TxVet33
Full Access Member
I"m retired, I got time!!!! Keep pushing!Hmm, flagged for ****** content.
Where might one find a source that could get this to me faster than ebay?
I need it for automotive reasons.
UPR Catch Can w/CSS
- Thread starter Tk59194
- Start date
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TxVet33
Full Access Member
TeamRXP who sells the kit, mentioned above. Call themHmm, flagged for ****** content.
Where might one find a source that could get this to me faster than ebay?
I need it for automotive reasons.
TxVet33
Full Access Member
keep your **** plug out of this convo!!!Jeez, it was just an **** plug joke.
TxVet33
Full Access Member
I have a pile of quick-connect fittings and will sell/ship them to you cheap if you want em. Been running the UPR w/ccs on the 6.2 Yukon for months now and it's a high quality.
You'll want to carry a 3/4" wrench in your truck should you need to remove your oil cap - no more doing that by hand. Equally important is to make certain the oil cap replacement breather is threaded snug correctly. When removing the oil cap breather; the lower oil cap at the bottom of the collar going to the block almost always comes out with it. Not a huge deal as it holds a funnel better but might be tricky if you bring your vehicle to someplace to get an oil change - they may not know what they're looking at or not get the caps sealed properly.
The can also mounts on your brake booster which inherently adds a slight vibration to the gas pedal. Not certain that's the cause but I'll be playing around with it more and see if I can alleviate it. You'll also want to make sure to use a blue thread-locker on the can mounting hardware or you can expect it to loosen up. It's also a pain to empty and you need to be careful not to cross-thread the canister or thread it too tight or you'll ruin the o-ring. I'm sure the o-ring will not last long after multiple empties. Mine came with a drain spigot on the bottom but not certain how functional it is as you can't mount a tube. Overall it seems to work but could use some updates. DONT expect to reach UPR by phone or e-mail for any help. Terribly hard to get a hold of them and their resellers aren't real knowledgeable either. When I tried purchasing just the CSS they had no clue what that is or what to do. UPR tried sending me the part and ended up sending me another catch-can for a Ford.
You'll want to carry a 3/4" wrench in your truck should you need to remove your oil cap - no more doing that by hand. Equally important is to make certain the oil cap replacement breather is threaded snug correctly. When removing the oil cap breather; the lower oil cap at the bottom of the collar going to the block almost always comes out with it. Not a huge deal as it holds a funnel better but might be tricky if you bring your vehicle to someplace to get an oil change - they may not know what they're looking at or not get the caps sealed properly.
The can also mounts on your brake booster which inherently adds a slight vibration to the gas pedal. Not certain that's the cause but I'll be playing around with it more and see if I can alleviate it. You'll also want to make sure to use a blue thread-locker on the can mounting hardware or you can expect it to loosen up. It's also a pain to empty and you need to be careful not to cross-thread the canister or thread it too tight or you'll ruin the o-ring. I'm sure the o-ring will not last long after multiple empties. Mine came with a drain spigot on the bottom but not certain how functional it is as you can't mount a tube. Overall it seems to work but could use some updates. DONT expect to reach UPR by phone or e-mail for any help. Terribly hard to get a hold of them and their resellers aren't real knowledgeable either. When I tried purchasing just the CSS they had no clue what that is or what to do. UPR tried sending me the part and ended up sending me another catch-can for a Ford.
Might want to go with an Elite Engineering E2 or E2-x, it has a nice ball valve drain and you don’t need a wrench to remove the CSS to add oil. The mount is real solid too. Plus their customer service is awesome.
TxVet33
Full Access Member
I looked at E2-X as well and they have the same ball-valve spigot that UPR uses and they don't use quick connects on the hoses. Seems like it may be a much more affordable setup though. I like how the oil threading is on the clean side separator.
Hobert
Full Access Member
Clean side separator handles Wide Open Throttle situations, helps mostly on boosted engines. I have a CSS can on my stock 5.3 and it hasn't trapped anything. Here is a detailed overview of what the CSS and Dirty side cans do.
The Elite Engineering CSS doesn’t “trap” anything that you could see, as in it has no reservoir to empty because when WOT is no longer present, the small amount that it is holding releases back into the passenger side through the oil fill tube. Here’s a description of how it works per Elite Engineering’s website. I’m not sure which one that’s detailed in that video but I’ve never seen one like that. Is that what UPR ‘s does? Seems kinda over complicated. Quote:
Elite Engineering, the leader in Oil PCV Catch Can solutions announces the latest addition to their proven line of oil separating Catch Cans with the "Elite Clean Side solution".
The Clean-side solution addresses that small amount of oil vapor that enters the intake air charge upstream of the throttle body during WOT operation when the intake manifold vacuum is not present.
The Clean-side solution allows 100% MAF metered air entry while trapping the oil during wide open throttle operation and allowing it to return back into the valve cover as soon as the throttle is lifted.
Simply installs as a direct replacement for your stock Oil Fill Cap allowing you to delete and replace the stock OEM hose.
At 1/2 the cost of the plastic hollow GM unit, our aluminum clean-side separator incorporates an internal coalescing material. Simply unscrew the top for a quick inspection or cleaning.
Available in the most popular color Black, other GM colors are coming soon!
This is a direct replacement for your stock Oil Fill Cap. Comes with vacuum caps and fittings if needed to connect to your intake air inlet tube.
Models for both the V8 AND V6 GM engines.
Although app. 90-95% of the oil ingestion via the intake air charge enters via the "Dirty" or "foul" side of the PCV system, the other 5-10% enter via back flow through the factory "clean" or "fresh" side tube. This occurs mainly when accelerating or at wide open throttle when intake manifold vacuum drops to zero and crankcase pressure is allowed to build. This pressure will seek the path of least resistance, which is backwards flowing into the intake air bridge assembly bringing in oil mist and other contaminants into the intake air charge. While this will not cause severe issue with a port injection daily driven engine, it will cause detonation and reduced power and fuel economy, and in a performance engine, especially forced induction, this detonation is detrimental to power and the resulting knock retard is a negative tuners and owners should avoid, especially if the engine is run hard for extended periods such as road racing, drag racing, or aggressive driving period.
With a direct injection engine, this contributes to the intake valve coking issues all DI engines experience.
The Elite clean side separator is similar to the GM 1LE plastic unit in function, retaining a emissions compliant close system, but is superior in several ways. #1, it is made of billet 6061 T6 aircraft grade aluminum unlike the plastic GM unit that may break if used in sub-freezing temperatures. (the Elite unit can safely be used in all temperatures. It also contains stainless steel coalescing media in the separation chamber to trap and retain the oil for the periods of low or no intake manifold vacuum VS the GM unit being a simple empty chamber. This allows most of the oil to be trapped VS a smaller percentage, and also returns it to the valve cover as soon as vacuum returns during deceleration, idle, or cruise.
If you have a catch can with only a single evacuation suction source, this is an absolute must. If you are using the E2 or E2-X with dual outlets and check valves that utilizes 2 separate evacuation suction sources, then this is beneficial to trap the small amount of oil that came back-flow during the brief period of the checkvalves closing and opening to always default to the strongest suction source.
No matter what brand catchcan you run, the Elite billet Cleanside Separator is a benefit.
With the vented breather, cans, and tanks that break the closed PCV system giving grounds to void your warranty as well as being illegal for street use in all 50 States, this is a very affordable solution (app. 1/2 the price of the GM plastic unit) that retains an emissions compliant closed system and accomplishes all a breather does and more.
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