[SOLVED] Advice on 2017 Hoe Prem shock replacement

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dejackson1064

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I've got a 2017 Tahoe premium 5.3 L with rear air suspension that needs replaced. Any advice appreciated videos or conversion advice
 

Big Mama

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Some will say replacing with passive shocks worked out fine. My experience was the opposite. So much so that I went back to the factory setup. You can find OE or aftermarket rear shocks for decent money. GM spent a lot of money to have your suspension work, especially in uncontrollable situations, so I’d keep it. Up front you can buy just the strut and reuse your springs.
 
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dejackson1064

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Thank you! I got a couple of these beasts 2004 Yukon SLT and a 2017 Tahoe premium I trust the Yukon more than I do the Tahoe at this point. I already had transmission problems now I'm facing suspension issues
 

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Joseph Garcia

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As @Big Mama stated above, and I agree, we've had both passive and active suspensions systems on these trucks, and we prefer the active system. In full transparency, other members on this Forum prefer passive suspensions.

Take a photo on your RPO code sticker and VIN, go to GMPartsDirect.com, enter your VIN, go to the Suspension section, and match up your RPO codes to find your correct parts. The cost will be 30+% cheaper than the dealer for the same OEM parts. You can also go to RockAuto.com, do the same, and compare prices.

You may also need to replace the compressor, if it burned out trying to fill leaking rear air shocks.
 

Loki223

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I just ordered a new compressor and rear shocks for my 15. They are spendy, but the ride quality should be worth it. I bought all GM parts, as they were cheaper then the arnotts at the time. When i had looked a month earlier, arnott was cheaper, so prices vary it appears. I bought through Rock Auto and used a discount code to save some money
 
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dejackson1064

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One more question for you all on this topic. I do most of my own work but I'm limited with regards to some of the equipment that may be needed to perform this shock project. Would I be able to do it with a floor jack and jack stands? Or would you recommend just having it done?
 

Big Mama

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You certainly can, especially if it’s just the rears. I got the spare out of the way to get to the air lines a little easier. For the compressor check out a YT video bc you don’t have to remove the nuts. You’ll see what I mean. You’ll save enough on labor to cover the added OE cost.
 
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dejackson1064

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You certainly can, especially if it’s just the rears. I got the spare out of the way to get to the air lines a little easier. For the compressor check out a YT video bc you don’t have to remove the nuts. You’ll see what I mean. You’ll save enough on labor to cover the added OE cost.
Terrific thanks again for the advice. I just checked out a couple YouTube videos and looks like I'll be able to handle it without too much of an issue.
 

Loki223

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You shouldn't have any problems with doing it on the ground. Only thing a lift would help with is it would be in the air, and you get to stand instead of lay down on the ground. But you could fully rebuild the entire truck on the ground if you needed to. hand tools and jack stands should be all that's really necessary for almost anything on one of these trucks. My rear struts and compressor have all shown up, hoping i can squeeze those in next weekend as well. Wanted to do them this weekend but got tied up with other things. it was so much easier to find time to wrench on things when i was single...now a days the wife always has something she needs me to do....
 
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dejackson1064

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You shouldn't have any problems with doing it on the ground. Only thing a lift would help with is it would be in the air, and you get to stand instead of lay down on the ground. But you could fully rebuild the entire truck on the ground if you needed to. hand tools and jack stands should be all that's really necessary for almost anything on one of these trucks. My rear struts and compressor have all shown up, hoping i can squeeze those in next weekend as well. Wanted to do them this weekend but got tied up with other things. it was so much easier to find time to wrench on things when i was single...now a days the wife always has something she needs me to do....
Well here is my progress update. Im in shock about the price of these shocks! This 2017 Tahoe is a pain-in-the-ass money pit! It sits at my house more than it's been driven. And compared to my 04 Yukon w/ 285K, I just dont trust it!!! I can't enjoy driving it because I'm too worried that something new is going to break. Too pretty, too fancy, TOO HIGH MAINTENANCE!
 

Loki223

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Well here is my progress update. Im in shock about the price of these shocks! This 2017 Tahoe is a pain-in-the-ass money pit! It sits at my house more than it's been driven. And compared to my 04 Yukon w/ 285K, I just dont trust it!!! I can't enjoy driving it because I'm too worried that something new is going to break. Too pretty, too fancy, TOO HIGH MAINTENANCE!

Honestly, i went from an 05 Denali to the 15 Subruban LTZ. And yeah, i bought cheap. I went in KNOWING i'd be fixing things. But the interior quality, exterior styling, ride quality, literally everything about it is better then the 05 denali. The only thing the Denali has over my burb, was the couch seats. Those were, and always will be, some of the most comfortable seats out there. the GMT800's had the best seats in the newest rigs. That i will fully admit to. With that side, the ride quality require money, you can put cheap passives in there and bypass the upgrades in technology. but at that point, why have a newer rig? I Also bought my Deanli on the cheap (you might notice a pattern) and wokring on the two of them, diagnosing things, fixing things, i prefer modern electronics. 90s tech was bad. in vehicles, 2000s tech is 90s tech with a facelift. It reall wasn't until the 2010s that vehicle tech got to a point where it was reliable, and easy to work with. Given, you need to understand it and realize it's not running on simply power and ground and switches. modern vehicles have CANBUS networks where everything talks to everything else, and if you don't understand it it can be a major hassle. but once you've played with it enough, they are easy. I just wish there was an easier/economical way to hack into the BCM and adjust setting at or beyond the dealer level like can be done on other makes.
 

