Rocket Man's 02 Denali Build Thread AKA "THE BEAST"

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Rocket Man

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Final shots of the completed job. This is definitely the best catch can I’ve ever seen but the price does reflect that. I’m super happy. Looking forward to installing the clean side separator.

15E542F0-7E2C-49F2-92CB-F7711A01A93A.jpeg F23A25C4-3ABB-4263-A267-0AD470DCDA86.jpeg 45AC76E7-33A2-4739-9518-F8367E7B79FA.jpeg 8698E6BE-2F4D-450A-9378-84FACC2335A1.jpeg
 

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Rocket Man

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After further research on the clean side separator I found this on Elite Engineering’s website:

Although app. 90-95% of the oil ingestion via the intake air charge enters via the "Dirty" or "foul" side of the PCV system, the other 5-10% enter via back flow through the factory "clean" or "fresh" side tube. This occurs mainly when accelerating or at wide open throttle when intake manifold vacuum drops to zero and crankcase pressure is allowed to build. This pressure will seek the path of least resistance, which is backwards flowing into the intake air bridge assembly bringing in oil mist and other contaminants into the intake air charge. While this will not cause severe issue with a port injection daily driven engine, it will cause detonation and reduced power and fuel economy, and in a performance engine, especially forced induction, this detonation is detrimental to power and the resulting knock retard is a negative tuners and owners should avoid, especially if the engine is run hard for extended periods such as road racing, drag racing, or aggressive driving period.




I also figured out how to install it by hitting up some forums and YouTube. There is a hose going from the passenger valve cover to the TB which actually connects to the CAI side of it, not the engine intake side like I thought. It’s just like connecting to the CAI tube like other instructions show. I just removed the hose from the valve cover, plugged the port on the valve cover with the supplied rubber cap, and connected the hose to the CSS. So instead of drawing air into the valve cover directly it goes through the CSS instead which traps any oil during vacuum and then releases it afterward into the oil fill hole. I didn’t have enough braided line included in the kit (wth) to use on this so I have some on order. I’ll replace the rubber hose when that comes in. The CSS installs in place of the oil filler cap by screwing its base on, then it just shoves down and has o-rings to seal it. It will make changing or adding oil a bit easier since you just pull up to remove it , no unscrewing. Oh and yes I will be painting my TB again, of finding a prettier one like a FAST billet one. ;)

C7B4DDD8-C3F7-4046-BCD4-B9DFFA26462A.jpeg A47E70BE-0EE3-41E3-8707-DD8111A95E5A.jpeg 52D42536-F7D6-4B8D-9AB3-55A23ED0BF66.jpeg 4197E53C-5999-480C-8636-C02A107266F0.jpeg EAD194D2-E139-4F4E-9A0D-DDFADD0D250D.jpeg
 

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After further research on the clean side separator I found this on Elite Engineering’s website:

Although app. 90-95% of the oil ingestion via the intake air charge enters via the "Dirty" or "foul" side of the PCV system, the other 5-10% enter via back flow through the factory "clean" or "fresh" side tube. This occurs mainly when accelerating or at wide open throttle when intake manifold vacuum drops to zero and crankcase pressure is allowed to build. This pressure will seek the path of least resistance, which is backwards flowing into the intake air bridge assembly bringing in oil mist and other contaminants into the intake air charge. While this will not cause severe issue with a port injection daily driven engine, it will cause detonation and reduced power and fuel economy, and in a performance engine, especially forced induction, this detonation is detrimental to power and the resulting knock retard is a negative tuners and owners should avoid, especially if the engine is run hard for extended periods such as road racing, drag racing, or aggressive driving period.




I also figured out how to install it by hitting up some forums and YouTube. There is a hose going from the passenger valve cover to the TB which actually connects to the CAI side of it, not the engine intake side like I thought. It’s just like connecting to the CAI tube like other instructions show. I just removed the hose from the valve cover, plugged the port on the valve cover with the supplied rubber cap, and connected the hose to the CSS. So instead of drawing air into the valve cover directly it goes through the CSS instead which traps any oil during vacuum and then releases it afterward into the oil fill hole. I didn’t have enough braided line included in the kit (wth) to use on this so I have some on order. I’ll replace the rubber hose when that comes in. The CSS installs in place of the oil filler cap by screwing its base on, then it just shoves down and has o-rings to seal it. It will make changing or adding oil a bit easier since you just pull up to remove it , no unscrewing. Oh and yes I will be painting my TB again, of finding a prettier one like a FAST billet one. ;)

View attachment 230640 View attachment 230641 View attachment 230642 View attachment 230643 View attachment 230644
Would it be possible to use a 1 way valve to use on that side? So during hard driving nothing could be sucked back into the clean side?
 
