Second Battery

[bluebear15]

Has anyone ever mounted a second battery in the engine bay? I noticed one might fit on the passenger side by the firewall and A/C. I had a second battery mounted in the stock location on my 97 Tahoe (was there for the diesel option) to run my stereo setup and wanted to do the same thing now on my 06 Z71.

 

[Blackie]

Like this?

Part 1:

Part 2:

 

[bluebear15]

Like this?

Part 1:

Part 2:

Thanks! That would be what I'm looking to do. Is there a battery tray you can buy for that?

 

[Blackie]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GenuineGM-R...ash=item33a12de78e:g:TKcAAOSwA3dYPGsk&vxp=mtr

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-15246518-Battery-Tray-Right/dp/B00GTJV9RY

 

[bluebear15]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GenuineGM-R...ash=item33a12de78e:g:TKcAAOSwA3dYPGsk&vxp=mtr

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-15246518-Battery-Tray-Right/dp/B00GTJV9RY

Thanks!

 

[tRidiot]

I did this some time ago... now I want to upgrade that battery to a Group 31 AGM battery, if possible, as well as add another, 3rd battery, also a Group 31 AGM. Main battery is for the truck off of one 145A alternator, other 2 batteries for my stereo off a 2nd 300A alternator.

I was thinking I saw some years back where someone removed their air intake box, put on a shortened aftermarket one and put a 3rd battery in place there. I can't remember where I saw it. I'll need to find some larger trays than the one above, which I already have, but won't fit a Group 31 battery. I see a lot of plastic ones out there, but to support a 70+ lb battery under the hood, it's going to have to be solid.

I'm open to ideas, if anyone has any.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Here is the writeup I did on my dual battery install last year.

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/my-dual-battery-writeup.86230/

I looked into going with a bigger battery. Unfortunately, unless you're willing to move a lot of stuff around it's going to be tough to get anything larger than a Group 34/78 battery into the stock location.

 

[PG01]

Fyi nnbs come stock batt back by the a/c i put my second up front where nbs stock loc is. Not too much of a diff in the teo trucks.... you jst have to get a tray for back there...

 

[tRidiot]

FYI, I ended up putting in an Odyssey 34/78 AGM battery in the 2nd location near the passenger firewall. That thing is a beast.

I've separated all my audio electrical from the truck's system (except the headunit) and all my electrical troubles are gone. Love it. I've got 3 alts, one stock 145A to run the truck, an Ohio Generator 300A unit for the system, and a dead placeholder in spot #3. I was planning on a 2nd high output alt, but as of now, I don't really need it, so I'm just chilling with 2 functioning at the moment.

For those who are running high-wattage sound systems, I can't recommend Ohio Gen enough. Don't bother with the "bargain" alts you see on Ebay and such - there's a reason they are cheaper - they're not built to the same standards. I went through a number of cheaper alts, including running 3 remanufactured stock alts with a multiple alternator control unit, always had problems, questions of if they were working right, etc. Finally just went all-in with the totally separated electrical system for my audio and everything is copacetic.




<edit> BTW, running about... mmmm... 7400 watts, I think. Of true, solid, clean Zapco power.

 

[crx88ia]

FYI, I ended up putting in an Odyssey 34/78 AGM battery in the 2nd location near the passenger firewall. That thing is a beast.

I've separated all my audio electrical from the truck's system (except the headunit) and all my electrical troubles are gone. Love it. I've got 3 alts, one stock 145A to run the truck, an Ohio Generator 300A unit for the system, and a dead placeholder in spot #3. I was planning on a 2nd high output alt, but as of now, I don't really need it, so I'm just chilling with 2 functioning at the moment.

For those who are running high-wattage sound systems, I can't recommend Ohio Gen enough. Don't bother with the "bargain" alts you see on Ebay and such - there's a reason they are cheaper - they're not built to the same standards. I went through a number of cheaper alts, including running 3 remanufactured stock alts with a multiple alternator control unit, always had problems, questions of if they were working right, etc. Finally just went all-in with the totally separated electrical system for my audio and everything is copacetic.




