Rough idle part 3 with a Vengeance

[BG1988]

/ so were back after a 250 miles of Thahoe working great again

were back to rough idle
NO CEL 3 drive cycles

25.4MPG HYW was on my last 154mile trip..

so it does not seem to be effecting fuel mileage
..

I have been using the BEST Consumer gas (No way i'm spending 9.89 a gallon on 100 octane unleaded) on the market 91 octane at Chevron (currently less then mobil )


Rear brakes don't work (or at lest minimal stopping power)

parking brake ok

why does it take so long to stop

have higher speeds here in my city like 45 to 60mph on some (40-45mph is typical most go 5 to 7mph over the limit since you got a 10MPH grace period)

I noticed more and more that I end up stopping in the middle of the street... about 15-20 feet passed the stopline , and I have to do the "backup of shame"


on my old Chevy impala it had like 3x the stopping power
you barely press the brake and it bites the rotors nice and hard.. like brakes should(that is the only thing that WORKED great on it and the radio )


it feels like the REARs are doing very little braking power..

is it normal for the brake fluid reservoir to drop like 50% when the engine is started?


if the dealer does not help that i bough it from i'm just going to file a claim on the Surety bond I got them because they Put the wrong mileage on the SUV title
which Caused me a financial loss if i wanted to sell it as it's permanently attached on it (it's been noted on carfax ,autocheck etc..) . with a roll back.. ( that means the value is less because of unknown mileage )

I know KBB says a tahoe with 840,000 is worth $7500 that is a joke

it's worth scrap value $350.. in real life



i'd be lucky to get 2500$ with that error on the title and with the issues it has

 

[kbuskill]

Am I the only one confused???

Title says rough idle... 2-3 sentences about that... then 7-8 about brakes...

Disjointed rambling

 

[Doubeleive]

to answer the one question, on a normal gas truck no the brake fluid does not drop 50%, it does not drop or move at all unless you have a leak and it came out somewhere

 

[wjburken]

is it normal for the brake fluid reservoir to drop like 50% when the engine is started?

The only thing that I can think of that would cause this is if you have a leak between your master cylinder and the booster so that when your engine starts the vacuum pulls it out. Now, if the fluid comes back when the engine stops, I got nothing.

Might be why your brakes are a little weak.

 

[Rocket Man]

I saw in another thread you posted a video and one of your comments was “don’t get mad when the brake fluid drops when the engine starts, that’s what it’s supposed to do” or something like that. So I guess it’s supposed to because you said so. I can’t figure out wtf you’re saying anymore, you don’t make sense. And your title says 840,000 miles? Yikes. Time to burn it down for the insurance money.

 

[Doubeleive]

I saw in another thread you posted a video and one of your comments was “don’t get mad when the brake fluid drops when the engine starts, that’s what it’s supposed to do” or something like that. So I guess it’s supposed to because you said so. I can’t figure out wtf you’re saying anymore, you don’t make sense. And your title says 840,000 miles? Yikes. Time to burn it down for the insurance money.

 

[BG1988]

I saw in another thread you posted a video and one of your comments was “don’t get mad when the brake fluid drops when the engine starts, that’s what it’s supposed to do” or something like that. So I guess it’s supposed to because you said so. I can’t figure out wtf you’re saying anymore, you don’t make sense. And your title says 840,000 miles? Yikes. Time to burn it down for the insurance money.

the part on the engine idle it's a different Rhythm then before

seems like a misfire at idle
as the MAF reports a drop by 0.2 g/s

now I gotta spend a shit load of money replacing random parts damn..

ON to the brakes

actually I thought it was normal tell I noticed my rear brakes don't work at all they don't even get hot or warm when braking hard..
I hear crackling noise from the driver side rear( while parked) .and squealing from the other side. (in motion) . flat level ground.

Yes the reservoir does refill after the engine is turned off.. that is why it seemed normal..



Actually i'm filing a claim on the used car dealer surety bond ...... they are not helping with the title issue..... All i get from them is excuses that they will call me back in 30 min or an hour etc..... they really don't want to deal with it.... it's been 6 months.. I gotten tired of the excuses from them.. and they know they are liable for the broken brakes in the rear. aswell.


The title was seized by the DMV. when i inquired about the error on the title.. all i got in return was some probationary paper work for it..


