To delete or not to delete Z55 on 2013 Burb. F/R Coil spring part numbers??

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fireburban

fireburban

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Anyone have a part number for air bags that fit the z71 (Moog 81069) springs? If it tows better with the moog springs and bilstein shocks I'll be more than happy. I just figured I'd keep the rear air ride for resale/trade-in but I have no plans on getting rid of it any time soon.

Edit: Looks like kit AL60769 from Airlift, sound right?
 
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swathdiver

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That's exactly what I'm getting for mine soon. Springs and shocks are still original. I used to run these in my drag cars, at least one, sometimes two and kept them at minimum pressure most of the time to keep the axle planted during launches. Sometimes to 20 psi but at 40 they blew up.
 
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fireburban

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I have an idea, not sure if it's been done before or if it would even work. What about deleting the system but running a new dorman compressor still hooked to the leveling valves but hook the compressor to the air lift bags in the coil springs. I was kind of thinking with the raised height of the new coils it wouldn't need to level it self out but I do have the aluminum leveling valve arm extenders, so I could set my own height on the rear. I know the air shocks vs the air bags operate differently, but you'd think with my trailer on it would sag somewhat, and the compressor would kick on and level it. So I'd essentially have a deleted suspension but still retain the auto level... Thoughts? Another thought is like you said swathdiver, what if the compressor over inflated the air lift bags, and blew them...

I too ran helper bags in my 2006 GTO when I had it, to control rear end sag and to keep the fenders off my DR's when I was at the track. I like them and know they work, just so undecided on deleting vs keeping the system somewhat stock...
 
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fireburban

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I know some may think, why not just keep the air shocks in the rear then?, and my response would be to get a better ride with the new springs and bilstien shocks, but still retain the option to not have to air up the bags manually with a load on/towing....
 
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fireburban

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Alright... I said F it and ordered all this, gonna delete the Z55... figured I'd replace it all as long as I'm doing it.

2 New Monroe Front Strut mounts (non z55 and autolevel) and 2 Monroe front coil spring insulators. (got these because I plan on removing the strut spacer/leveling kit and using the 5100's to level it, I had to cut the studs shorter on the factory ones, not sure if they will be reusable without the spacer.)

2 Bilstein 5100 24-18940 front adj struts

2 Bilstein 5100 24-187237 Rear shocks

2 Moog 81069 Rear Coil Springs

4 Moog K160072 Rear Coil Insulators

1 Air Lift 60769 Air bag kit

4 E-bay Resistors for autoride delete

I'll take some pics and keep this post updated as I go. Still thinking about running the stock compressor lines to these bags vs running the manual fill valves, we'll see.
 
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fireburban

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@01Konvict have a few questions, been reading up on some older posts...

1) Do I need to set my leveling valves to a fixed location when using the ebay resistors to delete autoride? First time I've read this...

2) I never added shock extenders to the rear when doing my leveling kit before, with the 1in longer 24-187237 bilstein's and Moog 81069 Coils is this still necessary?

Thanks
 

01Konvict

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@01Konvict have a few questions, been reading up on some older posts...

1) Do I need to set my leveling valves to a fixed location when using the ebay resistors to delete autoride? First time I've read this...

2) I never added shock extenders to the rear when doing my leveling kit before, with the 1in longer 24-187237 bilstein's and Moog 81069 Coils is this still necessary?

Thanks

I would fix sensors so they don't move because the movement changes the signal from the computer to adjust dampening. It lessens the life of the resistor by moving and sending additional input. The rear compressor to the bags seems like a good idea. I have no clue what pressure the shocks run to run off compressor. It would be neat to see if that could be accomplished.

I would run the front bilsteins with the spacer because setting at a higher perch creates higher spring preload. This might be helpful if worrying about front springs being different for auto ride. I don't believe it is much spring rate change between normal and auto because the only difference is electronic dampening. The spring rate may vary a little but still has to support these bricks.

No you don't have to add rear shock spacers if going with longer version shocks that match shock range with spacer lift.
 
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fireburban

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I'm guessing with the bilsteins on the lowest/factory setting if I keep the spacers?
 

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