Rear main Seal

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Rocket Man

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And once I get the oil pan and starter back on what all has to be connected for me to crank the engine to check for leaks...

I was going to try to leave the transmission disconnected so I can see if it still leaks
I’m not sure about that. Hopefully someone else will chime in. I know you’re going to throw a bunch of codes which can be cleared once the transmission is reconnected but I have no experience with the 4l80. It will not start without the neutral safety switch telling the ECM it’s in neutral or park, I know that much. Not sure what other things it’s looking for before it gets the ok to start the engine.
 
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lspann3525

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Last night got the rear cover and gasket on. I tried my best to make sure the cover is flush with the block. One thing I did notice was the bottom edge of the gasket was protuding a little too much so I loosened the bolts and gently moved it up a little.

Another thing that had me curious was the instructions that came with my rear seal instructed me to tighten the rear cover bolts to 22 ft lb. I researched off google and alldatadiy it was suppose to be 18ft lb. I contacted tech support and they told me that the engineers said it was tested and best to be torqued to 22ft lb.

dormancover.jpg

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The Oil Pan gasket and O-ring for the pickup tube should be here tomorrow. Hopefully I can replace it without any issues. Then next up will be the transmission seals. This little trans jack I bought 20 years ago from harbor freight came in handy. Used it a few times to change a transmissions on my older fords and chevys.

transjack.jpg
 

Rocket Man

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I would use a metal straight edge to line that up, like the metal ruler on a t-square, to simulate the trans being there. Maybe just check, I think it looks fine but it’s hard to tell. And those gaps right where the cover meets the block- that’s where the RTV goes when you install the pan. You’re just filling that gap because the gasket can’t seal a gap.
 
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lspann3525

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what are yall guys using to get the old transfer case gasket off the case well around the bolt holes. the gasket almost feels as hard as concrete..im trying to scrap them but I will be forever
 

89Suburban

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what are yall guys using to get the old transfer case gasket off the case well around the bolt holes. the gasket almost feels as hard as concrete..im trying to scrap them but I will be forever
I remember they made a spray can gasket dissolver years ago. Been a while since I used it.
 

Rocket Man

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what are yall guys using to get the old transfer case gasket off the case well around the bolt holes. the gasket almost feels as hard as concrete..im trying to scrap them but I will be forever
I generally use a gasket scraper. A straight edge razor blade will work too. Combine those with a solvent like lacquer thinner.
 

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lspann3525

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transfercase.jpg

Im wondering if brake cleaner will loosen up the old gasket. I got tired and called it a day. Hopefully someone has ran into this issue.


Also does it look like my transfer case adapter is cracked or is that just the way its designed

IMG-20230416-184310.jpg
 

Rocket Man

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View attachment 397132

Im wondering if brake cleaner will loosen up the old gasket. I got tired and called it a day. Hopefully someone has ran into this issue.


Also does it look like my transfer case adapter is cracked or is that just the way its designed

View attachment 397133
The gasket scraper tool I referenced will work on that. Harbor Freight sells them under “scraper”. Anybody that’s worked on something with a gasket has run into this.
 

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