I can't even drive the damn thing ( as a lot of times I end up stopped in the middle of the intersection) as it has significantly increased the stopping distance, it adds 20 to 40 feet to the stopping distance .... which is unacceptable.(that means if stopping from 50mph i'm not stopped tell the middle of the intersection)

it has been this way since i bought it I thought it was just that way because it was heavier then the car i used to drive.. as the GMT800 silverado had just has crappy brakes (where the brake lines just expand and not do the braking thing)


and for the record now I know why the front fender had damage when i bought it..
No working brakes!



the brake lines might be clogged up that goes to the rear maybe the tampered with the ABS and brake module computer (using resistors) to trick it into working and not displaying a Brake error code, CEL or reduced engine power etc...





the only one time i know it worked is when it had the momentary power loss, that one time . it stopped on a dime when all 4 wheels locked up, skidding to a stop.

this might be a indication that the computer has been tampered with.. or one of the computers is faulty

 

[Kraig]

It’s your MAP sensor. They’re totally not required, but they fill up with brake fluid when the engine is running if you spend less than $10/gallon on fuel

 

[iamdub]

It’s your MAP sensor. They’re totally not required, but they fill up with brake fluid when the engine is running if you spend less than $10/gallon on fuel

What da hell are you talking about? Didn't you read the title? The thread is very clearly about someone overdriving a known (and vengeful) braking issue.

 

[BG1988]

What da hell are you talking about? Didn't you read the title? The thread is very clearly about someone overdriving a known (and vengeful) braking issue.

No I tested it Braking HARD as possible only the front rotors got hot... the rear rotors were stone cold about 80F

it's 95F outside( was parked in the shade)..

 

[Doubeleive]

is the brake warning light on in the cluster?
have you taken off the wheels and looked at the brake pads and general condition?
either way almost all basic shops and dealers will perform a brake inspection for free
although I would avoid pep boys like they were the source of the ebola virus

 

[Rocket Man]

is the brake warning light on in the cluster?
have you taken off the wheels and looked at the brake pads and general condition?
either way almost all basic shops and dealers will perform a brake inspection for free
although I would avoid pep boys like they were the source of the ebola virus

Aw come on, Pep Boys are the most awesome everrrr. They even add oil to places you’d never think needed oil. Like a MAP sensor. Which of course isn’t even needed but WILL make your engine rev to like 10,000 rpm when oiled properly. Or improperly, I forget.

 

[Kraig]

What da hell are you talking about? Didn't you read the title? The thread is very clearly about someone overdriving a known (and vengeful) braking issue.

The MAP sensor, which is totally NOT required, is a source of regenerative braking on hybrid models. It works so well in fact (some might say vengefully—I wouldn’t, but some might) that it turns the excess power generated into full commanded throttle, which the EBCM sees as a request for ‘go fast’ and releases the rear brakes. All the best PepBoiz techs know about this and will change your oil accordingly.

 

[iamdub]

The MAP sensor, which is totally NOT required, is a source of regenerative braking on hybrid models. It works so well in fact (some might say vengefully—I wouldn’t, but some might) that it turns the excess power generated into full commanded throttle, which the EBCM sees as a request for ‘go fast’ and releases the rear brakes. All the best PepBoiz techs know about this and will change your oil accordingly.

You, sir, are a WIZARD! Could you PM me your formula for dividing by zero? I wanna crack the time-space continuum and, ultimately, refill my fuel tank by running my engine in reverse with the exhaust routed into the intake. I'll also replace my air filter with a handful of MAP sensors for good measure.

 

[Rocket Man]

I wanna crack the time-space continuum and, ultimately, refill my fuel tank by running my engine in reverse with the exhaust routed into the intake.

I thought that only worked south of the equator? Kind of like the drain water goes reverse down there. I heard when you flush the toilet in, say Australia, it actually fills it up and your poop disappears into the atmosphere which is actually why global warming occurs.

 

[iamdub]

I thought that only worked south of the equator? Kind of like the drain water goes reverse down there.

https://www.simpsonsworld.com/video/311758403950

I heard when you flush the toilet in, say Australia, it actually fills it up and your poop disappears into the atmosphere which is actually why global warming occurs.

Total BS. It doesn't "disappear into the atmosphere"...












... It rematerializes in the cesspool known as "New Orleans" where it festers and bastes in the wet Gulf air. The clouds of decomposing matter are consumed by bacteria which, in turn, expel their own cloud of excrement potpourri. The now "twice-baked" bacterial fart is superheated and wafts over the nation, raising the overall average temperatures.

I keep my nose to the North.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Anybody else betting that the red bulbs on the rear of this Tahoe are solid the whole time it is creating 1000ft. "traffic breaks" from the left lane?

