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So can it still go off the maf, but just not report the code?Oh yeah thats as easy as telling the computer to not throw a code for that anymore.
So can it still go off the maf, but just not report the code?
Once I get my bb tune I'll request they do that for me. Thx Dan.You would have him set it to "No MIL reported"
Amazing! No misfires. I don't even know what that would be like.I thought it’s been running better. I’m not sure when it started doing it because I’ve been concentrating on the trans so much. When I found that broken vacuum line in my supercharger bypass I was wondering where it plumbed into because my misfires were happening in the middle cylinders. I was seeing 20-40 per cylinder in a 100-cycle count. I’m not sure if that vacuum hose fixed it or if it was something else I did but I’m getting zero misfires now. It was starting to throw P0300 random misfires pretty regularly. I know that hose should account for a MAF code and not so much a misfire code but maybe that hose plumbs into an intake runner? I’m not sure but I’m happy. View attachment 346542
It’s been a year and a half (or more) that it’s been misfiring, I thought it was the intake gasket on the blower and I put off pulling it because it’s a bear to R&R. I think that had a small leak and kept getting worse until it completely came apart and I noticed it. It’s back by the firewall and hard to see. The truck has never run better. I’m really happy right now. I went from stressing thinking about the worst case scenarios with the trans and the bad misfires to now, where everything is as good as I could hope for. Amazing.Amazing! No misfires. I don't even know what that would be like.
Go look for that WRX again!It’s been a year and a half (or more) that it’s been misfiring, I thought it was the intake gasket on the blower and I put off pulling it because it’s a bear to R&R. I think that had a small leak and kept getting worse until it completely came apart and I noticed it. It’s back by the firewall and hard to see. The truck has never run better. I’m really happy right now. I went from stressing thinking about the worst case scenarios with the trans and the bad misfires to now, where everything is as good as I could hope for. Amazing.![]()
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It was already running good at that point, probably why I was able to give him a run.Go look for that WRX again!
I at least have a better idea now, since I learned that code was causing the limp mode. Nobody told me that was the case, just Performabuilt said they’d like me to disable it to see what happens. I didn’t know if the limp mode was causing the code or vice versa so it was confusing. So now I know it was the 3-2 solenoid that was the cause of everything I’m thinking it was a break in the internal harness. It’s kind of the only thing that makes sense, due to how it kept getting worse over time. Likely a wire at the connector that was almost broken and with the fluid movement it finally broke it completely. I didn’t even think to inspect it when I replaced the solenoids. I’m not sure why, I guess I was just figuring I was gonna swap that solenoid and it would be fixed.So now, I wonder if the harness does have an issue, hence the sudden code, or if the new solenoid you bought was bad out of the box? Its crazy that it ran fine for so long and then suddenly didn't, even without that code disabled
Did performabuilt say what they did to make the trans not need the 3-2 solenoid?
I'm thinking you are correct. I like having an idea of what went wrong for future issues I may run across. This seems the mostly likely cause and the trans code was causing the limp mode.I at least have a better idea now, since I learned that code was causing the limp mode. Nobody told me that was the case, just Performabuilt said they’d like me to disable it to see what happens. I didn’t know if the limp mode was causing the code or vice versa so it was confusing. So now I know it was the 3-2 solenoid that was the cause of everything I’m thinking it was a break in the internal harness. It’s kind of the only thing that makes sense, due to how it kept getting worse over time. Likely a wire at the connector that was almost broken and with the fluid movement it finally broke it completely. I didn’t even think to inspect it when I replaced the solenoids. I’m not sure why, I guess I was just figuring I was gonna swap that solenoid and it would be fixed.
As for Performabuilt’s build, they do a bunch of proprietary machining to different parts- even stuff they buy from companies like Sonnax. I know the valve body has some of this work done to it so I’m thinking that’s where they eliminate the need for that 3-2 downshift solenoid. But in reality I don’t know enough about transmissions to be able to guess any more than that. I do know their Black Edition 4l60e has never been broken no matter how much power has been thrown at it so they know what they’re doing. I was actually going to upgrade to that the last time it was in their hands but they talked me out of it, said it was way more than I needed plus parts were on pandemic backorder. The only times mine broke was both times right after I had done the 2000 mile filter & fluid change and used RTV on the pan gasket which clogged the servo passages and made them not release. The first time they didn’t catch it, and I did it again. They figured it out that time- it’s when I twisted the output shaft in two on a 1-2 WOT shift. It was way out of warranty by that time but they rebuilt it for free. I can’t say enough good things about them. They were emailing me in the evenings way after hours and in the weekends this last time around- I got one email from Frank at 9 PM their time. Dudes are awesome.
Thank you sir.Great truck
time to turn it upI got the ProLink for the HPT installed today so I’ll be able to include AFR and boost when I log data.
I had stashed the wiring from the AEM wideband right near the OBD port so it was super easy.
I made it so both cables that plug into the HPT can be stashed by popping the DS fuse cover off and putting them inside. The one that plugs into my laptop exits in the center console cubby. I labeled it because there’s a USB cable there for hooking the AEM to a laptop. I have to look at those instructions and see if I need to do that, I forgot if that’s just if I’m going to hook up the failsafe or what. I just wanted to get the wiring done for the ProLink so it’s ready.
I have no idea how yet.time to turn it up
Would it work to run an obd2 splitter? then you could have it all out of sight, and have it hooked up and ready to go at the same timeI made it so both cables that plug into the HPT can be stashed by popping the DS fuse cover off and putting them inside.