<edit> BTW, running about... mmmm... 7400 watts, I think. Of true, solid, clean Zapco power.

Dude this needs it's own thread

 

[tRidiot]

Dude this needs it's own thread

What does?

 

[crx88ia]

Your install!

 

[tRidiot]

Oh, haha. Yeah, I guess maybe so. I've got it pretty hidden for the most part, so it's not fancy.

I'll see if I can find some pics to post up. Running Image Dynamics HLCD's under the dash, which is about all you can see. After going through many iterations in the doors, I ran Exodus Audio Anarchys, then CDT ES-06+, both in in-door fiberglass pods (hidden behind the doorpanels), now have gone with the massive midbass setup with 2 Stereo Integrity TM65 mkII midbasses per door.

Zapco Z150.6 for the front stage (behind left rear trim panel), Zapco ZX6.5kd for sub duty (under center console, with a 5F Stinger cap).

Have 2 sub setups. 2 12" TC Sounds TC9s in a ~3.2 or so ported box that fits completely hidden behind the 3rd row seats for when I have the family riding. Big box essentially butts up to the 2nd row seats and runs to the back, just under the window line with 3 JBL W15GTi mkIIs. This is for being stupid loud. lol

I made a custom quick-disconnect cable for the smaller box to be able to swap it in and out while hot with no chance of shorts.

Processor right now is a MiniDSP C-DSP 6x8, which replaced a Zapco Z8 unit a few months back.

 

[crx88ia]

There's plenty of space in that trim panel.

Running a 15k watt burp amplifier is no joke. Been a while since I heard my eyes go blurry. Does it do hair tricks?

 

[tRidiot]

There's plenty of space in that trim panel.

Running a 15k watt burp amplifier is no joke. Been a while since I heard my eyes go blurry. Does it do hair tricks?

Nah, never tried it. Just too much airspace in a Tahoe. If I built a wall, maybe. But I haven't ever really pushed it, just that I commute 3 hours a day, so I like to have alot on tap, even if I don't utilize it.

 

[Searay45db]

Gents, this is great, but you have to remember some basics.

1. When you do this, you have to replace all of the batteries at the same time, and they have to all be the same.

2. What is your real objective? Jump Start yourself? Be able to parallel yourself for running a winch or other heavy load?

3. Do not go cheap on the cable. If you do, your going to have other problems.

4. I have been running dual batteries for years and years. Back to the 80's.

5. If you are doing this on a diesel, it's a lot different than gas. Diesels is stock, becasue you need more than one battery for the CCA's to turn the engine over.

When you figure out why, make sure you have an alternator that can recharge you.

Jus tome things to thin about....

 

[Martinjmpr]

Gents, this is great, but you have to remember some basics.

1. When you do this, you have to replace all of the batteries at the same time, and they have to all be the same.

No, that's only true if you are hooking up batteries in series or if they will be connected to each other all the time (i.e. with no isolator.) If you're running an isolator like I am you can have different batteries at each end (obviously of the same voltage) although it helps if they're both the same type (FLA, AGM, gel) since each of these battery types has a different charging profile.

In my case, my starter battery is a Deka 55ah AGM and my house battery is a 68ah X2 (which I think is a NorthStar, but not sure) also an AGM. The only time my batteries are connected is when the ignition is on, once the ignition is off my house battery is isolated from the starter battery. That lets me run a refrigerator (Truckfridge TF-41, 41 quart) in my truck without having to worry about discharging the starter battery and being stuck.

On our trailer, I am running 2 x 6v golf cart batteries (connected in series to give me 12v.) In that case, yes, I made sure the batteries were identical, purchased at the same time and same place, since my two batteries are, in essence, forming one BIG battery (230ah of capacity.)

 

[Searay45db]

No, that's only true if you are hooking up batteries in series or if they will be connected to each other all the time (i.e. with no isolator.) If you're running an isolator like I am you can have different batteries at each end (obviously of the same voltage) although it helps if they're both the same type (FLA, AGM, gel) since each of these battery types has a different charging profile.