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Rocket Man

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Would it be possible to use a 1 way valve to use on that side? So during hard driving nothing could be sucked back into the clean side?


It doesn’t need one. There’s 2 of them on the catchcan outlets though. I’m sure if the CSS needed one, Elite or any of the others who make them would include them. More reading from Elite Engineering:

The Clean-side solution addresses that small amount of oil vapor that enters the intake air charge upstream of the throttle body during WOT operation when the intake manifold vacuum is not present.

The Clean-side solution allows 100% MAF metered air entry while trapping the oil during wide open throttle operation and allowing it to return back into the valve cover as soon as the throttle is lifted.
 

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After further research on the clean side separator I found this on Elite Engineering’s website:

Although app. 90-95% of the oil ingestion via the intake air charge enters via the "Dirty" or "foul" side of the PCV system, the other 5-10% enter via back flow through the factory "clean" or "fresh" side tube. This occurs mainly when accelerating or at wide open throttle when intake manifold vacuum drops to zero and crankcase pressure is allowed to build. This pressure will seek the path of least resistance, which is backwards flowing into the intake air bridge assembly bringing in oil mist and other contaminants into the intake air charge. While this will not cause severe issue with a port injection daily driven engine, it will cause detonation and reduced power and fuel economy, and in a performance engine, especially forced induction, this detonation is detrimental to power and the resulting knock retard is a negative tuners and owners should avoid, especially if the engine is run hard for extended periods such as road racing, drag racing, or aggressive driving period.




I also figured out how to install it by hitting up some forums and YouTube. There is a hose going from the passenger valve cover to the TB which actually connects to the CAI side of it, not the engine intake side like I thought. It’s just like connecting to the CAI tube like other instructions show. I just removed the hose from the valve cover, plugged the port on the valve cover with the supplied rubber cap, and connected the hose to the CSS. So instead of drawing air into the valve cover directly it goes through the CSS instead which traps any oil during vacuum and then releases it afterward into the oil fill hole. I didn’t have enough braided line included in the kit (wth) to use on this so I have some on order. I’ll replace the rubber hose when that comes in. The CSS installs in place of the oil filler cap by screwing its base on, then it just shoves down and has o-rings to seal it. It will make changing or adding oil a bit easier since you just pull up to remove it , no unscrewing. Oh and yes I will be painting my TB again, of finding a prettier one like a FAST billet one. ;)

View attachment 230640 View attachment 230641 View attachment 230642 View attachment 230643 View attachment 230644


So is this just for trucks with the hose that goes to the intake tube?
 
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Rocket Man

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So is this just for trucks with the hose that goes to the intake tube?
Every engine has this- it’s what’s called the “clean side” of the PCV system, where air is drawn in from between the MAF and the TB and enters through a hose on the passenger valve cover, then that air circulates through the crankcase and exits through the “dirty side” via the PCV valve at the driver side valve cover and then back into the intake manifold. The catch cans go on the dirty side and the CSS goes on the clean side. The CSS works at WOT only on a NA engine or under boost on a FI engine when manifold vacuum isn’t present and helps keep the TB clean of oil which a catch can doesn't.
 

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After further research on the clean side separator I found this on Elite Engineering’s website:

Although app. 90-95% of the oil ingestion via the intake air charge enters via the "Dirty" or "foul" side of the PCV system, the other 5-10% enter via back flow through the factory "clean" or "fresh" side tube. This occurs mainly when accelerating or at wide open throttle when intake manifold vacuum drops to zero and crankcase pressure is allowed to build. This pressure will seek the path of least resistance, which is backwards flowing into the intake air bridge assembly bringing in oil mist and other contaminants into the intake air charge. While this will not cause severe issue with a port injection daily driven engine, it will cause detonation and reduced power and fuel economy, and in a performance engine, especially forced induction, this detonation is detrimental to power and the resulting knock retard is a negative tuners and owners should avoid, especially if the engine is run hard for extended periods such as road racing, drag racing, or aggressive driving period.