Big Mama

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Honestly, i went from an 05 Denali to the 15 Subruban LTZ. And yeah, i bought cheap. I went in KNOWING i'd be fixing things. But the interior quality, exterior styling, ride quality, literally everything about it is better then the 05 denali. The only thing the Denali has over my burb, was the couch seats. Those were, and always will be, some of the most comfortable seats out there. the GMT800's had the best seats in the newest rigs. That i will fully admit to. With that side, the ride quality require money, you can put cheap passives in there and bypass the upgrades in technology. but at that point, why have a newer rig? I Also bought my Deanli on the cheap (you might notice a pattern) and wokring on the two of them, diagnosing things, fixing things, i prefer modern electronics. 90s tech was bad. in vehicles, 2000s tech is 90s tech with a facelift. It reall wasn't until the 2010s that vehicle tech got to a point where it was reliable, and easy to work with. Given, you need to understand it and realize it's not running on simply power and ground and switches. modern vehicles have CANBUS networks where everything talks to everything else, and if you don't understand it it can be a major hassle. but once you've played with it enough, they are easy. I just wish there was an easier/economical way to hack into the BCM and adjust setting at or beyond the dealer level like can be done on other makes.
I don’t know if this is the case on your 2015 but I just learned that my truck’s got a sort of back door to some features. You get there in the settings menu and tap the “about” button rapidly at least 7 times. Some of it’s over my head but others like the speed display buttons react is pretty cool.
 

Big Mama

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Well here is my progress update. Im in shock about the price of these shocks! This 2017 Tahoe is a pain-in-the-ass money pit! It sits at my house more than it's been driven. And compared to my 04 Yukon w/ 285K, I just dont trust it!!! I can't enjoy driving it because I'm too worried that something new is going to break. Too pretty, too fancy, TOO HIGH MAINTENANCE!
I thought you already priced them. There are options for OE style electronic shocks out there. The big issues on some models of your generation are AC condensers, torque converters, and lifters. But every generation has its own issues. Drive it and enjoy it. If the shocks are still ok dont sweat it until you need to. The more you drive it the more you’ll see a glaring difference between your two rigs……I hope anyway. Grab your own scan tool and look up codes. It’s not expensive or difficult. As you can see there are lots of folks here to help.
 
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dejackson1064

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I don’t know if this is the case on your 2015 but I just learned that my truck’s got a sort of back door to some features. You get there in the settings menu and tap the “about” button rapidly at least 7 times. Some of it’s over my head but others like the speed display buttons react is pretty cool.
Again I appreciate all the advice. Thank you. And to that point yes I probably did go cheap like the other guy and probably bought a vehicle with more miles than I would have liked and probably should have respected the fact had a further inspection done but at this point it's water in the bridge I'm just shocked about what some of these parts cost. I guess you got to pay to play it's a beautiful vehicle and I love the creature comfort that it offers I don't know that me specifically need all that but I do appreciate it as I get older. Thank you again for all the advice going to have to work a lot overtime to afford the ACDelco OEM shocks
 

philbar715

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I bought these shocks below for my 2015 Yukon SLT. It has the z85 suspension code and the 3.42 towing package gears. No magnaride. Only had them on for about 500 miles but they are much better than the other knock off shocks that the previous owner put on (they put on a knock off brand magnaride air shock because it had the air connector and an electrical connector that was just dangling)


 

Loki223

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I don’t know if this is the case on your 2015 but I just learned that my truck’s got a sort of back door to some features. You get there in the settings menu and tap the “about” button rapidly at least 7 times. Some of it’s over my head but others like the speed display buttons react is pretty cool.

i'll look into it and see if i can get into the backend on my 15 that way, i don't think it works based off a quick google search....but i'll see.

Again I appreciate all the advice. Thank you. And to that point yes I probably did go cheap like the other guy and probably bought a vehicle with more miles than I would have liked and probably should have respected the fact had a further inspection done but at this point it's water in the bridge I'm just shocked about what some of these parts cost. I guess you got to pay to play it's a beautiful vehicle and I love the creature comfort that it offers I don't know that me specifically need all that but I do appreciate it as I get older. Thank you again for all the advice going to have to work a lot overtime to afford the ACDelco OEM shocks

Yeah modern features and amenities cost money. but so do old ones. Back when i was young i bought a 74 K5 blazer for $900, it was 30 years old. nobody cared about it. Ran and drove, that's what i cared about. That same truck would probably be 30k today, unrestored, rust spots and all. 20 years ago $500 could buy you a running and driving car. that had a decent chance at being reliable. These days, not so much. if i could ever find a 73-75 K5 again for a decent price, i'd ****** it up in a heartbeat. but thoughts like that are what dreams are made of
 
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dejackson1064

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Anybody have any experience or advice on ordering products from 'American Trucks'? Specifically rear air shocks with MagneRide?
 

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