In my case, my starter battery is a Deka 55ah AGM and my house battery is a 68ah X2 (which I think is a NorthStar, but not sure) also an AGM. The only time my batteries are connected is when the ignition is on, once the ignition is off my house battery is isolated from the starter battery. That lets me run a refrigerator (Truckfridge TF-41, 41 quart) in my truck without having to worry about discharging the starter battery and being stuck.

On our trailer, I am running 2 x 6v golf cart batteries (connected in series to give me 12v.) In that case, yes, I made sure the batteries were identical, purchased at the same time and same place, since my two batteries are, in essence, forming one BIG battery (230ah of capacity.)

No, that's only true if you are hooking up batteries in series or if they will be connected to each other all the time (i.e. with no isolator.) If you're running an isolator like I am you can have different batteries at each end (obviously of the same voltage) although it helps if they're both the same type (FLA, AGM, gel) since each of these battery types has a different charging profile.

In my case, my starter battery is a Deka 55ah AGM and my house battery is a 68ah X2 (which I think is a NorthStar, but not sure) also an AGM. The only time my batteries are connected is when the ignition is on, once the ignition is off my house battery is isolated from the starter battery. That lets me run a refrigerator (Truckfridge TF-41, 41 quart) in my truck without having to worry about discharging the starter battery and being stuck.

On our trailer, I am running 2 x 6v golf cart batteries (connected in series to give me 12v.) In that case, yes, I made sure the batteries were identical, purchased at the same time and same place, since my two batteries are, in essence, forming one BIG battery (230ah of capacity.)

Sorry, but have to disagree. I run my with an isolator. Yes, parallel you also do, reason is simple, is you are isolating for specific reasons. I isolate so I can jump start my self. It premature fails them. My Interstate Dealer who sell's me batteries whole sale informed me. (I have three boats.) I buy more batteries than Wal-mart. With the boat that has diesel, you parallel just so you have enough CCA's to turn over. I have tried to do it without matching with an Isolater, and I can isolate on the Diesel Boat, it has twins, so I have several banks, and they still kill each other.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Sorry, but have to disagree. I run my with an isolator. Yes, parallel you also do, reason is simple, is you are isolating for specific reasons. I isolate so I can jump start my self. It premature fails them. My Interstate Dealer who sell's me batteries whole sale informed me. (I have three boats.) I buy more batteries than Wal-mart. With the boat that has diesel, you parallel just so you have enough CCA's to turn over. I have tried to do it without matching with an Isolater, and I can isolate on the Diesel Boat, it has twins, so I have several banks, and they still kill each other.

Been running with my setup for over a year and 15,000 miles now. Both batteries are running strong, no issues.

I think we're talking apples and oranges here. Your setup uses multiple batteries so that you have enough amps to do the work required. In essence, you are using multiple batteries hooked together in parallel so as to make up one big "Super battery." In a case like that, I agree, the batteries need to be the same make, model, size, amp rating and age.

My setup is not like that. My batteries do different work for different purposes. My main battery is the starter battery and runs my truck. My house battery only runs the 12v power outlet I installed in the left rear fender cover in the cargo area to run my fridge. The only time the batteries are connected is when the ignition is on and when the ignition is on, the engine is running and both batteries are being charged by the alternator. The only time the batteries are connected they are being charged. Once I shut off the ignition the batteries aren't connected to each other anymore.

If I was in the habit of leaving my ignition on (and thus the batteries connected) when the engine was not running, then yes I agree, the smaller battery would kill the bigger one. But I don't do that - as I said, if my ignition is on, my engine is running and therefore the alternator is running and charging both batteries.

 

[bluebear15]

For those using an isolator, how did you connect the larger gauge wire (in my case 2 gauge) to the main battery that is side post? I know the top posts have those nice adapters that split off nicely but I'm having trouble finding something like that for side post.