Throttle body cleaning for 2014 Tahoe LT

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iboughtatahoe23

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I want to clean my own throttle body, I feel like it’s pretty easy to do. But I’ve seen some guy on YouTube with a third GEN Tahoe that had to use a computer to reset the RPMs at idle after cleaning it. Is this so?

And what’s your guys experience cleaning them?

I feel like I’m losing power, and I wanna fix a rough idle. I cleaned maf sensor and it seemed to help a little, but I wanna dig further. See if it I can gain more power.

No lights or anything, but I had a code for boost control and O2 sensor to months ago. I have not seen this code ever since. it only appeared once, just like all my other codes. It’s like it’s a glitch maybe?

I have an app called “FIXD” that uses an obd2 port to scan the car for codes. It’s Bluetooth and also shows live data. What data PIDs can I view to see if I’m losing power?
 
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Dustin Jackson

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Does it need to be cleaned? In all my years of vehicle ownership I've never had a throttle body cleaning ever make a difference, more likely to have an exhaust leak, intake leak, or clogging cat maybe
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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Does it need to be cleaned? In all my years of vehicle ownership I've never had a throttle body cleaning ever make a difference, more likely to have an exhaust leak, intake leak, or clogging cat maybe
I do have a leak. Can’t find where. Stud is broken on driver side rear. And the tick from the leak comes from under left side.

Tick Seems to have nearly disappeared since it’s warmer out.

Can’t feel any air or see any soot where the stud is broken.
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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And in reference to the leak: I have a clamp but I cannot figure out how to get it on. It’s so cramped where the back of the manifold is and the firewall, there’s also a ground wire that goes to the frame to the engine it looks like and that’s where I need to install the manifold clamp. So I have to somehow get my big hands in there. Not sure the what way to approach it. And I have to unscrew the ground, install the clamp and then install the ground to the clamp somehow.
 

Doubeleive

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I have cleaned and do clean mine about every 3-5 months for the last 20 years, never had to have one reset or relearned. BUT it can happen, just bad luck I guess
just don't "force" the butterly more than where it stops at, you can use one finger to hold it open and clean it with the other hand.
I also recomend using a couple bottles of injector cleaner every 2-3 months on a regular basis that will help.
if you have not been doing this or have no idea when it was last done, bought it used or whatever then either run fuel injector back to back for a few tank fulls or have a injector service done, some shops use a tool that connects to the fuel rail and runs the cleaner right into the injectors. cost is usually around $80 or so for the service
carbon build up in varying amounts can happen and cause poor idle or response it won't give you any more pony's by cleaning it, it's just maintenance
like already noted a clogged or bad cat can cause loss of mpg, perhaps some performance loss.
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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I have cleaned and do clean mine about every 3-5 months for the last 20 years, never had to have one reset or relearned. BUT it can happen, just bad luck I guess
just don't "force" the butterly more than where it stops at, you can use one finger to hold it open and clean it with the other hand.
I also recomend using a couple bottles of injector cleaner every 2-3 months on a regular basis that will help.
if you have not been doing this or have no idea when it was last done, bought it used or whatever then either run fuel injector back to back for a few tank fulls or have a injector service done, some shops use a tool that connects to the fuel rail and runs the cleaner right into the injectors. cost is usually around $80 or so for the service
carbon build up in varying amounts can happen and cause poor idle or response it won't give you any more pony's by cleaning it, it's just maintenance
like already noted a clogged or bad cat can cause loss of mpg, perhaps some performance loss.
Any fuel additives you can get for fuel injectors to clean?
 

swathdiver

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Any fuel additives you can get for fuel injectors to clean?
Just run Chevron 93 and E85. Some will use bottles of Techron and I have even used those little bottles of Supertech fuel injection cleaner from Walmart, years ago.

Since my truck spends half the year on E85 and the other half burning Chevron's 93, they stay nice and clean.

There's no better cleaner than E85 IMO.

As for the throttle body, I take it off and clean it, the o-ring is re usable if not pinched. We use that little kit that does the MAF sensor and throttle body from CRC that Walmart sells.
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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Just run Chevron 93 and E85. Some will use bottles of Techron and I have even used those little bottles of Supertech fuel injection cleaner from Walmart, years ago.

Since my truck spends half the year on E85 and the other half burning Chevron's 93, they stay nice and clean.

There's no better cleaner than E85 IMO.

As for the throttle body, I take it off and clean it, the o-ring is re usable if not pinched. We use that little kit that does the MAF sensor and throttle body from CRC that Walmart sells.
What’s chevron 93, and I’m torn between e85 or e87 there’s pros and cons to both. I run e87 currently after running e85 about a month or so. It is flex fuel.
 

swathdiver

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It lasts longer than e85 and is supposed to make my vehicle run butter i read. I use e87 with 10% ethanol (actually like 8%)
Well, there is that. E85 at full strength delivers more horsepower to the pavement but does not last as long. E85 burns about 1/2 gallon more per hour up to about 50/50 city/hwy driving and a full gallon per hour more at 100% highway driving.

