To delete or not to delete Z55 on 2013 Burb. F/R Coil spring part numbers??

[fireburban]

I'm looking at possibly deleting my Z55 air ride or just running a Bilstien B8 5100 (height adj strut) up front with different front springs and replace the compressor with a Doorman unit and some Arnott AS-2700's rear air shocks to keep the rear air ride for towing.

My stock compressor and rear shocks are shot with only 60k... I pull a 32ft camper during the summer months, and I run 295/55/20 Ridge grapplers (used to run 305 Mud grapplers, wife hated them), so I need a leveling kit (to clear the tires) and air bags or something to help with towing.

I currently have a 1.5/2 in strut spacer and rear pucks for a leveling kit. I'd like to keep my same height but do it with new springs and shocks (5100's) instead of a spacer and puck as another cheaper option vs the air setup...

Anyone know if they make a raised rear (lift) spring for 07-13 burbs (just read something about Z71 rear coils???) I'd run them with 5100's and air bags for when I tow. From what I've read you need to replace the coils when you delete the air ride, just not sure if it's true and if it is what are the part numbers?.

I have looked at the Monroe conversion kit, but I'd rather put my own together because I'm not a Monroe fan, would rather have a kit with Bilstein 5100's.

Any info is appreciated, school me if I need it. I'm open to ideas, and experience from others. I know this has been discussed thoroughly, just not finding exactly what I'm looking for as far as part numbers for coil springs etc...

Thanks

 

[fireburban]

Almost looks like I need this setup??

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/5100-question.96235/

 

[swathdiver]

I'd keep the factory system and rebuild the compressor. How much does that camper weigh?

 

[fireburban]

Around 6500lbs give or take

 

[fireburban]

I guess the point of my post is I have a lot of questions. Can I run the Bilstiens up front with stock springs and set them on the stock height setting, or would I be better off running a moog or equivalent spring with the Bilsteins and setting them higher without the strut spacer? I'm trying to read up as much as I can, some seem to run springs, some don't. Hard to know what the best option is. I guess that's what I'm looking for, is my best option to fit my needs, 80% of the time it's just my wifes kid crusier, other 20% it's a camper hauler/off road bus. Money can be spent, not looking for the cheapest option, but if my best option is cheapest, so be it.

 

[fireburban]

I'd keep the factory system and rebuild the compressor. How much does that camper weigh?

I'm definitely leaning that way, just because of the towing part. Off amazon I'm looking at around $780, that's for 2 Arnott 2700's, Dorman Compressor, and 2 5100's for the front, and e-bay resistors.

 

[swathdiver]

Sorry I cannot be of more assistance, mine has the ZW7 with regular shocks. My minivans had auto level suspension and I replaced the shocks in one with Monroes which lasted about 4 years, can't complain for the price. When my ZW7s original shocks go, I'll try to replace them with AC Delco originals. Arnott's are good products I hear. More folks will chime in after the weekend is over, be patient and give this thread a bump Monday night.

 

[Doubeleive]

the strut shock is on rock auto, you will have to have a spring compressor or take them to a shop to have them swapped out
the arnott's for the rear are 2708 if your keeping the air ride. they are like $150 each and a $50 core each
here is the part information needed for the front and recent price, plus there is a 5% off code in the vendor forum

 

[fireburban]

I added the strut spacer so I've dealt with a spring compressor, no big deal for me, and I'm looking at the AS-2700 not the reman AS-2708's you listed.

Got everything priced out at rock auto and amazon, depending on which manufacturer you choose it's about a horse a piece.

I do have one question, If I go with the 5100's up front, since I used the upper strut spacer, and cut down the mounting bolts on the stock strut mount, can they be reused after the spacer is removed, or should I buy new upper strut mounts?

 

[01Konvict]

You can go all out and ditch the entire system. Rear springs can use moog 81069 and could reuse front spring on 5100s. Get helper bags for the rear. The bags will more than handle the trailer way better.

 

[fireburban]

Anyone have a part number for air bags that fit the z71 (Moog 81069) springs? If it tows better with the moog springs and bilstein shocks I'll be more than happy. I just figured I'd keep the rear air ride for resale/trade-in but I have no plans on getting rid of it any time soon.

