Transmission life on the early Hoes?

[Mean_Green]

I've scanned a few threads on the other version forums and they seem to say some transmissions are better than others. This vehicles shows 190+ on the clock. I hope I didn't buy into a world of problems that might lead to breakdowns and big money. I'm completely new to this type of vehicle and I'll admit I went in kind of blind and hoping for the best.

Did I mess up?


.

 

[Doubeleive]

all depends on how much you push the big pedal, drive like granny you might not ever have a problem, drive like mario and you will have a problem.
it doesn't get any more complicated than that. if you do not know how the previous owner treated then it's anyone's guess
there is no way to tell otherwise than to look in the pan and fluid that comes out of it

 

[B-train]

Agreed. Light to moderate throttle is healthy and good for mechanicals that breathe and require pressure to operate.

Listening to your cheap fart can exhaust using the gas pedal as a WOT ON/OFF switch will kill even the best intentioned transmission.....(probably not you, but I'm sure you can pick out the dingbats on the highway)

 

[Marky Dissod]

I've scanned a few threads on the other version forums and they seem to say some transmissions are better than others.
This vehicles shows 190+ on the clock.
I hope I didn't buy into a world of problems that might lead to breakdowns and big money.
I'm completely new to this type of vehicle and I'll admit I went in kind of blind and hoping for the best.

Did I mess up?

Have you changed the ATF & ATF filter yet?
Best time was when you bought it. Next best time is now.
After that, change it again after 25,000 more miles.

Use Dexron6 or https://www.lubegard.com/products/atf/

 

[nonickatall]

Have you changed the ATF & ATF filter yet?
Best time was when you bought it. Next best time is now.
After that, change it again after 25,000 more miles.

Use Dexron6 or https://www.lubegard.com/products/atf/

That is the most important. It is very easy to flush the transmission.

You don't need to go unter the car, every layman can do that, you need no special tools. You do not need to change the filter. The filter in a transmission is more for bigger debris and will never be clogged.

Don't get me wrong, it is good to change the filter, but it is worse to wait for oil change because it is to complicated or expansive in a garage.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I've scanned a few threads on the other version forums and they seem to say some transmissions are better than others. This vehicles shows 190+ on the clock. I hope I didn't buy into a world of problems that might lead to breakdowns and big money. I'm completely new to this type of vehicle and I'll admit I went in kind of blind and hoping for the best.

Did I mess up?


.

If you have no proof trans service has been done lately, drain fluid & pull the pan to see what’s at the bottom of it. If just the normal amout of residual clutch material, give it a filter and change out the EPC and shift solenoids. If there’s a lot of burnt, black clutch material (or metal shavings, etc), pull it and go through it.

Assuming you have a 4L60e, transmission mean time between overhauls is all over the map. Ive seen some come in at 70k with smoked 3-4s while others have gone over twice that. Maintenance is key; specifically keeping transmission temps cool and refreshing the fluid every 24-36k, as others have mentioned (more frequent if you live in a hotter than average climate, like the desert).

Other things that goes around 200k: torque converter, power steering system (gear box leaks, pumps, columns in some cases), body control modules, wheel/hub bearings, engines, etc…

If yours is running well and doesnt show signs of any of the above you should be fine. Even if you have to rebuild the transmission and replace the converter, at least you will know its good to go for at least another 100k.

 

[nonickatall]

If you have no proof trans service has been done lately, drain fluid & pull the pan to see what’s at the bottom of it. If just the normal amout of residual clutch material, give it a filter and change out the EPC and shift solenoids. If there’s a lot of burnt, black clutch material (or metal shavings, etc), pull it and go through it.

You are right, but, I don't think the oil pan needs to be removed every oil change. The filter in an automatic transmission is only there to catch coarse chunks that arise somewhere.

The metallic abrasion ends up on the magnet anyway and the layman doesn't see the status of wear from the mud anyway.

As long as the transmission is running, it is better to disconnect the hose at the front of the oil cooler and flush the transmission with new oil regularly, than to refrain from changing the oil, because you do not dare to remove the oil pan.

If you have a lifting platform and the corresponding possibilities, it is certainly good to dismantle the pan, but if not, that's not bad either.

I know what I'm talking about, I do gearbox overhaul.

A lot transmission would last longer with regular oil service...

