Stabilitrak/Traction Control Issues

[RightSideUp]

07 Tahoe LT, 90k

I know there's alot of posts about this issue but I'm not seeing anything about my specific issue.

I had the engine cover off to change the purge valve for vapor canister. Lost one of the rubber grommets so ordered a new one and left the cover in the back. Week later new grommet arrives so put the cover back on and changed oil. Somehow... when putting the cover back on I accidentally unplugged one of the coil packs..

Without realizing what I did, started truck and moved from my driveway into a spot. Realized stabilitrak/traction control message and engine light, also running shaky. Shut it down found the plug off, plugged it back in. Disconnected battery for 15min started up, ran fine but traction control/stabilitrak came on again but no engine light.

Before I plugged coil pack back in I put my cheap scanner on and had PO175/172 left/right banks etc.

Thought maybe I threw something off with coil pack so ordered one. Put on with no change. Also change the oil again because gas may be in oil From what I read on the cord.

Still no change. Wound up doing MAF Sensor also.

Is it possible I screwed up the fuel injector for the cylinder that was unplugged? Keep in mind truck ran with coil pack unplugged for less than a minute.

Another possibility with the codes it had was O2 sensors.

Best part is,, during my half hour ride to work there are no issues, no stabilitrak popping up, no bang on the 1-2 shift, nothing..

During the ride home it comes on every 5min. I've been keeping my scanner plugged in to turn off as soon as it pops up.

I read there's some kind of reboot that can only be done at a dealer but don't want to spend that money until I get some solid feedback on it.

TIA

 

[j91z28d1]

I don't believe running it with an unplugged injector for a bit hurt anything.

for the coil, if you unplugged it from the harness side it shouldn't hurt it. but I have heard of a coil going bad after running with a plug wire off it. spark has to find a place to go and I guess it can jump over something to ground, leave some carbon tracking and keep jumping there instead of the plug when hooked back up.

rare thou.

 

[Grady_Wilson]

If you're still having Stabilitrak errors, best to get a decent scanner and see what is causing the error.
I had a flaky steering angle sensor throw an inconsistent Stabilitrak error.
Code was still stored even when there was no error on the DIC.
Sensor finally went out for good and I had a constant Stabilitrak error as soon as I turned the steering wheel.

There are a lot of parts involved in the Stabilitrak system so grab the code and see what it says.
Could be any number of sensors for the system.

 

[petethepug]

Was it the spark plug wire? If so, they like to get an air gap inside if they’re not pulled off at the boot vs the wire.

If it’s time for a new set of wires, change em now to try and get two pterodactylus with one stone.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

As @Grady_Wilson stated above, I recommend that you purchase a quality bi-directional scanner. That will allow you to troubleshoot much more deeply, and will probably result in you finding the root cause of your issue. Then, going forward, you will pay for this scanner ($350-$600) many times over, as you successfully troubleshoot future issues. My scanner paid for itself in less than 1 year.

 

[Doubeleive]

07 Tahoe LT, 90k

I know there's alot of posts about this issue but I'm not seeing anything about my specific issue.

I had the engine cover off to change the purge valve for vapor canister. Lost one of the rubber grommets so ordered a new one and left the cover in the back. Week later new grommet arrives so put the cover back on and changed oil. Somehow... when putting the cover back on I accidentally unplugged one of the coil packs..

Without realizing what I did, started truck and moved from my driveway into a spot. Realized stabilitrak/traction control message and engine light, also running shaky. Shut it down found the plug off, plugged it back in. Disconnected battery for 15min started up, ran fine but traction control/stabilitrak came on again but no engine light.

Before I plugged coil pack back in I put my cheap scanner on and had PO175/172 left/right banks etc.

Thought maybe I threw something off with coil pack so ordered one. Put on with no change. Also change the oil again because gas may be in oil From what I read on the cord.

Still no change. Wound up doing MAF Sensor also.

Is it possible I screwed up the fuel injector for the cylinder that was unplugged? Keep in mind truck ran with coil pack unplugged for less than a minute.

