Rear wheel bearing, replace axle?

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Larryjb

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How many of you had to replace the axle with the wheel bearing?

I don't want the truck to be down for longer than necessary. However, if all I need to replace is the wheel bearing, the cost will be reasonably cheap. The most expensive part will the the diff fluid. But, if I get it apart and find galling on the race, I'll have to replace the axle anyway, which will more than double the cost of the repair.

Any thoughts?
 

nonickatall

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I think it probably depends on how many miles your truck has on it, the rear wheel bearings are actually from my view, no problem, what tends to fail are the front ones.

The differential isn't a problem as long as it's in oil. You should change the oil regularly anyway, because oil in automatic transmissions and differentials is exposed to strong mechanical stress and loses its lubricating ability at some point.

Otherwise I wouldn't worry about the rear axle of the truck - we're not talking about a BMW here... :cool:
 
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strutaeng

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Should be pretty painless to replace rear wheel bearing. I saw my mechanic replace one on my 99 Silverado.

I'm pretty sure you need a slide hammer, but it's relatively easy. Removing the differential cover and the c clip probably takes the longest.
 

89Suburban

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I hear war stories in here about pushing the axle far enough in to get the c-clip to release. And something else about the reluctor ring at the end of the axle for the speed sensor. Just a heads up if you want to do some searching on here before hand. @Rocket Man @swathdiver @randeez @iamdub
 
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Larryjb

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I'm pretty much okay with doing the rear wheel bearings. My question is more related to the chances the rear axle also needs replacing.

Last time I had the rear wheels off I could feel roughness in the rear right wheel as I rotated it, so I'm pretty sure I need to do that bearing. But, if I pull the axle to do the bearing and discover that the failed bearing wore into the axle, I have a problem.

@nonickatall, remember, we are talking about a truck that is 22 years old now.

However, if very few of you have had to actually replace an axle, it's probably worth me taking the chance on the bearing only.
 

RST Dana

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I'm pretty much okay with doing the rear wheel bearings. My question is more related to the chances the rear axle also needs replacing.

Last time I had the rear wheels off I could feel roughness in the rear right wheel as I rotated it, so I'm pretty sure I need to do that bearing. But, if I pull the axle to do the bearing and discover that the failed bearing wore into the axle, I have a problem.

@nonickatall, remember, we are talking about a truck that is 22 years old now.

However, if very few of you have had to actually replace an axle, it's probably worth me taking the chance on the bearing only.
Chance are your only issue is the bearing/races. I don’t the issue is bad enough to have begun to spin the inner race on the axle, or you would have had bigger issues by now.
 
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Larryjb

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Chance are your only issue is the bearing/races. I don’t the issue is bad enough to have begun to spin the inner race on the axle, or you would have had bigger issues by now.
As I understand it, there is not separate inner race on our Tahoes. (see article linked below) Note the damage in the first image of the linked article.


It is possible my diff fluid did go below a critical level when the rear cover was leaking. I don't know exactly how much I would have lost before I changed it, but I wasn't aware of any failed bearings before this.
 

RST Dana

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As I understand it, there is not separate inner race on our Tahoes. (see article linked below) Note the damage in the first image of the linked article.


It is possible my diff fluid did go below a critical level when the rear cover was leaking. I don't know exactly how much I would have lost before I changed it, but I wasn't aware of any failed bearings before this.
Ah. Then you might have an issue. I haven’t had the pleasure of this repair in several generations.
 

OR VietVet

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I'm pretty much okay with doing the rear wheel bearings. My question is more related to the chances the rear axle also needs replacing.

Last time I had the rear wheels off I could feel roughness in the rear right wheel as I rotated it, so I'm pretty sure I need to do that bearing. But, if I pull the axle to do the bearing and discover that the failed bearing wore into the axle, I have a problem.

@nonickatall, remember, we are talking about a truck that is 22 years old now.

However, if very few of you have had to actually replace an axle, it's probably worth me taking the chance on the bearing only.
When was the last time you had the wheels off? You said you felt roughness and then put the wheels on and drove it anyway. Likely just the bearing but you did not volunteer the mileage since then. Plus, just have an axle or two ready and take back if not needed. What would you consider being bad enough? Pits are not good. neither are gouges.
 