 

[NickTransmissions]

You are right, but, I don't think the oil pan needs to be removed every oil change. The filter in an automatic transmission is only there to catch coarse chunks that arise somewhere.

The metallic abrasion ends up on the magnet anyway and the layman doesn't see the status of wear from the mud anyway.

As long as the transmission is running, it is better to disconnect the hose at the front of the oil cooler and flush the transmission with new oil regularly, than to refrain from changing the oil, because you do not dare to remove the oil pan.

If you have a lifting platform and the corresponding possibilities, it is certainly good to dismantle the pan, but if not, that's not bad either.

I know what I'm talking about, I do gearbox overhaul.

A lot transmission would last longer with regular oil service...

In the OPs case, I’d absolutely remove the pan and if nothing out of the ordinary is visible, replace solenoids, filter, gasket then put it back on to do the flush. Maintenance extent is dictated by usage patterns. Heavy duty use, swap filter every 18-24k; daily driving, once every 48k-50k.

You don’t need a lift do remove the pan, just a wobble socket or extension to get to any pan bolts that are slightly behind the rear x member. In the 01+ trucks/suvs, you also need to remove the front exhaust but the legacy sbc trucks, that usually isn’t necessary.

 

[nonickatall]

In the OPs case, I’d absolutely remove the pan and if nothing out of the ordinary is visible, replace solenoids, filter, gasket then put it back on to do the flush. Maintenance extent is dictated by usage patterns. Heavy duty use, swap filter every 18-24k; daily driving, once every 48k-50k.

You don’t need a lift do remove the pan, just a wobble socket or extension to get to any pan bolts that are slightly behind the rear x member. In the 01+ trucks/suvs, you also need to remove the front exhaust but the legacy sbc trucks, that usually isn’t necessary.

You are absolutely right again and if the person can do these things himself, he should do it and if he cannot do it himself, but has the money to go to a workshop, he should do it.

However, I keep observing that many people refrain from servicing their transmission, because it is too expensive for them or they are for whatever reason afraid of working on the transmission and the transmission is running.

And at some point it is too late and for such people it is better to do a simple oil change via the oil cooler and leave the oil pan mounted, than to do nothing.

Especially since I don't find it very comfortable to lie under the car and remove the oil pan.

But again, if you want to do it in the absolut right way, then remove the oil pan, swap the filter and the magnets...

 

[Eman85]

As others said it's time to do a transmission service. Before going to the store or ordering a filter you'll need to look at the pan and identify which transmission you have. Factory 4L60E used 2 different design pans, one has a step in it, and the different pans use a different filter. I use a suction tank to empty the pan before removing, makes for an easier job. If you pull the pan with fluid in it have a large drain pan under it. After you pull the pan and dump the fluid look at the bottom of the pan and see what's there. Black looking wet dust is common as clutches wear. Some small flecks of brass or aluminum are wear from bushings.
The seal for the filter is pressed into the trans and can be a pain to get out, be careful not to score the trans case when removing. Be sure to press the new seal in and lube it before pressing the filter in. Gasket might be a reuseable one in which case reuse it. If not clean the pan good and I just use a light coat of grease to hold the new gasket in place. Sealer is not necessary. Refill with fresh fluid, I use Valvoline available at Walmart blue or red container, both work perfectly well. Be sure to idle the truck in park and keep checking and adding until you have the correct level of fluid, full cold. The level is hard to read after a refill so be sure to look at both sides of the stick, don't dive it until you're sure it's full.

 

[Mean_Green]

I don't even know what most of those words mean.

I'll be having a shop go through the whole vehicle once I can get it scheduled. I'll see what they find. Transmission work seems to be a matter of opinion. I've seen quite a few say not to mess with older ones so you don't stir something up out of the pan that can circulate to where it can do damage. Others say to do a full flush and fill.

 

[Mean_Green]

In the OPs case, I’d absolutely remove the pan and if nothing out of the ordinary is visible, replace solenoids, filter, gasket then put it back on to do the flush. Maintenance extent is dictated by usage patterns. Heavy duty use, swap filter every 18-24k; daily driving, once every 48k-50k.

What should I expect a competent shop to charge for that?

 

[Doubeleive]

What should I expect a competent shop to charge for that?

prices may have changed due to inflation but typically around $250 to change the solenoids and new filter, fluids.
can really depend on the shop I guess. I am sure fluid cost has risen in the last year or so.

