Things I should expect?

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Timee

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I have a 2009 Tahoe 2wd 5.3 with 190k on the clock. I was wondering things I should expect coming up, I've had the truck for all 190k kept clean still on the original engine and trans. Is anything expected to fail or should I be worried about it? It has never had any big repairs or anything.
 

Doubeleive

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heater hose's and "T"s
coolant reservoir tank
radiator
front wheel hubs
tie rods
control arms
suspension bushings
water pump
fuel pump
oil pressure sensor
oil pump pickup tube/o-ring
alternator
maf sensor
throttle body
u-joints
ring & pinion
ac pump
shocks
other things are small inside electronics like switches or door handles

i could be missing something but that pretty much sums up the known things that fail before or after 160k on average
 

Dustin Jackson

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It depends on what has been replaced already and what kind of maintenance you do. Take a look at how things are and that should give you an idea of the current status, luckily things don't break overnight so if something is starting to fail there would be plenty of forewarning if you paying attention. The exception to that is the lifter failure, that one can come out of the blue.
 
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I have a 2009 Tahoe 2wd 5.3 with 190k on the clock. I was wondering things I should expect coming up, I've had the truck for all 190k kept clean still on the original engine and trans. Is anything expected to fail or should I be worried about it? It has never had any big repairs or anything.
The transmission will need an overhaul in the near future. Assuming you have a 4l60e (4-speed) the 3-4 clutch pack is the main failure point. Figure about $2000 or so for s full overhaul w/removal, reinstallation, line+cooler flushing and fluid. You can shave $450-600 or so if you do the R/R yourself and another $700 or so if you rebuild it yourself.
 
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Timee

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The transmission will need an overhaul in the near future. Assuming you have a 4l60e (4-speed) the 3-4 clutch pack is the main failure point. Figure about $2000 or so for s full overhaul w/removal, reinstallation, line+cooler flushing and fluid. You can shave $450-600 or so if you do the R/R yourself and another $700 or so if you rebuild it yourself.
Do i know the transmission is going bad if it starts shifting hard or what?
 
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Do i know the transmission is going bad if it starts shifting hard or what?
Here’s a few common 4L60E symptoms:

- slipping, especially in third (3/4 clutch pack fried)

- shuddering (Torque converter taking a dump)

- late harsh 1-2 shifts w dtc p1870 (valve body - can be fixed w/o removing trans)

- no forward movement in Drive but you can move forward in manual low or 2; reverse also works (input sprag failure)

- no movement at all in any position on the shifter (pump failure, stripped input shaft splines or tcase failure if a 4WD)

- loss of reverse, second and fourth gear (sun gear reaction shell failure or rear gear train failure)

The above list is not exhaustive and applies only to the 4L60e. If you have a six speed 6L80, I can give you a similar list applicable to that trans.
 

j91z28d1

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I have a 2009 Tahoe 2wd 5.3 with 190k on the clock. I was wondering things I should expect coming up, I've had the truck for all 190k kept clean still on the original engine and trans. Is anything expected to fail or should I be worried about it? It has never had any big repairs or anything.


you've had it for the whole 190k? that's nice, do you have the afm 4cyl mode active? and it hasn't failed.. can I ask what kinda oil changes you do? like type, how often and what filter? maybe what your oil pressure currently is when warm at idle and 1k rpm.

with all the afm failures and low oil pressure posts it would be interesting to know what you've done to now have any of those past the mileage most people do.


out of that list, if you still have the oem coolent in it, definitely flush that and replace the plastic parts like the t's and stuff while you're in there.
 
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Timee

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you've had it for the whole 190k? that's nice, do you have the afm 4cyl mode active? and it hasn't failed.. can I ask what kinda oil changes you do? like type, how often and what filter? maybe what your oil pressure currently is when warm at idle and 1k rpm.

with all the afm failures and low oil pressure posts it would be interesting to know what you've done to now have any of those past the mileage most people do.


out of that list, if you still have the oem coolent in it, definitely flush that and replace the plastic parts like the t's and stuff while you're in there.
Ive had the 4cyl mode active for all of its 190k just sent my pcm off to get it deleted after reading on it but never had a problem. I used to go to jiffy lube to get oil changes and they I think they used penzoil, I know it was 5w-30 full synthetic and I think a penzoil filter. The past couple oil changes I switched to mobil one full syn extended performance 5w-30 with wix filters. Got oil changes done around every 4-6k miles. Never paid attention to my oil pressure can tell you when I get my pcm back. Also have changed the coolant many times before. Only fixed small things like abs sensors, waterpump etc. Note Tahoe has been on After Market wheels and tires basically its whole life. Only been in the snow for 2 years little to no rust.
 

iamdub

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Ive had the 4cyl mode active for all of its 190k just sent my pcm off to get it deleted after reading on it but never had a problem. I used to go to jiffy lube to get oil changes and they I think they used penzoil, I know it was 5w-30 full synthetic and I think a penzoil filter. The past couple oil changes I switched to mobil one full syn extended performance 5w-30 with wix filters. Got oil changes done around every 4-6k miles. Never paid attention to my oil pressure can tell you when I get my pcm back. Also have changed the coolant many times before. Only fixed small things like abs sensors, waterpump etc. Note Tahoe has been on After Market wheels and tires basically its whole life. Only been in the snow for 2 years little to no rust.

I was about to say, at that mileage, the AFM system is a ticking time bomb if it's all original. I have no doubts that you keeping clean oil in it has gotten it this far. I was gonna suggest to at least start by replacing the usual suspect- the VLOM, with the updated design or having it disabled cuz you'd never miss the minimal increase in MPG, if any at all. It's cheaper and more reliable to have it disabled. How about that driver side valve cover? They updated that in 2010 as well to combat oil consumption. Do you track the consumption?
 

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