Not me. I ordered from rock auto. Double check your VIN on gmpartsdirect to get the right part number. Your rears are usually self leveling, which I think is Z95 or 85 that aren’t magnetic ride but I may be wrong. Your RPO codes on the inside of your glove box has the codes.
[SOLVED] Advice on 2017 Hoe Prem shock replacement
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West 1
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I bought from two vendors when I needed new rear shocks and compressor. By FAR, Rockauto was the easiest to deal with, I used two vendors because at the time neither vendor had 2 shocks available. I chose Arnott shocks and the AC Delco air pump. Still working fine a year later. Mine is a 2008 and an airline broke mid year. Dorman offered an air line kit that fixed that.
The shocks I bought needed a Core return so you have to ship your old shocks back for a large core credit. Rockauto was super easy for this part. Vendor #2 was a pain in the butt on the return side. Vendor 2 was a full week slower on delivery than Rock Auto.
Maybe buying the GM new shocks you don't have to deal with a core return?
Good luck with your repair. The job itself is no big deal, the compressor change out does not take long either.
The shocks I bought needed a Core return so you have to ship your old shocks back for a large core credit. Rockauto was super easy for this part. Vendor #2 was a pain in the butt on the return side. Vendor 2 was a full week slower on delivery than Rock Auto.
Maybe buying the GM new shocks you don't have to deal with a core return?
Good luck with your repair. The job itself is no big deal, the compressor change out does not take long either.
I bought mine from Rock Auto, they showed up in factory GM boxes, which is what i expected sicne i ordered GM Z95 shocks for the rear.
dejackson1064
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Well here's an update on my situation. After A LOT of research and advice from many, thank you,... based on the mileage of my Hoe, the condition of existing OE & the price of OE replacement parts, I opted to perform a suspension hysterectomy! Everything went great! Springs & shocks for the rear & strut assembies in front. Magneride delete kit working perfectly. My very trusted repair shop made mention to me that they have performed 4 MagneRide hysterectomys this week alone. MagneRide is nice but it's durability, longevity, & overall cost couldn't be justified for a Hoe w/ 150K.
Brian71
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I did the same on my 17. I went with the Fox Shocks. The ride seems the same as before. Plus I don’t have to listen to the compressor anymore
dejackson1064
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Yeah I went with Bilstein. I have a question. Did you disconnect your compressor and remove it. And if so how. Mine still in the truck but only runs for about 30 seconds and not very often.
You can pull the fuse for the compressor or remove it. To remove it disconnect the hoses, just follow from the compressor or the T that’s near the axle then back off the 2 nuts that hold the compressor bracket in place. One of them is through a hole so you’ll need a deep socket.
All,
I have a 2015 tahoe LTZ with original magneride I am wanting to replace with tradition suspension. I am about to sell the vehicle so I don't need top end replacement. I have been looking at the magdelete site and there is an option for the Bilstein shocks for $1471 and a more middle of the road set for $1049. Does anyone know anything about the middle of the road set over Bilstein. Any thoughts on magdelete website? Again, consider that I am only replacing it to get better resale out of it.
I’d think you’d get better resale with the original system working. You can get passive shocks for the rear on Rocksuto or the GMPARTSDIRECT. To save some money on the fronts you can get just struts and swap the springs. Arnott has several options too. Double check your rpo codes to make sure you have magnetic ride vs electronically controlled shocks.
See I honestly think you would get better resale out of a tahoe taking the magneride out and going with a traditional suspension. Anyone that knows anything about a tahoe as of late knows that the magneride system is a problem. At least with traditional suspension you know it will last for at least the next 75-80k miles, if not longer. I feel like that is a bird in the hand over stock. And yes, it is most definitely magneride. I've already had the struts replaced once about 40k miles ago and the rear system was worked on at the same time. Seems like from everything I've read and seen in my own experience you only get about 50k miles at best out of this system. Which is why I am thinking that a traditional system would be a selling point. I should add that I am planning on selling the car myself, not trading it in. Another reason I don't think having the OEM parts put back on is worth it.
Brian71
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It was hooked up for a month after the swap but it ran more than before. My mechanic removed the fuse, I’ve had no issues since. No warning lights or check engine lights.