Excepting direct injected engines, every car driven by me in 30+ years of driving has performed more efficiently burning 93 compared with 87. Until about 20 years ago, low octane fuels didn't come with the same additive packs that made high test gas so much more powerful but the comparisons today still hold. I always get better mileage and performance running 93 over 87 in ANYTHING, whether it be my weed eater, lawn mower, generator, Toyota 4 cylinder or my LS engines.

Now, one measure of efficiency is in cost per mile. It does not always make sense to burn E85 or 93 octane compared to 87 octane. As for me and my house, we never consider anything less than 93 when it comes to choosing gasoline. It's either that or E85. I might get better gas mileage on 93 over 87 or E85 but the cost difference may not be worth it if the spread is too great. The performance loss and ignition retard is not worth using 87 IMO.

A note on designations. Gasolines today are either E0 for ethanol free or E10. E10 can be 87, 89, 91, 93, etc. E15 is 88 octane and is made up of either 85 or 87 octane fuel plus ethanol.

E85 can be anywhere from 51% to 83% ethanol content. E70 can be anywhere from 51% to 70%! Ethanol is also sold as E20, E25, E30, E40, E50.
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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Well, there is that. E85 at full strength delivers more horsepower to the pavement but does not last as long. E85 burns about 1/2 gallon more per hour up to about 50/50 city/hwy driving and a full gallon per hour more at 100% highway driving.

Excepting direct injected engines, every car driven by me in 30+ years of driving has performed more efficiently burning 93 compared with 87. Until about 20 years ago, low octane fuels didn't come with the same additive packs that made high test gas so much more powerful but the comparisons today still hold. I always get better mileage and performance running 93 over 87 in ANYTHING, whether it be my weed eater, lawn mower, generator, Toyota 4 cylinder or my LS engines.

Now, one measure of efficiency is in cost per mile. It does not always make sense to burn E85 or 93 octane compared to 87 octane. As for me and my house, we never consider anything less than 93 when it comes to choosing gasoline. It's either that or E85. I might get better gas mileage on 93 over 87 or E85 but the cost difference may not be worth it if the spread is too great. The performance loss and ignition retard is not worth using 87 IMO.

A note on designations. Gasolines today are either E0 for ethanol free or E10. E10 can be 87, 89, 91, 93, etc. E15 is 88 octane and is made up of either 85 or 87 octane fuel plus ethanol.

E85 can be anywhere from 51% to 83% ethanol content. E70 can be anywhere from 51% to 70%! Ethanol is also sold as E20, E25, E30, E40, E50.
Good info! should I try a tank of some 93 than? I can just throw it in with 87?edit: does it clean fuel injectors?
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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See my signature below?
?

And I see yours is 07? I was pretty sure that there is something different with the relearn in 2014 and later models. Though it’s the same generation. I find that a lot of things in the 2014 are unique from the 2007-2013. I could be wrong. But things like relearn I thought were necessary. At least that’s what I seen happen to some guy on YouTube after cleaning his throttle body, he had to reset the rpm or relearn it or something because his idle rpm was higher after cleaning it

For example the maf sensor is different in the 2014 than the ones in the 2007-2013 those ones have like a screen
 

swathdiver

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Good info! should I try a tank of some 93 than? I can just throw it in with 87?edit: does it clean fuel injectors?
It'll get diluted by the 87. Just run the tank down as normal and then fill up with 93. If you are wanting to clean the injectors, use E85 instead. Run 5 or 6 tanks in a row before switching to something else.
 

Doubeleive

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?

And I see yours is 07? I was pretty sure that there is something different with the relearn in 2014 and later models. Though it’s the same generation. I find that a lot of things in the 2014 are unique from the 2007-2013. I could be wrong. But things like relearn I thought were necessary. At least that’s what I seen happen to some guy on YouTube after cleaning his throttle body, he had to reset the rpm or relearn it or something because his idle rpm was higher after cleaning it

For example the maf sensor is different in the 2014 than the ones in the 2007-2013 those ones have like a screen
no they changed after 2009 i think, not 2013 your 14 is no different than a 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 with a couple of minor exceptions
you might not even find parts listed unless you search for 2013 because it's one of those years that parts places get confused due to erroneous information so they just stop at 2013 in compatibilty listings.
as for injector cleaner walmart used to have the bottles for .99 cents but since good ol joe it's now like 2.99
so the quart bottle of lucas is cheaper and the 1 gallon is even cheaper than that (per oz), i have been buying the quart bottle and just add 1/3rd per tank full
 

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