Transmission shifting issue (second opinion)

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alaska_guy

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Hey everyone, I recently purchased a suburban knowing it was having some transmission based issues. Basically it has a firm/harsh 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift flares a couple hundred rpm before it catches and holds.

It does this consistently and ALWAYS holds the gears after the shifts complete.

An online retailer/rebuilder of valve bodies suggested that more than likely, the separator plate where a check ball goes wore out due to age/use and a check ball is stuck in place causing my issues. His re-manufactured valve body kit is $200 shipped fully assembled.

Does this sound accurate? I assumed it was something valve body related since it holds gears just fine and never slips after it shifts...

Figure I am out $200 worst case scenario?

I have replaced valve bodies before so I am somewhat familiar with them and whats required. Ford 4R100 transmissions have a known issue with their feed bolts above the valve body and I have done a few of those before and fixed those, so not too scared of tearing apart the valve body.

I was looking at getting this.

https://www.kenpartintransmissionparts.com/4l60e-rebuilt-valve-body-gm-chevy-1992-to-2007/
 

OR VietVet

GMT800 2005 Tahoe Z71
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I would have "guessed" the same thing because it is a simple replacement. When I say guessed I mean just that because while I was certified in trans work years ago it was only on much older units. 700R4, turbo 400 and turbo 350 were in my wheelhouse and were not controlled with the help of computers. After that it was mainly just R&R trans work. This is something you sound confident in doing and confident with the shared info.
 

swathdiver

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Hey everyone, I recently purchased a suburban knowing it was having some transmission based issues. Basically it has a firm/harsh 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift flares a couple hundred rpm before it catches and holds.

It does this consistently and ALWAYS holds the gears after the shifts complete.

An online retailer/rebuilder of valve bodies suggested that more than likely, the separator plate where a check ball goes wore out due to age/use and a check ball is stuck in place causing my issues. His re-manufactured valve body kit is $200 shipped fully assembled.

Does this sound accurate? I assumed it was something valve body related since it holds gears just fine and never slips after it shifts...

Figure I am out $200 worst case scenario?

I have replaced valve bodies before so I am somewhat familiar with them and whats required. Ford 4R100 transmissions have a known issue with their feed bolts above the valve body and I have done a few of those before and fixed those, so not too scared of tearing apart the valve body.

I was looking at getting this.

https://www.kenpartintransmissionparts.com/4l60e-rebuilt-valve-body-gm-chevy-1992-to-2007/


Check out Joe's and my posts in this thread beginning with #26: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/went-to-the-track.114277/page-3
 

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