Edit: Looks like kit AL60769 from Airlift, sound right?

 

[swathdiver]

That's exactly what I'm getting for mine soon. Springs and shocks are still original. I used to run these in my drag cars, at least one, sometimes two and kept them at minimum pressure most of the time to keep the axle planted during launches. Sometimes to 20 psi but at 40 they blew up.

 

[fireburban]

I have an idea, not sure if it's been done before or if it would even work. What about deleting the system but running a new dorman compressor still hooked to the leveling valves but hook the compressor to the air lift bags in the coil springs. I was kind of thinking with the raised height of the new coils it wouldn't need to level it self out but I do have the aluminum leveling valve arm extenders, so I could set my own height on the rear. I know the air shocks vs the air bags operate differently, but you'd think with my trailer on it would sag somewhat, and the compressor would kick on and level it. So I'd essentially have a deleted suspension but still retain the auto level... Thoughts? Another thought is like you said swathdiver, what if the compressor over inflated the air lift bags, and blew them...

I too ran helper bags in my 2006 GTO when I had it, to control rear end sag and to keep the fenders off my DR's when I was at the track. I like them and know they work, just so undecided on deleting vs keeping the system somewhat stock...

 

[fireburban]

I know some may think, why not just keep the air shocks in the rear then?, and my response would be to get a better ride with the new springs and bilstien shocks, but still retain the option to not have to air up the bags manually with a load on/towing....

 

[fireburban]

Alright... I said F it and ordered all this, gonna delete the Z55... figured I'd replace it all as long as I'm doing it.

2 New Monroe Front Strut mounts (non z55 and autolevel) and 2 Monroe front coil spring insulators. (got these because I plan on removing the strut spacer/leveling kit and using the 5100's to level it, I had to cut the studs shorter on the factory ones, not sure if they will be reusable without the spacer.)

2 Bilstein 5100 24-18940 front adj struts

2 Bilstein 5100 24-187237 Rear shocks

2 Moog 81069 Rear Coil Springs

4 Moog K160072 Rear Coil Insulators

1 Air Lift 60769 Air bag kit

4 E-bay Resistors for autoride delete

I'll take some pics and keep this post updated as I go. Still thinking about running the stock compressor lines to these bags vs running the manual fill valves, we'll see.

 

[fireburban]

@01Konvict have a few questions, been reading up on some older posts...

1) Do I need to set my leveling valves to a fixed location when using the ebay resistors to delete autoride? First time I've read this...

2) I never added shock extenders to the rear when doing my leveling kit before, with the 1in longer 24-187237 bilstein's and Moog 81069 Coils is this still necessary?

Thanks

 

[01Konvict]

@01Konvict have a few questions, been reading up on some older posts...

1) Do I need to set my leveling valves to a fixed location when using the ebay resistors to delete autoride? First time I've read this...

2) I never added shock extenders to the rear when doing my leveling kit before, with the 1in longer 24-187237 bilstein's and Moog 81069 Coils is this still necessary?

Thanks

I would fix sensors so they don't move because the movement changes the signal from the computer to adjust dampening. It lessens the life of the resistor by moving and sending additional input. The rear compressor to the bags seems like a good idea. I have no clue what pressure the shocks run to run off compressor. It would be neat to see if that could be accomplished.

I would run the front bilsteins with the spacer because setting at a higher perch creates higher spring preload. This might be helpful if worrying about front springs being different for auto ride. I don't believe it is much spring rate change between normal and auto because the only difference is electronic dampening. The spring rate may vary a little but still has to support these bricks.

No you don't have to add rear shock spacers if going with longer version shocks that match shock range with spacer lift.

 

[fireburban]

I'm guessing with the bilsteins on the lowest/factory setting if I keep the spacers?

 

[01Konvict]

I'm guessing with the bilsteins on the lowest/factory setting if I keep the spacers?

Correct. Direct swap for stock. Maybe go up to first notch for added preload

 

[STLTZ16]

I'm guessing with the bilsteins on the lowest/factory setting if I keep the spacers?

Did you ever do this? Pics? Looking at doing this to my tahoe