Another possibility with the codes it had was O2 sensors.

Best part is,, during my half hour ride to work there are no issues, no stabilitrak popping up, no bang on the 1-2 shift, nothing..

During the ride home it comes on every 5min. I've been keeping my scanner plugged in to turn off as soon as it pops up.

I read there's some kind of reboot that can only be done at a dealer but don't want to spend that money until I get some solid feedback on it.

TIA

there's no "reboot", that's a rabbit hole of someone's imagination either that or the wrong terminology is being used
since you are at 90k already and you have 02 sensor codes I would go ahead and replace both upstream 02 sensors (02 sensors are rated for 100k)
then double check your work under the hood, it's kinda hard to disconnect a coil from simply removing and replacing the engine cover, but more easily done when the purge valve was done but however that occurred I would make sure nothing else happened.
then clear the codes and drive it.......

 

[Grady_Wilson]

Any updates on what you found?
Bad yaw sensor, bad steering angle sensor?

 

[MountainmanNC]

If you're still having Stabilitrak errors, best to get a decent scanner and see what is causing the error.
I had a flaky steering angle sensor throw an inconsistent Stabilitrak error.
Code was still stored even when there was no error on the DIC.
Sensor finally went out for good and I had a constant Stabilitrak error as soon as I turned the steering wheel.

There are a lot of parts involved in the Stabilitrak system so grab the code and see what it says.
Could be any number of sensors for the system.

Hi , I am having same problem, as soon as I turn wheel stab. Light comes on and no cruise control. My buddy replaced steering sensor at his shop and honestly I don’t think he could figure out from there. No codes are coming up. I just changed o2 upstream today bank 1. Separate issue I believe.
He thinks it’s the brake control module although no codes found.
Any ideas. ? Thanks in advance
Jon

 

[Grady_Wilson]

Since you instantly get the error as soon as the wheel is turned I would still look at the steering angle sensor.
Did you use a GM sensor?
Plenty of stuff I read online said only OEM sensors work correctly.
Saw plenty of posts about needing to go in again if you use an aftermarket sensor.
A good two way scanner will allow you to read the live data from the steering angle sensor to see if it is actually reporting data.
Also, if the wheel was turned, even slightly, during the install a Steering Angle Sensor reset would be needed.

 

[petethepug]

Gotta get a local auto part store to pull your codes.

A bad wheel speed sensor will also have those symptoms. If that’s the case the entire hub assembly is replaced because you’re in there.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

If the dash light comes on, a trouble code is generated. If you don't see it with your scanner, my guess is that you are not using a quality bi-directional scanner, capable of identifying and displaying underlying control module or deep trouble codes.

I recommend that you get yourself a quality bi-directional scanner to add to your tool box. Then, you will be able to read ALL codes, along with a brief explanation/pointer to the source of your issue. You will literally save thousands of dollars in diagnostic and repair costs over the life of your truck, and you will most likely recoup the cost of the scanner within 1 year.

 

[Grady_Wilson]

If the dash light comes on, a trouble code is generated. If you don't see it with your scanner, my guess is that you are not using a quality bi-directional scanner, capable of identifying and displaying underlying control module or deep trouble codes.

I recommend that you get yourself a quality bi-directional scanner to add to your tool box. Then, you will be able to read ALL codes, along with a brief explanation/pointer to the source of your issue. You will literally save thousands of dollars in diagnostic and repair costs over the life of your truck, and you will most likely recoup the cost of the scanner within 1 year.

Yup, my scanner has paid for itself many times over, not just with my Yukon, but with more than a dozen other vehicles.
I'm sort the family mechanic, so I have plugged into a lot of cars since I bought it.
My 2002 Nissan Altima had the chip key sensor in the ignition lock go out.
I bought a replacement sensor but the car was still stuck in 'locked' mode.
I thought I was going to have to have the dealer pull it out of Locked mode but I went ahead and reprogrammed all 3 keys to the vehicle for the heck of it and it worked great.
Saved me a tow and at least a $500 trip to the dealer.
That single use saved me more than the original purchase of the scanner.
The scanner has also been loaned out to friends that have scanned their cars for issues not able to be read with a basic scanner.

