Steering box

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GregBunney

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Hey everyone, I made a post a while ago about my 03’ Yukon getting stolen and the steering being horrid after getting it back. Since then I’ve done inner and outer tie rods, pitman arm, idler arm and bracket and it’s now drivable, but still getting a little sketchy going over bumps at decent speed for lack of better words and it also tends to wander… like hard to keep going straight in my lane if that makes sense. Still no return to center on the wheel and not able to turn my tires about 75% of the time while stopped, it’ll occasionally let me do it though. Wanted to get some input before I spend all the money and time swapping the steering box out.

Side note I’ve developed a pretty consistent oil leak from I believe the back corners of my oil pan gasket, (praying it’s not the RMS), and plan on doing the oil pan gasket/ pickup tube O ring as well. Anything else I should get done? TIA!
 

Nozbich

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ike hard to keep going straight in my lane if that makes sense. Still no return to center on the wheel and not able to turn my tires about 75% of the time while stopped, it’ll occasionally let me do it though. Wanted to get some input before I spend all the money and time swapping the steering box out.
1) Have you checked power steering fluid level?
2) Have you checked for leaks where the power steering cooler connects to the steering box?
3) Have you checked the metal barbs that come out of the top/back of the steering box, they have an o-ring too?
4) Have you checked your intermediate steering shafts (inner/outer)?
5) If you do the steering box, make sure you do the idler arm/bracket as well.

Side note I’ve developed a pretty consistent oil leak from I believe the back corners of my oil pan gasket, (praying it’s not the RMS), and plan on doing the oil pan gasket/ pickup tube O ring as well. Anything else I should get done? TIA!
When you do the oil pan gasket/oil pickup tube o-ring, make sure you put RTV around all four corners where the front/rear timing cover meets the block AND make sure the covers are square and flush. Also, get the Melling pick-up tube bracket and put two bolts back in. Make sure you oil up your o-ring really well before sliding the pick up tube back in. Check the drain plugs for the oil/coolant passages while you're under there too.
 
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GregBunney

GregBunney

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1) Have you checked power steering fluid level?
2) Have you checked for leaks where the power steering cooler connects to the steering box?
3) Have you checked the metal barbs that come out of the top/back of the steering box, they have an o-ring too?
4) Have you checked your intermediate steering shafts (inner/outer)?
5) If you do the steering box, make sure you do the idler arm/bracket as well.


When you do the oil pan gasket/oil pickup tube o-ring, make sure you put RTV around all four corners where the front/rear timing cover meets the block AND make sure the covers are square and flush. Also, get the Melling pick-up tube bracket and put two bolts back in. Make sure you oil up your o-ring really well before sliding the pick up tube back in. Check the drain plugs for the oil/coolant passages while you're under there too.
Fluid has been checked, never gets too low, but does probably need a flush, pretty dirty. Idler arm and bracket have been swapped already too but I will check on 2,3 and 4 tomorrow when I’m off. If it were the O rings on the steering box would that be easier? Thought I read you pretty much need to rebuild it if so anyway, maybe I’m confused.

Thanks for the other tips I appreciate the detailed reply!
 

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GregBunney

GregBunney

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Are you certain that the PS pump and the pressure control valve are operating to spec?

See this link and navigate to your vehicle using the links at the top of your browser:


I'm assuming that you have vacuum assist for the brakes, otherwise [hydroboost] a low pump pressure would also affect braking.
I am not sure, but thank you very much for that link! Badass page! Any tips for checking these specs or is it pretty much just get my hands on a scanner?
 

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There won't be PIDs for PS pressure, but it wouldn't hurt to put a capable scanner on it to see if there are any chassis codes. Not all OBD readers/apps will look a the Cxxx codes.

Post a pic of your brake master cylinder. And the RPO code for hydroboost is JH2; you will have a different code if yours has the vacuum booster system.
 
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GregBunney

GregBunney

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Turn out it vacuum booster I think. I thought it was hydro boost this whole time.
Here’s pics of the brake booster and also the top of my gear box, only place I can really see it leaking is from that adjustment screw it looks like
 

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GregBunney

GregBunney

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Turn out it vacuum booster I think. I thought it was hydro boost this whole time.
Here’s pics of the brake booster and also the top of my gear box, only place I can really see it leaking is from that adjustment screw it looks like
Do I need to post pics one at a time or can you see the 4-5 I posted? I’m only seeing one on my phone view
 

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We can see all 5, and that's a vacuum-assist brake setup. Nothing that the issue with the power steering would affect.
 

Nozbich

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Turn out it vacuum booster I think. I thought it was hydro boost this whole time.
Here’s pics of the brake booster and also the top of my gear box, only place I can really see it leaking is from that adjustment screw it looks like
That steering box is soaked. Try to get someone in the cab turning the wheels while you video the box itself from good angles and see if you can spot a leak.
 
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GregBunney

GregBunney

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1) Have you checked power steering fluid level?
2) Have you checked for leaks where the power steering cooler connects to the steering box?
3) Have you checked the metal barbs that come out of the top/back of the steering box, they have an o-ring too?
4) Have you checked your intermediate steering shafts (inner/outer)?
5) If you do the steering box, make sure you do the idler arm/bracket as well.


When you do the oil pan gasket/oil pickup tube o-ring, make sure you put RTV around all four corners where the front/rear timing cover meets the block AND make sure the covers are square and flush. Also, get the Melling pick-up tube bracket and put two bolts back in. Make sure you oil up your o-ring really well before sliding the pick up tube back in. Check the drain plugs for the oil/coolant passages while you're under there too.
Curious about the Melling pickup tube brace, I see it says won’t fit oem welded pickup tubes or something but I cannot seem to figure out what would be in my Yukon from factory. Is this just kinda a buy it and figure it out once your in there kinda thing?
 

Nozbich

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Curious about the Melling pickup tube brace, I see it says won’t fit oem welded pickup tubes or something but I cannot seem to figure out what would be in my Yukon from factory. Is this just kinda a buy it and figure it out once your in there kinda thing?
Sorry for the late response. I don’t think the tube matters as much as getting the bolts torqued down (106-in lbs) and using the correct O-ring on the tube.
 
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rockola1971

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Yukon was probably bounced off every curb in a 15 mile area. They drove it like they stole it. Jack your frontend off the ground just enough for tires to clear the ground. Have someone turn the steering just like 2 degrees left and right back and forth. Watch the output shaft (its what your pitman arm is pressed onto) of your gearbox and you will likely see that the output shaft is not only turning but moving side to side. Its likely bent.
 
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GregBunney

GregBunney

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Yukon was probably bounced off every curb in a 15 mile area. They drove it like they stole it. Jack your frontend off the ground just enough for tires to clear the ground. Have someone turn the steering just like 2 degrees left and right back and forth. Watch the output shaft (its what your pitman arm is pressed onto) of your gearbox and you will likely see that the output shaft is not only turning but moving side to side. Its likely bent.
Haven’t tried it yet but tbh this sounds like it’s probably my issue lol. I’ll give this a try next time I have access to a jack.
 

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