Tonyrodz's Tahoe Build Thread

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George B

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Found this--https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/tuning-diagnostics-electronics-wiring-161/crank-relearn-explained-sort-344161/
Turn the key to on position
Turn Tech II on
Select the Diagnostics Menu
Select Car Information (Year, Make, Engine, Etc.)
Select Special Functions.
Select Variable Crankcase Learn Procedure.
Follow On Screen Directions.
The Crankcase Learn Procedure is going to ask the Technician to do the following:
Put E-brake On.
Make sure car is in neutral or park.
Turn engine on.
Rev Car to Rev Limiter
Car is done.
When you start the truck the tech2 will restart. Just start with the truck running.
 
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Tonyrodz

Tonyrodz

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I believe the process will be very similar to this video. Maybe you can go in clear the code and then go straight to the learn. The. Thats out of the way and you can work towards that tune.
That damn code comes immediately back, as soon as I delete it.
 

randeez

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It's a P0103. I've swapped it with a known good oem maf and it didn't get rid of the code. The plug is good also. It doesn't set the cel but it never goes away, even when I swapped to the other maf. I was told by someone it was the tuner's **** up. I was gonna have the maf tuned out, but I haven't done it yet.


it could be disabled and the CEL can be manipulated to not turn on. the error is there but it just wont illuminate the light

not really disabled, but faulted out due to one or more of the checks it does to make sure its working
 
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Tonyrodz

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it could be disabled and the CEL can be manipulated to not turn on. the error is there but it just wont illuminate the light

not really disabled, but faulted out due to one or more of the checks it does to make sure its working

A MAF code?!? Well that certainly is a problem!
The code has been there since the original tune, due to the tuner. He said he couldn't get rid of it, gave me some song and dance. I never had a problem with the 1st motor--once the bugs were worked out. Ran fine. Power was always there when needed. That P103 code was always there, but the light was never on.
 

Rocket Man

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I think you need to get the USB cable for your Autocal, pony up the cash to Blackbear, and get with it. That tuner you used is a real POS as far as I’m concerned. Anybody that says he can’t turn on the e-fan pin on your ECM until AFTER you install the fan shouldn’t be tuning. That says to me he doesn’t have a clue as to what he’s doing. Who knows what he did in your tune. Plus that tune was for your other motor. You need to get a datalog, send it to Justin, and let him take care of it. And the sooner the better- it takes a couple weeks now to get your tune from what I hear. Hey Shannon @BlackBearPerf what's the lead time for a tune nowadays?
 

Sam Harris

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The code has been there since the original tune, due to the tuner. He said he couldn't get rid of it, gave me some song and dance. I never had a problem with the 1st motor--once the bugs were worked out. Ran fine. Power was always there when needed. That P103 code was always there, but the light was never on.
Sorry, but seems to me if there’s a MAF code, you’ll never get it tuned right, unless using speed density tuning. Which I don’t believe is the case here..?
 
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Tonyrodz

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I think you need to get the USB cable for your Autocal, pony up the cash to Blackbear, and get with it. That tuner you used is a real POS as far as I’m concerned. Anybody that says he can’t turn on the e-fan pin on your ECM until AFTER you install the fan shouldn’t be tuning. That says to me he doesn’t have a clue as to what he’s doing. Who knows what he did in your tune. Plus that tune was for your other motor. You need to get a datalog, send it to Justin, and let him take care of it. And the sooner the better- it takes a couple weeks now to get your tune from what I hear. Hey Shannon @BlackBearPerf what's the lead time for a tune nowadays?
I agree about that tuner, that's why I cursed him out eventually. This was my 1st outing with tuning a vehicle with a pcm so I didn't know what to expect--or any better! I just got the cable for the tuner. Just like everything else in my life--I'm gonna have to wait. I messaged Shannon last week about tuning prices. Prices have gone up since last summer.
Even tho this is an Lq9 and the previous motor was an Lq4--both are the exact same specs except for the compression--even have the same cams--think the tune would be that "off" between the 2 motors?
 
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Tonyrodz

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Sorry, but seems to me if there’s a MAF code, you’ll never get it tuned right, unless using speed density tuning. Which I don’t believe is the case here..?
I was gonna get my fans turned on from that guy on FB. I told him about my constant maf code and he said he could tune the maf out of the pcm with no ill effects. It would run on its speed density tables with no ill effects.
 

Rocket Man

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I agree about that tuner, that's why I cursed him out eventually. This was my 1st outing with tuning a vehicle with a pcm so I didn't know what to expect--or any better! I just got the cable for the tuner. Just like everything else in my life--I'm gonna have to wait. I messaged Shannon last week about tuning prices. Prices have gone up since last summer.
Even tho this is an Lq9 and the previous motor was an Lq4--both are the exact same specs except for the compression--even have the same cams--think the tune would be that "off" between the 2 motors?
Yes it’s possible. Something else besides compression could have changed too that that POS mechanic didn’t say anything about. Plus like I said, Justin will look at your datalog and tell you why it’s not running right. He figured a couple things out for me just by looking at my data, one was an intermittent MAF issue that was causing issues and had me stumped. He suggested I replace it and bingo. I had no codes, and had installed a house brand MAF from Oreillys awhile back just as preventive maintenance. He saw something in my datalog that made him question the MAF, the data looked erratic. I bought an OEM one and no more problem.
 

randeez

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its all speculation until someone can actually look at the tune.

but its as simple as just setting a self check to error outside of normal range

ie stock may say
maf fail above 10000hz
maf fail below 500hz

if you tell it to error above 100hz and below 10000hz its going to immediately fail, and you can uncheck the SES code for it

Mine (gen 4) would still read the maf but I physically removed the wire from the harness to fail it
20201207_211625.jpg
20201207_211601.jpg
 
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Tonyrodz

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its all speculation until someone can actually look at the tune.

but its as simple as just setting a self check to error outside of normal range

ie stock may say
maf fail above 10000hz
maf fail below 500hz

if you tell it to error above 100hz and below 10000hz its going to immediately fail, and you can uncheck the SES code for it

Mine (gen 4) would still read the maf but I physically removed the wire from the harness to fail it
View attachment 264321 View attachment 264322
How can you do that?
 

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