Rear Glass Defroster Cord

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2001 TX Tahoe

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2016 GMC Yukon XL SLT. There are two coiled cords / wires that connect to the rear glass defroster. One of them came off the glass. I can't tell if it was glued on or soldered on. Any idea? I don't want to just use regular super glue if it was soldered or requires a special adhesive that conducts the heat / electricity.
 

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CMoore711

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Solder it back on.

I’ve had to do both sides on the 2015 Yukon XL Denali and just found one to be detached on my wife’s 2019 Escalade ESV.
 

Fless

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Frost Fighter is one of the recommended adhesives.

 

strutaeng

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I used one of the special adhesive on my 06 and it didn't work. Tried several times and terminal kept following off with little resistance. I made sure I was following the instructions too.

I wound up just soldering back on. It's kinda hard because you are soldering overhead. I added some high temperature epoxy as extra measure and it's working good. I added epoxy to the other side as well.
 

houstontaylor

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I tried gluing mine back on with the electrically conductive glue but they kept coming off so I finally got new glass with the new electrical connector tabs. I noticed that the new tabs had been redesigned to resist side load from the coiled electrical cord. If you don't get new glass you could try stretching out the coiled electrical cord with a heat gun or torch but that's probably a one way permanent operation. I recommend the new improved glass with better electrical tabs.
 

BarryvG

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You're luck the tabs STAYED connected to the glass. The tab on my '13 got pulled off the glass & is just hanging. The skeezy Chevy dealership I bought it from in El Paso didn't disclose a few things like this.

My local Chevy dealership said there is a local place that will re-connect it for $80, but I have not had time to get back to the mainland from our island. I'm not as trusting of the conductive glue on the market, especially as it's colder now & it might not "set" properly. The way yours looks it DOES look like you could solder it back on & leave it a little thicker for holding power. Good luck...
 

TollKeeper

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I just used this on mine. A quick test this morning, with just a little frost on the window, seemed to be working. Didn't see much action coming off the side window though. :/

-bZj
I thought the side windows were a antenna, not a defroster?
 

Down8

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I thought the side windows were a antenna, not a defroster?
That so? Learn somethin' new every day.... :shrug: I was just wondering why my radio station got fuzzy when someone pulled up on that side of me earlier today.

I assumed defroster, b/c that's the only side a driver could see out of. It'd make sense to clear the frost off that one. And it'd make sense to put an antenna on the other window, since the driver wouldn't be using it (and like the XM antenna, it'd get better signal on that side of the vehicle when in a city-valley).

.... I added some high temperature epoxy as extra measure and it's working good. I added epoxy to the other side as well.
This seems like a good idea, to reinforce the weak solder joint. I'm going to look into this.

I put some weight on my dangling cord for a couple days before re-attaching it, to try and stretch it out. But doing more to prevent future breaks seems worthwhile.

-bZj
 

Rocket Man

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Frost Fighter or you’ll be fighting it. It’s the only electrically conductive epoxy made afaik and the stuff will repair even the most damaged solder pad area that no other method will. I tried the other methods and they all failed sooner or later. Frost Fighter has been working for years on mine.
 
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