Rear Main Oil Seal

[JonnyTahoe]

Sounds like your going to attempt the Rear main.

 

[Larryjb]

If I were to do the Oil Pan Gasket again as much as I don't like removing Steering Parts, I would remove that Steering Link in a second. That Link made everything take so much longer. Working on your back upside down sucks. My Yukon I got last September is absolutely rust free from Richardson Texas. It's a RWD 4X2. Try finding one of those in the upper Midwest. I can't even wait to replace the Oil Pump Tube O-ring and the Pan gasket should almost be kinda fun no front Differential.

If you read one of my earlier posts, I mention that the machining of the oil pan gasket surface was not even. The back of the pan was a two slightly different heights. I used a bead of RTV just over that ridge. I am hoping that is not leaking again, but I do think it's the rear main. However, if I have to remove the oil pan again, all you need to do is separate the center link from the pitman arm. This way the center link will rotate forwards and give you room to drop the front differential. No alignment should be necessary because the center link goes into the exact same position.

 

[Larryjb]

Sounds like your going to attempt the Rear main. I was too until I watched a few video's.

There'a a guy who had to replace his flexplate which involves removing the transmission. He said the job went really well. A lot of the videos look scary, but those are often the ones where the guy doesn't have the right tools. It's just a lot of steps, that's all (see my proposed procedure earlier in this thread).

 

[JonnyTahoe]

If you read one of my earlier posts, I mention that the machining of the oil pan gasket surface was not even. The back of the pan was a two slightly different heights. I used a bead of RTV just over that ridge. I am hoping that is not leaking again, but I do think it's the rear main. However, if I have to remove the oil pan again, all you need to do is separate the center link from the pitman arm. This way the center link will rotate forwards and give you room to drop the front differential. No alignment should be necessary because the center link goes into the exact same position.

My arm was sore from rubbing on that steering link would of taken 2 min to move out of the way.

 

[Larryjb]

Sucks your Fluids are so expensive. Hey how about that ''Rickafix video''. Are you kidding me. I had a hard time just watching it. The truck was 2 inches from his face. Got to give the guy Credit for taking the time to make a video of that nightmare job and remember that was his Second time doing it because he Did a fast job the first time and cut a few corners because it sucks working under a five thousand pound truck and he also still had a leak and ended up doing it all over a second time.

Sometimes parts too:
https://www.amazon.ca/Locker-Corpor...------------&vehicleName=2002+Chevrolet+Tahoe

It makes me sick to see this. And this has been happening all along, it's not just a covid-19 thing.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

Sometimes parts too:
https://www.amazon.ca/Locker-Corpor...------------&vehicleName=2002+Chevrolet+Tahoe

It makes me sick to see this. And this has been happening all along, it's not just a covid-19 thing.

That would be so frustrating. most of us have no idea how much more you guys have to pay for parts.

 

[OR VietVet]

I think in Canada that gasket comes with 2 cases of Molson beer. Still kinda high though.

 

[Larryjb]

I think in Canada that gasket comes with 2 cases of Molson beer. Still kinda high though.

I wish. It better be a subscription.

 

[Rocket Man]

Sorry to hear the bad news Larry. Hoping it all goes smooth for you.

 

[Patrick0329]

Here is a pdf version of my procedure. I have removed the unnecessary steps.

Yes, Mark, I have included removing the axle-diff bolts, but I'm not completely removing the differential. This step takes less than 10 minutes and saves a lot of !@#$%-eh's. If anyone wants to know, I understand that removing the center link/pitman arm bolt allows the center link to rotate away from the differential so that it could be removed completely.

If you see any mistakes, let me know so I can correct them.

Updated to include list of tools needed. Get them ready, job goes faster, more time for beer after.

Thanks for the pdf! Great detail front to back. Looking at this weekend or next, pending some supplies coming in. I'll keep you posted on my experience.

 

[Larryjb]

I could beat ya to the start, but I do work slowly so you may finish before me!

 

[Crcz71]

Been trying to figure my leak out as well. About a year ago I did the oil pan gasket and oil cooler block off cause I had a substantial leak and it appeared to be the culprit. Now I have a leak that’s been on going and about every two to three weeks I’m adding a quart. Here’s a couple pic of anyone could possibly confirm it is the rear main. It’s much worse than in the pics I was changing my oil and sprayed everything down with brake cleaner. By the time I was done changing oil you can see what had started dripping again.

 

[Larryjb]

The problem with distinguishing between the rear main, oil pan seal, or other leaks from the back of the engine, is that the oil pan makes a lip that juts out pas the rear of the block. Anything leaking there, whether it be the rear main, rear cover, oil pressure sensor, camshaft sensor, or even the oil pan gasket itself, will hit the lip, run sideways and drip from the same place. At least, this is what I have concluded. I tried looking directly at the rear main and it's really tough to see. Perhaps if you use a dye you might be able to see it. In my case, I already replaced the oil pressure and camshaft sensor gaskets, and the oil pan gasket. That seems to leave just one seal for me.

But, I for one, would not be able to conclude anything for you from the pictures.

 

[Crcz71]

I appreciate it. I was careful when replacing the oil pan gasket doesn’t mean something wasn’t right. I did manage to check the cam sensor and oil pressure sensor everything up top looks good. I did check the bolts at the rear of the oil pan to make sure they were tight along with the block off plate.

 

[Larryjb]

I assume you used a torque wrench for the pan bolts.

 

[Crcz71]

No reason being last time I used one on aluminum parts they broke so I was skiddish

 

[Larryjb]

I stripped threads because I didn't use a torque wrench. If you broke something using a torque wrench, either it was faulty, you accidently set it to ft-lbs for a in-lb spec, or the part was faulty.

 

[Crcz71]

I agree I was helping a friend he set it and it was his so you’re probably right.

 

[Larryjb]

What's wrong with Canada?

https://www.amazon.ca/Merchant-Auto...ansfer+case+upgrade+kit&qid=1588297967&sr=8-1
(180 + 30 shipping = $210 Cdn)

In the USA https://www.merchant-automotive.com/Transfer-Case-Pump-Upgrade-Kit
(works out to $115 Cdn at the worst)

THIS is why I'm not doing the upgrade kit at the moment.

 

[Larryjb]

Garage cleared, Tahoe parked, getting ready for rear main.

I've got a checklist plan which I will update with bolt sizes, possibly tools. I do this so I don't forget something critical, but I'll post it in the end for the benefit of other newbie's. Sorry, no video, hooking up a video cam will take up too much time. Besides, I do find it easier to follow things on paper. Yes, I'm getting old enough to be called old fashioned. (I actually know how to handwrite, not just print.)