I have a 2009 Tahoe 2wd 5.3 with 190k on the clock. I was wondering things I should expect coming up, I've had the truck for all 190k kept clean still on the original engine and trans. Is anything expected to fail or should I be worried about it? It has never had any big repairs or anything.
Things I should expect?
- Thread starter Timee
- Start date
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heater hose's and "T"s
coolant reservoir tank
radiator
front wheel hubs
tie rods
control arms
suspension bushings
water pump
fuel pump
oil pressure sensor
oil pump pickup tube/o-ring
alternator
maf sensor
throttle body
u-joints
ring & pinion
ac pump
shocks
other things are small inside electronics like switches or door handles
i could be missing something but that pretty much sums up the known things that fail before or after 160k on average
coolant reservoir tank
radiator
front wheel hubs
tie rods
control arms
suspension bushings
water pump
fuel pump
oil pressure sensor
oil pump pickup tube/o-ring
alternator
maf sensor
throttle body
u-joints
ring & pinion
ac pump
shocks
other things are small inside electronics like switches or door handles
i could be missing something but that pretty much sums up the known things that fail before or after 160k on average
Dustin Jackson
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It depends on what has been replaced already and what kind of maintenance you do. Take a look at how things are and that should give you an idea of the current status, luckily things don't break overnight so if something is starting to fail there would be plenty of forewarning if you paying attention. The exception to that is the lifter failure, that one can come out of the blue.
The transmission will need an overhaul in the near future. Assuming you have a 4l60e (4-speed) the 3-4 clutch pack is the main failure point. Figure about $2000 or so for s full overhaul w/removal, reinstallation, line+cooler flushing and fluid. You can shave $450-600 or so if you do the R/R yourself and another $700 or so if you rebuild it yourself.
Do i know the transmission is going bad if it starts shifting hard or what?
Here’s a few common 4L60E symptoms:
- slipping, especially in third (3/4 clutch pack fried)
- shuddering (Torque converter taking a dump)
- late harsh 1-2 shifts w dtc p1870 (valve body - can be fixed w/o removing trans)
- no forward movement in Drive but you can move forward in manual low or 2; reverse also works (input sprag failure)
- no movement at all in any position on the shifter (pump failure, stripped input shaft splines or tcase failure if a 4WD)
- loss of reverse, second and fourth gear (sun gear reaction shell failure or rear gear train failure)
The above list is not exhaustive and applies only to the 4L60e. If you have a six speed 6L80, I can give you a similar list applicable to that trans.
you've had it for the whole 190k? that's nice, do you have the afm 4cyl mode active? and it hasn't failed.. can I ask what kinda oil changes you do? like type, how often and what filter? maybe what your oil pressure currently is when warm at idle and 1k rpm.
with all the afm failures and low oil pressure posts it would be interesting to know what you've done to now have any of those past the mileage most people do.
out of that list, if you still have the oem coolent in it, definitely flush that and replace the plastic parts like the t's and stuff while you're in there.
Ive had the 4cyl mode active for all of its 190k just sent my pcm off to get it deleted after reading on it but never had a problem. I used to go to jiffy lube to get oil changes and they I think they used penzoil, I know it was 5w-30 full synthetic and I think a penzoil filter. The past couple oil changes I switched to mobil one full syn extended performance 5w-30 with wix filters. Got oil changes done around every 4-6k miles. Never paid attention to my oil pressure can tell you when I get my pcm back. Also have changed the coolant many times before. Only fixed small things like abs sensors, waterpump etc. Note Tahoe has been on After Market wheels and tires basically its whole life. Only been in the snow for 2 years little to no rust.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I was about to say, at that mileage, the AFM system is a ticking time bomb if it's all original. I have no doubts that you keeping clean oil in it has gotten it this far. I was gonna suggest to at least start by replacing the usual suspect- the VLOM, with the updated design or having it disabled cuz you'd never miss the minimal increase in MPG, if any at all. It's cheaper and more reliable to have it disabled. How about that driver side valve cover? They updated that in 2010 as well to combat oil consumption. Do you track the consumption?
How much would a VLOM system be around usually? And I used to add less than a quart of oil but stopped paying attention since i've gotten my new truck.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I don't know the part number for the updated one, but the ones I searched just now were $200-$300. Doesn't matter to you since you're disabling AFM- it's not needed. Deleting it from the tune can be done for as little as $50 plus shipping. Less than a quart between changes is really good. I'd still recommend the updated driver side valve cover if yours doesn't have it. I'd also recommend a catch can.
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if you've turned it off in the tune, I don't think I'd replace the vlom, I'd go ahead with the rest of the bypass, which is blocking off the oil port going to the vlom, it's under the oil pressure sensor. done with a little spacer tapped in and then on the lifter side of the vlom solenoids you clip the gasket, so no oil pressure can back up between the lifter and the solenoids. that way you know nothing will every deactivate the lifters again, and that way no change of one getting stuck collapsed. at that point it's a normal valve train with a few heavier lifters. should last the life of the truck.
my 0.2 anyways.
sounds like you've taken good care of it. it does seem like the general consensus is you changed the old at the right time and it's held up well.
992dr
Full Access Member
I don't want to highjack this thread but I do want to say that you have been very helpful since you have joined probably the best forum out there for us Chebby guys.
I like how detailed your info is and how responsive you are, kudos to you my friend.
If you don't mind could I PM you with a few questions in regard to my transmission? I guess I could start a thread, but this issue has been going on for quite some time. I only bring this up because of this "- shuddering (Torque converter taking a dump)"
Really I just wanted to say thank you for your time and info
You're welcome, glad I can help.I don't want to highjack this thread but I do want to say that you have been very helpful since you have joined probably the best forum out there for us Chebby guys.
I like how detailed your info is and how responsive you are, kudos to you my friend.
If you don't mind could I PM you with a few questions in regard to my transmission? I guess I could start a thread, but this issue has been going on for quite some time. I only bring this up because of this "- shuddering (Torque converter taking a dump)"
Really I just wanted to say thank you for your time and info
Please start a new thread in whichever subforum for your vehicle's year in "Engine and Drivetrain" and mention me in the first post. I'd prefer that over private message as everyone has visibility to the issue and responses.
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992dr
Full Access Member
Great, I'd prefer it to be posted as well, I'll post it this afternoon.
Been around for a while but have no idea how to mention someone. How do you mention someone?
Like this: @992dr
Put the "@" then start typing the individual's user name and it will pop up - just click on it and that will post the "mention"
992dr
Full Access Member
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