I also figured out how to install it by hitting up some forums and YouTube. There is a hose going from the passenger valve cover to the TB which actually connects to the CAI side of it, not the engine intake side like I thought. It’s just like connecting to the CAI tube like other instructions show. I just removed the hose from the valve cover, plugged the port on the valve cover with the supplied rubber cap, and connected the hose to the CSS. So instead of drawing air into the valve cover directly it goes through the CSS instead which traps any oil during vacuum and then releases it afterward into the oil fill hole. I didn’t have enough braided line included in the kit (wth) to use on this so I have some on order. I’ll replace the rubber hose when that comes in. The CSS installs in place of the oil filler cap by screwing its base on, then it just shoves down and has o-rings to seal it. It will make changing or adding oil a bit easier since you just pull up to remove it , no unscrewing. Oh and yes I will be painting my TB again, of finding a prettier one like a FAST billet one. ;)

View attachment 230640 View attachment 230641 View attachment 230642 View attachment 230643 View attachment 230644
How about 1 of these!
20190915_190203.jpg
 
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Rocket Man

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Wtf is it? The CSS needs to hook to that hose that’s going from the valve cover to the TB. Route the hose from the TB to the CSS and plug the nipple on the valve cover. That’s where oily vapor enters the TB when there’s no vacuum at WOT which is where most of @Tonyrodz spends his time from what I hear lmao.
 

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Wtf is it? The CSS needs to hook to that hose that’s going from the valve cover to the TB. Route the hose from the TB to the CSS and plug the nipple on the valve cover. That’s where oily vapor enters the TB when there’s no vacuum at WOT which is where most of @Tonyrodz spends his time from what I hear lmao.
Damn skippy :D
That intake is on that supercharged(sold)S10. This is also part of that setup:
20190905_181935.jpg
20190905_223920.jpg
 
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do you remember the ticket I got up there? anyway I went to pay it online and it wouldn't come up in the system, so I called the courthouse up there to see if i could pay it over the phone, they couldn't find it either so they told me to send a copy of it to them, so I mailed a copy to them, they sent me a letter back all courthouse stamped up and everything and said the cop never turned it in or it was lost and that since 30 days or 60 days whatever the time limit was had passed that basically the officer would have to ticket me again in person and that I didn't have to pay it and it wouldn't be on my driving record. lol
I got a ticket passing through northern Cali from seattle to Vegas on my Suzuki katana. Huge $500 ticket for speeding. Anyway I couldn’t stick around for a court date as I was just passing through , so later I called to pay and it just rang and rang and rang and....we’ll you know. Court address wasn’t even a current address, and the court didn’t have a website. So I never paid. Never went on my credit or driving record either. So weird. I’ll never know.....why lol
 
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Rocket Man

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F91C191C-EF82-4434-8F10-147A3A93D768.jpeg
Today the -6 black braided stainless line came in so I replaced the rubber one on the CSS. Now I have some left over since I ordered 8 feet. Wonder which one I can replace next? I’d like to end up with all black braided lines but that might be impossible.
 

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View attachment 231067 Today the -6 black braided stainless line came in so I replaced the rubber one on the CSS. Now I have some left over since I ordered 8 feet. Wonder which one I can replace next? I’d like to end up with all black braided lines but that might be impossible.
I wish my engine bay looked half as good as yours.. [emoji41]
 
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Today I washed it and applied a brand new product from Chemical Guys called Hydroslick Ceramic Coating Hyperwax. It’s supposed to be a ceramic coating that is in gel form and just wipes on and then buffs off. It has no wax. It has no Carnuba. It’s supposed to be a whole new category. I can say one thing- it’s a PIA to apply since it’s pretty much invisible as it goes on. It leaves no haze so you can’t tell if you missed a spot when its time to buff it off. Supposedly it lasts 6 months to a year.
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43DC3AC1-0185-4CBC-AF7F-20DB4654E810.jpeg
 

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Today I washed it and applied a brand new product from Chemical Guys called Hydroslick Ceramic Coating Hyperwax. It’s supposed to be a ceramic coating that is in gel form and just wipes on and then buffs off. It has no wax. It has no Carnuba. It’s supposed to be a whole new category. I can say one thing- it’s a PIA to apply since it’s pretty much invisible as it goes on. It leaves no haze so you can’t tell if you missed a spot when its time to buff it off. Supposedly it lasts 6 months to a year. View attachment 231244View attachment 231245
Looks beautiful as always.

I mean, uh, damn, that non wax, non carnuba wax looks ****** ridiculous!!
 

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