Trucool 40k install

[SnowDrifter]

Want to put one on.

I've seen a few methods that involve cutting the stock lines, re positioning them, then reconnecting with some compression fittings. It works, but not something I want to do, particularly since I just replaced my trans cooler lines a few thousand miles ago.

So what I'm trying to get to, before I start ordering parts, is an appropriate way to install it without modifying the existing cooler lines. Is there an effective way to put a flex hose on the stock lines so they can be connected? I'm weary of just cramming a soft hose over stock lines and securing with a clamp since they're not really barbed, just bumped

p.s. would I be correct in assuming the cooler is not pressurized beyond what's required for fluid flow?

 

[randeez]

The "kit" from pt.net comes with mounting brackets (top and bottom), the quick connect fittings that thread into the 40k to use the factory quick connects on the stock hoses, and a compression fitting for one of the lines- you just cut it with a tubing cutter, rotate 180*, and put it back together with the compression fitting.

 

[SnowDrifter]

The "kit" from pt.net comes with mounting brackets (top and bottom), the quick connect fittings that thread into the 40k to use the factory quick connects on the stock hoses, and a compression fitting for one of the lines- you just cut it with a tubing cutter, rotate 180*, and put it back together with the compression fitting.

How's this for a long reply? LOL

Got busy and forgot to check back in.

Thanks for the link. Looks like exactly what I'm looking for! Just need to run out and check my radiator bracket. Hope it's bolted in

 

[corvette744]

Were is this kit i cant find pt.net

 

[randeez]

How's this for a long reply? LOL

Got busy and forgot to check back in.

Thanks for the link. Looks like exactly what I'm looking for! Just need to run out and check my radiator bracket. Hope it's bolted in

mine was welded...only takes a second knock it off with a grinder. not sure if i used a self tapper to attach the bracket though

 

[randeez]

Were is this kit i cant find pt.net

not sure what the vendor rules/link are here. keep it quiet
https://www.performancetrucks.net/f...nstall-kit-brackets-fittings-hardware-508374/

 

[SnowDrifter]

mine was welded...only takes a second knock it off with a grinder. not sure if i used a self tapper to attach the bracket though

Just checked mine. Screwed in. Easy easy

Will order parts this weekend probably. Want to mentally chew on it for a bit

 

[Doubeleive]

well if a hose clamp worked for decades and decades then it will still work today, there is not that much pressure in a transmission to ever worry about it, I used the fittings and clamps and brackets that are supplied with the kit and I doubt I will ever have to even bat an eye at it. the only thing I added that didn't come with the true cool was (4) 1" stand offs because otherwise it would sit flush metal to metal. you will want to move your ambient temp sensor to the side otherwise it's going to tell you it's 120+DEG outside



**edit on the nbs you might not have to move the temp sensor I think it is lower on the frame than it is on the nnbs, but just something to keep in mind

 

[SnowDrifter]

Parts ordered

 

[97audia4]

I forget the part number but it can be found at napa to use the stock lines.

 

[trailblazer]

I'm doing a similar install right now. Bought the Tru-Cool Max 4921 kit that includes the cold-weather bypass valve for $108 on eBay. This is a great deal as it is usually $160 around the internet. I also purchased 25' of Derale 13017 3/8" transmission hose , two Russell -6 AN 45 degree fittings, a 6L80E transmission adapter with AN fittings plus a gasket, and two Hayden 397 adapters for the radiator. I'll snap some photos and post them here soon.

***UPDATE*** I did not use the adapter with AN fittings nor the Russell -6 AN 45 degree fittings. See my posting below for photos.

 

[Sam Harris]

I want to do this, but don't have a factory cooler. How hard is it to add the Trucool, when there's no factory unit?

 

[SnowDrifter]

I want to do this, but don't have a factory cooler. How hard is it to add the Trucool, when there's no factory unit?

You should still have a radiator passthrough

Grab the lines for a unit w/ the external. The kit I used came from PT - basically you cut the passenger side line, rotate it 180 degrees, the secure back in place with a compression fitting. Bolt the bracket in, put your ambient temp sensor in, then bolt the cooler and hook the lines up. It's a super quick install. ~1-1.5hr. That being said I think the return line is different so you might have to really get under the truck and actually replace the lines vs. just an addition. Might be worth entertaining making some AN lines. How you want to do it is up to you but the plumbing is as follows: Trans->radiator->cooler->trans. Some folks bypass the radiator passthrough. I didn't. It's largely personal choice, the tradeoff being performance in cold weather vs. chance of radiator passthrough failing and injecting coolant into the trans. I just did my lines, so I'm leaving them as is. If anything should come up with them in the future, I'd probably bypass the rad passthrough and install an oil thermostat.

