So I just bought a 2008 GMC Yukon slt. Driver's window, driver rear, pass rear windows inop. Door locks on passenger side work but all others don't due to not having door panels or switches hooked up. Drivers master window switch had a broken ground terminal. I fixed it and installed all door switches. Tested power and ground at switch and it's good. Still not working. So I got out the tech ii to search for dtcs and such. Giving me "no comm" message with driver's master switch. So how do I proceed? Buy a new window switch at $100 or is there an easy way to test the comm lines to verify there's not a short or disconnect somewhere? Is the comm line a power signal, ground, etc etc. Anyone have a diagram for nnbs window switch or at least color code for wires need tested at switch? Thanks a ton in advance for any help. I'd like some Intel before dumping money at parts randomly lol, matt
Tech ii and wiring gurus need your help
- Thread starter Cb2004mj
- Start date
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are you selecting the right vehicle with the tech2? if you do not have the correct vehicle parameters set it may not communicate with the module, have you been able to use the tech2 to test functions like roll the windows up/down, lock/unlock the doors, fold the mirrors, etc? if so I would still be suspect of the switch. The vehicle uses a serial data bus there really isn't analog communication anymore like there was on the nbs's, usually if there is a problem there will be a bcm code active or stored
Kee Fuller
Full Access Member
If you need a switches. I have a few im selling
swathdiver
Full Access Member
I think you need to program the module, especially if it is new. I have not done programming yet with the Tech-2 but you go to Tis2Web and purchase the access of your choice and look up the modules/programming you need etc.
https://tis2web.service.gm.com/tis2web
https://www.acdelcotds.com/subscriptions#
Send me your email address for the wiring diagram.
So I'm selecting vin option "C" is that proper for the Yukon chassis? Thought it was supposed to be fifth digit in the VIN, please correct me if I'm wrong. Bcm isnt showing any other codes. Switch was unplugged for who knows how long so maybe it does just need to be programmed. Anyone know how to program these? Never done one so I'm kind of a newb with that department, I apologise in advance. Great ideas this far though I do appreciate it.
Kee fuller, I'd be interested in a master switch from you sir. I debated ordering a new one off Amazon. That way if it's not my issue I can safely return with a marginal shipping cost loss. If you wanted to get me one for cheapish though I'd consider that as an option. Feel free to PM me your price sir. Zip for shipping would be 32569. Thank you
Kee fuller, I'd be interested in a master switch from you sir. I debated ordering a new one off Amazon. That way if it's not my issue I can safely return with a marginal shipping cost loss. If you wanted to get me one for cheapish though I'd consider that as an option. Feel free to PM me your price sir. Zip for shipping would be 32569. Thank you
Also...sorry I am just going through replying to you all as I read these. This is a used switch, believed to be oem original and programmed already. Truck was purchased used with all door panels and switches removed and claims of three of the window motors not working. Locks and mirror adjustment don't work when master switch and all other plugged in. Have power and ground at master though and passenger door window and locks work fine via that doors switch
swathdiver
Full Access Member
"C" is for Rear Wheel Drive and "K" is for 4x4 or AWD. The option changes in the later years but this is for 2007 through 2009.
C will work if you have a 4x4 but will not show transfer case and front differential modules as I learned the hard way!
Check your email.
Mines 2wd slt so "c" should be accurate then and show comm or no comm appropriately then I presume. Received your email, diagrams look perfect sir. Thank you very much. Have to tear into the motor in my racetruck tomorrow but hopefully Tuesday I'll get back to yukon diag.
Next step will be verifying window motor operation via direct power with test wire. Then checking harness continuity to master switch connectors from BCM. Go from there. Thanks again
Next step will be verifying window motor operation via direct power with test wire. Then checking harness continuity to master switch connectors from BCM. Go from there. Thanks again
So just to update and try to dig for further info, I verified wiring thanks to a member getting me diagrams. I can get rear windows to function via direct power off battery, all wiring tested. Comm lines continuity to bcm is proper from main switch. Everything appears mechanically as it should be. So my diagnosis at this point is faulty switch at driver's door, switch unprogrammed, or far chance bcm is fubar...but I'd suspect we'd have other issues as well not just the driverside locks and window switch inop. Anyone else care to off insight to this? And what's the best way to program the driver's window switch and should I buy a new switch before programming it as it's possible suspect? Rather not spend $100 on a switch if not needed but also don't want to program the switch twice. Thanks for the info and help thus far