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Larryjb

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I had the wheels off a couple of months ago when dealing with a frozen parking brake cable. It has something like 350-400000 km which translates to about 250000 mi.

You say I put the wheels on and drove it anyway. That is my fact of life here, unfortunately. Living in Canada, I have to order parts and have them delivered to a parcel pickup in the US. Then I have to go and pick them up. Returning parts like that is a real pain, and often I just keep the parts, even core returns.

Obviously, pitting and gouging is not good and requires replacement. My question was really related to the chances it would be at this stage after these many years. I'm beginning to think it's time to replace the axles anyway.
 

OR VietVet

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@OR VietVet
I had the wheels off a couple of months ago when dealing with a frozen parking brake cable. It has something like 350-400000 km which translates to about 250000 mi.

You say I put the wheels on and drove it anyway. That is my fact of life here, unfortunately. Living in Canada, I have to order parts and have them delivered to a parcel pickup in the US. Then I have to go and pick them up. Returning parts like that is a real pain, and often I just keep the parts, even core returns.

Obviously, pitting and gouging is not good and requires replacement. My question was really related to the chances it would be at this stage after these many years. I'm beginning to think it's time to replace the axles anyway.
@Larryjb, your explanation of the logistics was not explained to begin with so my recommendations was based on the info you supplied. If you look at my build thread, you will see what I did to my 2005 Z71 as far as making the decision to keep my truck and I put money in to wear parts and parts/components/systems that I knew would eventually need to be addressed. I knew I was gonna retire soon and wanted to use my wages as a bank roll replace these already working parts. IMO, with your logistics concerns, while you have things apart, replace the axles with good quality parts, with knowing that you are keeping the vehicle. If you are on the fence about keeping, then do not replace axles, unless of course you have to. I do see that you are in Canada, in your signature, but I had no idea of the logistics problems.
 
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Larryjb

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@OR VietVet Actually, logistics are not bad for me considering I'm in Canada. At least I can have parts shipped to a parcel drop in Blaine which often saves me extra taxes and duty. If I have parts shipped directly to Canada from Rockauto, they charge me everything including duty.
 

swathdiver

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How many of you had to replace the axle with the wheel bearing?

I don't want the truck to be down for longer than necessary. However, if all I need to replace is the wheel bearing, the cost will be reasonably cheap. The most expensive part will the the diff fluid. But, if I get it apart and find galling on the race, I'll have to replace the axle anyway, which will more than double the cost of the repair.

Any thoughts?
Larry, GM makes a bearing that uses a different part of the axle shaft to ride on. As you can see it comes with an integrated seal.

RP513067 or 19340164:
1711090775472.png
1711090793032.png
 

OR VietVet

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Larry, GM makes a bearing that uses a different part of the axle shaft to ride on. As you can see it comes with an integrated seal.

RP513067 or 19340164:
View attachment 424337View attachment 424338
Yep, I have used these. When you get the old seals and bearings out, these are a breeze to install. Like @swathdiver said, it moves the bearing location to a different spot on the axle. It is a money saver and works well.
 
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Larryjb

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Larry, GM makes a bearing that uses a different part of the axle shaft to ride on. As you can see it comes with an integrated seal.

RP513067 or 19340164:
View attachment 424337View attachment 424338
I heard about those before, but didn't realize they were available for the Tahoe. I'll wait until summer when I have some time, then pull the axles and see what they look like.
 

Doubeleive

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I heard about those before, but didn't realize they were available for the Tahoe. I'll wait until summer when I have some time, then pull the axles and see what they look like.
at 250k your chances might be 50/50 that replacing just the bearing and seal alone will work. replacing the axle add's another $150 (each) parts cost "roughly" I guess that would depend on where you shop.
 

OR VietVet

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How would this requirement be any different from installing a regular bearing? I would think any bearing should be a smooth tight fit.
It is not different. Sometimes people remove old with wrong tools or wrong way and then booger up the axle tube or the tube itself is enlarged a little over time from a bad bearing. This part is not a fix all. It is to relocate a bearing surface, that is it.
 

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