution because the gasket material isn't as pliable. It doesn't squish any more cuz it's already squashed.

Glad you finally squashed this project. You now have somewhat intimate knowledge of your motor, a new tool and am wiser for the wear.



... I tried, but couldn't come up with any other ways to use "squash" and "squish".



Squish.

Squash.

Squished.

Squashed.
 

89Suburban

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You don’t need to do anything with it, just leave it in. It just twists out if you do want to. And I don’t see how they could leak except maybe right where they twist in. There’s an o ring but you can’t get it separate. You might find one that works though at an auto parts or hardware store.

This weekend I cleaned all the shit off it and it was definitely loose on an angle and the o-ring was sticking out the top. So I cleaned it up and pushed it back in and put silicon adhesive on it just to see of it was the source of one of my leaks. This was after a day of driving, seems nice and dry now. This is only temporary until I can afford new covers and gaskets and filler neck.



IMG_0909.JPG
 

iamdub

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This weekend I cleaned all the shit off it and it was definitely loose on an angle and the o-ring was sticking out the top. So I cleaned it up and pushed it back in and put silicon adhesive on it just to see of it was the source of one of my leaks. This was after a day of driving, seems nice and dry now. This is only temporary until I can afford new covers and gaskets and filler neck.



View attachment 225100

Nice cream pie.
 

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