Rough idle part 3 with a Vengeance

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BG1988

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/ so were back after a 250 miles of Thahoe working great again

were back to rough idle
NO CEL 3 drive cycles

25.4MPG HYW was on my last 154mile trip..

so it does not seem to be effecting fuel mileage
..

I have been using the BEST Consumer gas (No way i'm spending 9.89 a gallon on 100 octane unleaded) on the market 91 octane at Chevron (currently less then mobil )


Rear brakes don't work (or at lest minimal stopping power)

parking brake ok

why does it take so long to stop

have higher speeds here in my city like 45 to 60mph on some (40-45mph is typical most go 5 to 7mph over the limit since you got a 10MPH grace period)

I noticed more and more that I end up stopping in the middle of the street... about 15-20 feet passed the stopline , and I have to do the "backup of shame"


on my old Chevy impala it had like 3x the stopping power
you barely press the brake and it bites the rotors nice and hard.. like brakes should(that is the only thing that WORKED great on it and the radio :p )


it feels like the REARs are doing very little braking power..

is it normal for the brake fluid reservoir to drop like 50% when the engine is started?


if the dealer does not help that i bough it from i'm just going to file a claim on the Surety bond I got them because they Put the wrong mileage on the SUV title
which Caused me a financial loss if i wanted to sell it as it's permanently attached on it (it's been noted on carfax ,autocheck etc..) . with a roll back.. ( that means the value is less because of unknown mileage )

I know KBB says a tahoe with 840,000 is worth $7500 that is a joke

it's worth scrap value $350.. in real life



i'd be lucky to get 2500$ with that error on the title and with the issues it has
 
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kbuskill

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Am I the only one confused???

Title says rough idle... 2-3 sentences about that... then 7-8 about brakes...

Disjointed rambling:shrug:
 

Doubeleive

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to answer the one question, on a normal gas truck no the brake fluid does not drop 50%, it does not drop or move at all unless you have a leak and it came out somewhere
 

wjburken

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is it normal for the brake fluid reservoir to drop like 50% when the engine is started?

The only thing that I can think of that would cause this is if you have a leak between your master cylinder and the booster so that when your engine starts the vacuum pulls it out. Now, if the fluid comes back when the engine stops, I got nothing.

Might be why your brakes are a little weak.
 

Rocket Man

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I saw in another thread you posted a video and one of your comments was “don’t get mad when the brake fluid drops when the engine starts, that’s what it’s supposed to do” or something like that. So I guess it’s supposed to because you said so. I can’t figure out wtf you’re saying anymore, you don’t make sense. And your title says 840,000 miles? Yikes. Time to burn it down for the insurance money.
 

Doubeleive

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I saw in another thread you posted a video and one of your comments was “don’t get mad when the brake fluid drops when the engine starts, that’s what it’s supposed to do” or something like that. So I guess it’s supposed to because you said so. I can’t figure out wtf you’re saying anymore, you don’t make sense. And your title says 840,000 miles? Yikes. Time to burn it down for the insurance money.
:gr_grin:
 
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BG1988

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I saw in another thread you posted a video and one of your comments was “don’t get mad when the brake fluid drops when the engine starts, that’s what it’s supposed to do” or something like that. So I guess it’s supposed to because you said so. I can’t figure out wtf you’re saying anymore, you don’t make sense. And your title says 840,000 miles? Yikes. Time to burn it down for the insurance money.




the part on the engine idle it's a different Rhythm then before

seems like a misfire at idle
as the MAF reports a drop by 0.2 g/s

now I gotta spend a shit load of money replacing random parts damn..

ON to the brakes

actually I thought it was normal tell I noticed my rear brakes don't work at all they don't even get hot or warm when braking hard..
I hear crackling noise from the driver side rear( while parked) .and squealing from the other side. (in motion) . flat level ground.

Yes the reservoir does refill after the engine is turned off.. that is why it seemed normal..



Actually i'm filing a claim on the used car dealer surety bond ...... they are not helping with the title issue..... All i get from them is excuses that they will call me back in 30 min or an hour etc..... they really don't want to deal with it.... it's been 6 months.. I gotten tired of the excuses from them.. and they know they are liable for the broken brakes in the rear. aswell.


The title was seized by the DMV. when i inquired about the error on the title.. all i got in return was some probationary paper work for it..


I can't even drive the damn thing ( as a lot of times I end up stopped in the middle of the intersection) as it has significantly increased the stopping distance, it adds 20 to 40 feet to the stopping distance .... which is unacceptable.(that means if stopping from 50mph i'm not stopped tell the middle of the intersection)

it has been this way since i bought it I thought it was just that way because it was heavier then the car i used to drive.. as the GMT800 silverado had just has crappy brakes (where the brake lines just expand and not do the braking thing)


and for the record now I know why the front fender had damage when i bought it..
No working brakes!



the brake lines might be clogged up that goes to the rear maybe the tampered with the ABS and brake module computer (using resistors) to trick it into working :eek::eek::eek: and not displaying a Brake error code, CEL or reduced engine power etc...





the only one time i know it worked is when it had the momentary power loss, that one time . it stopped on a dime when all 4 wheels locked up, skidding to a stop.

this might be a indication that the computer has been tampered with.. or one of the computers is faulty
 
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Kraig

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It’s your MAP sensor. They’re totally not required, but they fill up with brake fluid when the engine is running if you spend less than $10/gallon on fuel
 

iamdub

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It’s your MAP sensor. They’re totally not required, but they fill up with brake fluid when the engine is running if you spend less than $10/gallon on fuel

What da hell are you talking about? Didn't you read the title? The thread is very clearly about someone overdriving a known (and vengeful) braking issue.
 
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BG1988

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What da hell are you talking about? Didn't you read the title? The thread is very clearly about someone overdriving a known (and vengeful) braking issue.
No I tested it Braking HARD as possible only the front rotors got hot... the rear rotors were stone cold about 80F

it's 95F outside( was parked in the shade)..
 
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