My 13’ 120k mile Escalades throwing a service suspension code on the passenger side. The trucks been riding like a tank. I can hear a intermittent clunking noise coming from the right strut. Im assuming the shocks bent or something like that, needles to say I’m looking into replacing both front struts. Im leaning toward ordering the GM replacements without springs from rock auto but wondering if anyone’s had any good luck with the cheaper aftermarket replacements. I plan on keeping the truck for probably another 100k miles so my intuitions leading in the OEM direction any suggestions?
Replacing magnetic ride struts question
- Thread starter JPS0284
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tooleyondeck
Full Access Member
Since you intend on keeping it for the long haul I would recommend going with OEM or Bilstein. I would not recommend going cheap.
petethepug
Michael
I second your decision on OEM since Arnott went to a 2 year warranty from lifetime. GM recently went from 1 year to lifetime on Magneride. Be sure to get z95 filled with Mag fluid vs z55 filled with hydraulic fluid.
Look into replacing every bushing you can when the coils are pulled for strut disassembly / replacement. It’s time for a full refresh.
The truck will ride better than new when Poly bushings are replaced in the sway bars and OEM in the control arms. Before you start on it verify it’s not a motor mounts. Don’t go anywhere else but OEM. This will be the last time you pay for OEM mag ride struts.
Look into replacing every bushing you can when the coils are pulled for strut disassembly / replacement. It’s time for a full refresh.
The truck will ride better than new when Poly bushings are replaced in the sway bars and OEM in the control arms. Before you start on it verify it’s not a motor mounts. Don’t go anywhere else but OEM. This will be the last time you pay for OEM mag ride struts.
Thanks for the feedback, I’m not sure which fluid is in the struts I have. I cross referenced my RPO code to the GM strut listed on RA. Should I buy all new components for the new struts or swap the bump stop and cover over to the new struts? I plan on swapping to new maxtrac 1” drop springs as well.
I’ve done new sway bar bushings, end links, and lower ball joints last year with all oem parts. Are the lower control arm bushings easy to replace?
petethepug
Michael
09-14 Esky have active z95 / MagRide / mag fluid filled struts.
07/08 Esky and all others equipped with Autoride / z55 have active hydraulic filled struts. They’re interchangeable but not cross compatible. Both are different inside and the hardware that controls the two are different.
Nice work on replacing what’s been done. I don’t do my own suspension work anymore but the control arms, struts and spring pads are easy if you have the right equipment. A shop will make quick work of compressing the beefy springs to get the mag ride struts out. You’ll need an alignment when you’re all done.
The 1” drop spring is something I’ve not done on a Magneride truck. Someone will chime in on that and other factors that are coming into play for the geometry changes.
07/08 Esky and all others equipped with Autoride / z55 have active hydraulic filled struts. They’re interchangeable but not cross compatible. Both are different inside and the hardware that controls the two are different.
Nice work on replacing what’s been done. I don’t do my own suspension work anymore but the control arms, struts and spring pads are easy if you have the right equipment. A shop will make quick work of compressing the beefy springs to get the mag ride struts out. You’ll need an alignment when you’re all done.
The 1” drop spring is something I’ve not done on a Magneride truck. Someone will chime in on that and other factors that are coming into play for the geometry changes.
I have a local shop that does alignments that’s going to take care of swapping out the springs. There’s a thread on the camaro forums about guys doing it without any problems with minimal loss of ride quality. However I’m comparing a 2400# car to a full size suv but in theory the springs rates proportional to the vehicle weight so it should be fine. I appreciate the fluid info I’ll make sure when I make my RA order everything’s compatible.
Joseph Garcia
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You may need to make modifications to the ride level sensors to account for the 1" change in height for the front. Also, when finished, you should reset the automatic level control (ALC) benchmark.
Okay thanks! How do you reset it?
petethepug
Michael
Not sure where the drop knuckles come into play and whether it’s better to change the geometry with one or the other.
I do know from experience on Euro vehicles lowering springs half-life the struts lifespan by providing the much needed stance and better turn in control. This is where Mr. Goodwrench doesn’t need to know the vehicle has been lowered for lifetime warranty replacement purposes
I do know from experience on Euro vehicles lowering springs half-life the struts lifespan by providing the much needed stance and better turn in control. This is where Mr. Goodwrench doesn’t need to know the vehicle has been lowered for lifetime warranty replacement purposes
Circling back to the repair I did last year, while doing the lower ball joints the wheel bearings were also on their way out. So I figured if I’m ordering new ball joints and wheel bearings might as well put a drop kit on it and save myself the time beating the old hub off. So it already has a 2” drop knuckles in the front and 4” shock relocation brackets and springs in the back. The extra 1” would give the truck a litttle but more of a sportier stance, as it sits pretty level now.
