Rocket Man's 02 Denali Build Thread AKA "THE BEAST"

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05Single

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Little 3M plastic polish.
I think he means the old style diffuser lens. Think he wants clear to match the turns. But with pnp led bulbs he will hate the light output after being use to nali projectors and the silvy retro. I see some depo projectors in the hear future lol.
 
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Rocket Man

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Little 3M plastic polish.

Which LED's?

I’m not sure of the brand, and I forgot to look when I had the headlights out today duh. They have great output though. I’ll look again soon.

I think he means the old style diffuser lens. Think he wants clear to match the turns. But with pnp led bulbs he will hate the light output after being use to nali projectors and the silvy retro. I see some depo projectors in the hear future lol.

Yeah, they don’t look hazy. Only half of each one isn’t clear so Im guessing it’s the “diffuser lens” you mentioned.
 
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Rocket Man

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Upon closer inspection, the headlights are definitely not hazy, just have the diffuser lenses. I never heard of that before. Oh well. On another note, I decided to use the new TPMS sensors I bought for the new wheels I have waiting to go on the Silverado in order to get the message on the Tahoe's DIC to go away. (Just temporary until I need them for the new wheels, at which time I plan on pulling the old ones out of the old wheels and swapping them.) I hate warning messages. So I built a pipe bomb out of PVC pipe and put them inside and pressurized it. I tried to get them to get recognized by the Tahoe but increasing/decreasing the pressure didn't do it. I looked online, wondering if they needed to be activated, and found out they are stored in "off" mode and they needed to be activated. So I bought a tool to activate them. Still no luck, and then tonight I realized I'd bought an alldatadiy subscription for the truck when I was trying to diagnose the airbag issue. (That's another issue I've been working on.) So I checked the procedure for replacing a TPMS sensor and of course it isn't so easy:

"Important: A service replacement tire pressure sensor is shipped in OFF mode. In this mode the sensor unique identification code cannot be learned into the remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR) memory. The sensor must be taken out of OFF mode by spinning the tire/wheel assembly above 32 km/h (20 mph) in order to close the sensors internal roll switch for at least 10 seconds."

So now I'm trying to think of a way to spin them at 20 mph while they're in the pipe bomb.... any ideas? I could always cut the end cap off it, remove them, spin them somehow, and put a new end cap on...



91mYZ3FJdYL._SY879_.jpg
 

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I had my pipe bombs mounted on a paint roller and hit 'em with a blow gun from the air compressor to spin 'em really fast.

I did four separate ones since I was programming them using the DIC which requires airing down each one individually.

You could jack up a truck (any of your trucks) and duct tape it to a rear tire. I'd tape it to the tread so you won't have to clean duct tape adhesive off the wheel. Put it in drive and give it enough throttle to spin it at 20+ until they register.

Or, tape the pipe bomb to a fan. (Shop fan, desk fan, etc., not a car cooling fan)

Or, tie a rope to it, twist it round yo hand, spin it like a helicopter

 
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Rocket Man

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I like the helicopter idea lol. That video made me crack up. And no not that kind of crack. I just chucked my cordless drill to the air valve protruding out the end of the pipe bomb and spun it but I'm thinking it needs to be spun in a larger circle thus the helicopter idea. My neighbors are prolly thinking I'm up to something devious at this point, with me climbing in and out of my rig with a plastic pipe bomb, then turning my lights on and off 4 times and the horn beeping twice... crazy old man...lmao. Again and again...
 

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I like the helicopter idea lol. That video made me crack up. And no not that kind of crack. I just chucked my cordless drill to the air valve protruding out the end of the pipe bomb and spun it but I'm thinking it needs to be spun in a larger circle thus the helicopter idea. My neighbors are prolly thinking I'm up to something devious at this point, with me climbing in and out of my rig with a plastic pipe bomb, then turning my lights on and off 4 times and the horn beeping twice... crazy old man...lmao. Again and again...

They use centrifugal force to close the contacts inside them. Spinning them on the wrong axis won't do anything. Spinning on a larger radius will make it easier to replicate the forces created from a ~32" circle spinning at 20MPH.

Whatever you do, do it in broad daylight in your front yard while maintaining eye contact with your neighbors. Chanting gibberish never hurts, either.
 
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They use centrifugal force to close the contacts inside them. Spinning them on the wrong axis won't do anything. Spinning on a larger radius will make it easier to replicate the forces created from a ~32" circle spinning at 20MPH.

Whatever you do, do it in broad daylight in your front yard while maintaining eye contact with your neighbors. Chanting gibberish never hurts, either.
Ahhhh...I did it wrong, no wonder it didn’t work. I was in the back yard and it was dark lol. Tied a rope to the pipe bomb and spun the hell out of it. Guess I need to remove them from the pipe bomb. Then I’ll try the front yard/ chanting method in daylight although I’m thinking doing it in the dark might add some extra mystery to it especially with just a little backlighting.
 

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:popcorn:.. ..

I just have a question. You said you bought them for the silvy. Are you sure they'll work with the GMT800? I thought they were different. I know the K2XX ones won't work with nbs.
 
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:popcorn:.. ..

I just have a question. You said you bought them for the silvy. Are you sure they'll work with the GMT800? I thought they were different. I know the K2XX ones won't work with nbs.
I just checked again- I looked at the frequency before and they are the same but it looks like the part numbers are different. Crap.
 

kbuskill

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I just checked again- I looked at the frequency before and they are the same but it looks like the part numbers are different. Crap.

Part numbers shouldn't matter as long as the frequency is the same. Should be 315MHz if my memory serves me.
 

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