 

[rdezs]

"Did you use a GM sensor?
Plenty of stuff I read online said only OEM sensors work correctly"

How true. I have found this an accurate statement on crankshaft and camshaft position sensors, oil pressure sensors, as well as the ABS sensors to name just a few of the more common ones. For example, stay away from Walker brand camshaft position sensors. It will not trip any codes, but it will only start on the second attempt.

 

[Fless]

"Did you use a GM sensor?
Plenty of stuff I read online said only OEM sensors work correctly"

How true. I have found this an accurate statement on crankshaft and camshaft position sensors, oil pressure sensors, as well as the ABS sensors to name just a few of the more common ones. For example, stay away from Walker brand camshaft position sensors. It will not trip any codes, but it will only start on the second attempt.

Some of the cam and crankshaft sensor issues like long crank times are due to the fact that a CASE relearn isn't done after one or both were changed. If it's not done, the crankshaft position sensor doesn't know where it is in relation to the camshaft, so if the ECM doesn't sense a start, it'll try with the opposite relationship. It might take a little time for it to switch, causing the long crank.

The engine can start without a cam signal, or with an unsynchronized signal, but long crank times may be experienced. Eric O describes how it works in this video:

 

[rdezs]

The problem with mine wasn't a CASE relearn. For the first time in 30 years I let the dealer have it for a couple hours and try to diagnose. They were stumped. I had read something online, and told them to go ahead and change the camshaft sensor. And that cured the start issue. They were completely baffled. Even though the equipment showed the Walker brand camshaft sensor was sending a correct signal... It always failed on the first try. It created a bit of a stir at the dealership with the service manager. What it means is their own equipment cannot all the time determine if an aftermarket sensor is working properly or not. In the end they only charged me the minimum 1 hour labor charge plus the cost of the AC Delco camshaft position sensor.

 

[Fless]

The problem with mine wasn't a CASE relearn. For the first time in 30 years I let the dealer have it for a couple hours and try to diagnose. They were stumped. I had read something online, and told them to go ahead and change the camshaft sensor. And that cured the start issue. They were completely baffled. Even though the equipment showed the Walker brand camshaft sensor was sending a correct signal... It always failed on the first try. It created a bit of a stir at the dealership with the service manager. What it means is their own equipment cannot all the time determine if an aftermarket sensor is working properly or not. In the end they only charged me the minimum 1 hour labor charge plus the cost of the AC Delco camshaft position sensor.

Understood. But if a CASE relearn wasn't done when the Walker sensor was installed, the sensor may not have been at fault. The statement about only starting on the second attempt might mean the sensor itself was not functioning properly, or that the crankshaft position sensor had to apply the alternative attempt at starting.

 

[rdezs]

They did the relearn twice with no effect prior to removing it. (And I had done it about a week earlier in the troubleshooting process) If I remember correctly, it was a review on Amazon or someone posted same experience that tipped me off.

 

[rdezs]

Found it. "

Walker Products 235-1156 Engine Camshaft Position Sensor"​

Stay away from this item.

 

[Fless]

They did the relearn twice with no effect prior to removing it. (And I had done it about a week earlier in the troubleshooting process) If I remember correctly, it was a review on Amazon or someone posted same experience that tipped me off.

Ok, I didn't know that you had that done prior. Just a suggestion for future readers.

 

[rdezs]

Just a good reason I suppose to always use AC Delco or genuine GM for the sensors. And based on what we discovered in my case, you can't effectively rule out an aftermarket sensor until it's replaced..... So going forward, if I buy a used vehicle, I guess I'll just have to go through and check all the sensors and make sure they are OEM. Like the guy at the dealership said, from what he learned you can't even begin any troubleshooting process without replacing any aftermarket sensors.