 

[PG01]

Wow.... cant believe I missed this.... lmfao

 

[thompsoj22]

the part on the engine idle it's a different Rhythm then before

seems like a misfire at idle
as the MAF reports a drop by 0.2 g/s

now I gotta spend a shit load of money replacing random parts damn..

ON to the brakes

actually I thought it was normal tell I noticed my rear brakes don't work at all they don't even get hot or warm when braking hard..
I hear crackling noise from the driver side rear( while parked) .and squealing from the other side. (in motion) . flat level ground.

Yes the reservoir does refill after the engine is turned off.. that is why it seemed normal..



Actually i'm filing a claim on the used car dealer surety bond ...... they are not helping with the title issue..... All i get from them is excuses that they will call me back in 30 min or an hour etc..... they really don't want to deal with it.... it's been 6 months.. I gotten tired of the excuses from them.. and they know they are liable for the broken brakes in the rear. aswell.


The title was seized by the DMV. when i inquired about the error on the title.. all i got in return was some probationary paper work for it..


I can't even drive the damn thing ( as a lot of times I end up stopped in the middle of the intersection) as it has significantly increased the stopping distance, it adds 20 to 40 feet to the stopping distance .... which is unacceptable.(that means if stopping from 50mph i'm not stopped tell the middle of the intersection)

it has been this way since i bought it I thought it was just that way because it was heavier then the car i used to drive.. as the GMT800 silverado had just has crappy brakes (where the brake lines just expand and not do the braking thing)


and for the record now I know why the front fender had damage when i bought it..
No working brakes!



the brake lines might be clogged up that goes to the rear maybe the tampered with the ABS and brake module computer (using resistors) to trick it into working and not displaying a Brake error code, CEL or reduced engine power etc...





the only one time i know it worked is when it had the momentary power loss, that one time . it stopped on a dime when all 4 wheels locked up, skidding to a stop.

this might be a indication that the computer has been tampered with.. or one of the computers is faulty

air in the rear brake circuit including the ABS pump/manifold block. The pump runs momentarily when the ign is cycled. Your vehicle is fubar! The dealer hosed you and they really dont fear any legal threats, You bought it, Read the used car purchase agreement, "YOU OWN IT". Just fix it!

 

[BG1988]

air in the rear brake circuit including the ABS pump/manifold block. The pump runs momentarily when the ign is cycled. Your vehicle is fubar! The dealer hosed you and they really dont fear any legal threats, You bought it, Read the used car purchase agreement, "YOU OWN IT". Just fix it!

No I claimed on the dealers BOND

once the claim is approved
They are out of business

as the bond is withdrawn and they have to pay back the amount paid. upto $50,000..

James Bond (joke)


There is a active investigation underway ..


the brakes were faulty

it's grinding metal to metal HARD now that there is no pad left
while braking now and the pads only have about 30% left on the rear right (but grinding bad inner pad is gone)

100% guarantee PADS don't wear out in 6,000 miles

I had 20k on my last car (sold it after 20k) the Brakes was the only thing I guaranteed when i sold it...



THIS is a hybrid so me operator will not be using the FRICTION brakes that often


in say in 60-70 miles i could barely even need to use the friction brakes ( assuming freeway miles) as the
Dynamic Regeneration does most of the work to slow a few mph down etc.. OR i can use Engine Braking by putting it in M + Dynamic Braking Regeneration as well.. I can increase the Dynamic braking drag by turning up the A/C to MAX POWER MY SUV is a ICE BOX after awhile.. A chilliy 34F



poor suckers in that 100F heat


that is my point i rarely use the FRICTION brakes that is why it became unnoticeable for so long.. I rather MAKE power from slowing down to put back into my industrial Sized Electric 300v 5.5KW Air conditioner



In California I'm entitled to have a FULLY functional braking system before Point Of Sale which clearly has not been delivered upon sale.

it's pretty clear they sold it with faulty brakes if there is air like you say in the system =they did a BAD JOB=



ALSO the FLUID is DIRTY that means they did not bother to even change it before point of sale..




BRAKES don't wear out in 5,000 miles ( started after the brakes locked up total ,after a total power loss like the 2015 had)



Calipers just don't break unless they screwed upon reinstall i.e broken boot or did not grease them etc..

I had 180,000 miles on my 2003 W-body No problem original Calipers ..

the mechanic I had work on the did a perfect job
They STOPPED on a DIME.

like you could get whiplash just barely pressing them..... MEGA stopping power..

i'm so sad they went out of business.. (The Master mechanic passed away)