You might need some of the snap on screw clip things for it as well. Auto parts store should have them. I did mine in the o'reilly's parking lot. Easy insurance if something doesn't go as expected. You're already at the parts store!

 

[trailblazer]

I planned this project out so I could hit many birds with one stone. The driving factor was the fact that my transmission cooler lines were rusted very bad. I read how it is a real pain in the *** to install the OEM tubes so I opted to replace everything with new high-temperature rated rubber hose. I also pulled the pan and replaced the filter.

This took me about four hours total. I removed the front bumper-grille assembly which only really takes about five minutes. The Tru-Cool kit comes with mounting hardware which you can see in the photos. I used my Milwaukee M18 cutoff wheel tool to trim the strapping style brackets to size. I drilled a couple pilot holes for the metal screw to fasten the bracket to the A-framing in front of the radiator. Note how I moved the temperature sensor forward using a piece of the bracket material.

Note how I reused the tubing manifold that attaches to the transmission. Unfortunately the billet adapter plate I bought is quite high and when I test fit it with the Russell -6 AN 45 degree fittings it was extremely close to the front driveshaft. Like millimeters. So I decided to dig the factory manifold out of the trash and flared out the ends and stuffed on the Derale 3/8 rubber hose with stainless clamps. It is quite possible that this would work with 90 degree -6 AN hose fittings and a shorter AN manifold (I have seen these on eBay).

Dropping the pan was interesting. I'm thankful I watched the correct YouTube video today that gave me some sage advice I haven't read/watched yet: use a pry bar on a jack to pry the exhaust down toward the ground thus creating a small enough gap to pull the pan.

Word of advice about the Wix 58369 filter kit: it comes with the WRONG gasket. I was pissed as my local parts stores didn't have the proper gasket in stock so I had to use the original 10-year old one, that had cracked rubber, with some RTV. Mine needed a ATP JG-140 which also is AC Delco #24224781. The angled corner is "softer" whereas the wrong design has a perfect 45 degree angle.

You can see in the photos that I used a Hayden 397 brass adapter that has the GM swage end and a barb end on the other side. I use clear vinyl hose and secure it so it'll pump the fluid into a container. After I install the new filter, gasket, and cleaned pan I refilled the transmission with about six quarts of genuine GM Dexron VI (I bought the gallon jugs of it from Tasca Parts for $14.36/gallon). I started the engine and let the pump dump out several quarts of nasty dark fluid. While the engine runs I fill the transmission through the dipstick tube while it continue to pumps out. You can take a short break to check for fluid color change - it is very obvious when the fresh stuff starts to pump out as its cherry red. Shut the motor off. At this point I began the new hose installation.

 

[trailblazer]

More photos:

 

[trailblazer]

More photos:

 

[Sam Harris]

You should still have a radiator passthrough

Grab the lines for a unit w/ the external. The kit I used came from PT - basically you cut the passenger side line, rotate it 180 degrees, the secure back in place with a compression fitting. Bolt the bracket in, put your ambient temp sensor in, then bolt the cooler and hook the lines up. It's a super quick install. ~1-1.5hr. That being said I think the return line is different so you might have to really get under the truck and actually replace the lines vs. just an addition. Might be worth entertaining making some AN lines. How you want to do it is up to you but the plumbing is as follows: Trans->radiator->cooler->trans. Some folks bypass the radiator passthrough. I didn't. It's largely personal choice, the tradeoff being performance in cold weather vs. chance of radiator passthrough failing and injecting coolant into the trans. I just did my lines, so I'm leaving them as is. If anything should come up with them in the future, I'd probably bypass the rad passthrough and install an oil thermostat.

You might need some of the snap on screw clip things for it as well. Auto parts store should have them. I did mine in the o'reilly's parking lot. Easy insurance if something doesn't go as expected. You're already at the parts store!

Great info. Thank you!!