 

[NickTransmissions]

What should I expect a competent shop to charge for that?

Agree with Wes….$250-$400 on the high side. The shop may ohm out your solenoids or, upon visual inspection see they’ve already been replaced in the recent past and tell you they’re fine but if they’re all original, my cost for all of them is just under $120. Many shops will mark up between 10-20% over wholesale cost.

Id call around if you haven’t already to see what’s out there. Alternatively you can do the solenoid/filter/pan gasket/flush job yourself for a lot less (most shops will not do an actual transmission flush if mileage is north of 100-125k). They fear new fluid will flush out “gunk” in the trans and cause it to have problems after the flush. A non-issue in my opinion but they don’t want to be stuck with paying for a trans rebuild if the trans starts to act up and customer complains…

 

[nonickatall]

Agree with Wes….$250-$400 on the high side. The shop may ohm out your solenoids or, upon visual inspection see they’ve already been replaced in the recent past and tell you they’re fine but if they’re all original, my cost for all of them is just under $120. Many shops will mark up between 10-20% over wholesale cost.

Id call around if you haven’t already to see what’s out there. Alternatively you can do the solenoid/filter/pan gasket/flush job yourself for a lot less (most shops will not do an actual transmission flush if mileage is north of 100-125k). They fear new fluid will flush out “gunk” in the trans and cause it to have problems after the flush. A non-issue in my opinion but they don’t want to be stuck with paying for a trans rebuild if the trans starts to act up and customer complains…

From my humble view is a transmission flush the most misunderstood thing.

Here in Germany garage charges for a flush 500 to 800€ and people think that they can't do it themself and it cleans the unit. But at least the problem is only, that at most transmissions only have 1/3 to 1/4 of the oil in the pan and the rest is in the toque converter, valve body and pistons.

That is great at the GM transmissions on the GMT 800. You can disconnect the oil cooler, let the engine run, and refill what comes out. You do that 4 times, invest 20 Liter ATF Dexron VI and you have everything changed. Even if you remove the pan, you should do it like this.

 

[NickTransmissions]

From my humble view is a transmission flush the most misunderstood thing.

Here in Germany garage charges for a flush 500 to 800€ and people think that they can't do it themself and it cleans the unit. But at least the problem is only, that at most transmissions only have 1/3 to 1/4 of the oil in the pan and the rest is in the toque converter, valve body and pistons.

That is great at the GM transmissions on the GMT 800. You can disconnect the oil cooler, let the engine run, and refill what comes out. You do that 4 times, invest 20 Liter ATF Dexron VI and you have everything changed. Even if you remove the pan, you should do it like this.

Yep, its a fairly straightforward process; nothing to be afraid of if you’re a DYI’er.

 

[Mean_Green]

Yeah, well I can screw up refilling the washer fluid bottle.

 

[nonickatall]

Yeah, well I can screw up refilling the washer fluid bottle.

You should NOT fill washer fluid into the transmission and no ATF into the washer fluid tank.

Both will not work...

Even if both products are available in red...

 

[oldchev]

The original question was how long will my transmission last. So, as one has already stated, that depends.

Hard driving will surely take its toll. I am a very easy driver (to many’s disdain) and made almost 280k on my 2004 4L65e.
On mine the reaction carrier shell splines stripped on the shaft. A bang, then lots of noise. It limped home.

Besides that, it showed what I would consider normal wear and may have gone another 20-50k miles or who knows? Keep ‘em clean, drive easy = longer life.

 

[Eman85]

I don't even know what most of those words mean.

I'll be having a shop go through the whole vehicle once I can get it scheduled. I'll see what they find. Transmission work seems to be a matter of opinion. I've seen quite a few say not to mess with older ones so you don't stir something up out of the pan that can circulate to where it can do damage. Others say to do a full flush and fill.

I was a GM dealer tech, started at Chevy dealer in mid-70's. Never worked at a shop that had a transmission flush machine and have never done a transmission flush. I've done countless transmission services on newer vehicles and high mileage vehicles, basically drop pan, drain fluid, replace filter and fluid. I've never had one that went bad because of "stirring something up". Those that went bad were on their way well before the service and they were trying to band aid it. Anything that might get "stirred up" would be stopped by the filter. I think some of the tales might have been started back in the old filter style days where the filter might have been prone to clogging, I'm talking real old days.