Range of cost for rear main seal job at a shop?

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Just Fishing

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I have pulled my transmission and transfer case out using a set of harbor freight 12ton jackstands (Tall mofos), and a harbor freight motorcycle jack with a little wooden platform I made and bolted to it...

It wasn't terrible, but it's not something I want to do again.

Maybe i'm just feeling tired right now, but $800 to have someone else do it sounds great!

now if that goes over 1k, then fk that I'll do it. :ehcapt:
 

mountie

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I have pulled my transmission and transfer case out using a set of harbor freight 12ton jackstands (Tall mofos), and a harbor freight motorcycle jack with a little wooden platform I made and bolted to it...

It wasn't terrible, but it's not something I want to do again.

Maybe i'm just feeling tired right now, but $800 to have someone else do it sounds great!

now if that goes over 1k, then fk that I'll do it. :ehcapt:
My mechanic has his dad in the shop... His dad is a transmission surgeon, so the mechanic is very good about this sort of work..... ( I'm paying the 'cash' price of 8 yards )
( The last 2 days, I put a quart of oil in.... from 200 miles!!
 
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Charlie207

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FWIW, the shop that did my inspection said that the RMS looked dry. The oil filter gasket was leaking badly, and the engine oil cooler line gasket was seeping a tiny bit.
 

mountie

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FWIW, the shop that did my inspection said that the RMS looked dry. The oil filter gasket was leaking badly, and the engine oil cooler line gasket was seeping a tiny bit.
Many years ago..... I learned what happens, changing an oil filter and not noticing the old 'O' ring from the old filter was still against the rim...... Uh, yea.... it leaked !!!
 

89Suburban

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FWIW, the shop that did my inspection said that the RMS looked dry. The oil filter gasket was leaking badly, and the engine oil cooler line gasket was seeping a tiny bit.
This is what grinds my gears, when I look in the inspection hole in the bell housing the flywheel looks basically bone dry. The outside looks like a sewer.
 
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Charlie207

Charlie207

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This is what grinds my gears, when I look in the inspection hole in the bell housing the flywheel looks basically bone dry. The outside looks like a sewer.

Here the areas I've checked that were potentially causing seeping/leaking:

- VLOM (maybe? but all the bolts were snug)
- oil pressure sensor (was wet with oil)
- valve cover gaskets (possible, but couldn't verify due to oil pressure sensor seeping. replaced due to being old/hard)
- engine oil cooler line gasket (visibly wet/seeping)
- dipstick gasket/grommet (wet around the area, not dripping)
- oil filter (shop said the new filter gasket was bad, not doubled up with old gasket)
- rear main seal (shop said it was dry)

After pulling the EOL gasket, cleaning, reinstalling (Advanced Auto wouldn't anwer their phones to see if part was in stock) and idling on the lift for 5 minutes we didn't see the area under the EOLs getting darker or wet, so hopefully just pulling out the gasket and reinstalling it was some dark magic voodoo that sticks. I should go crawl under there with a light and check it out before I take my 15 minute break prior to my coffee break before clocking out of my basement deskjob for happy hour.
 

89Suburban

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These have been addressed / replaced:

- VLOM
- oil pressure sensor
- valve cover gaskets
- engine oil cooler line block off gasket
- dipstick gasket/grommet
- oil filter - no problem here

These have not:

- rear main seal
- oil pan gasket
- front timing cover/main seal
 

Larryjb

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This is what grinds my gears, when I look in the inspection hole in the bell housing the flywheel looks basically bone dry. The outside looks like a sewer.
In my case, and many others I presume, it is not the actual RMS that leaks. It is the rear cover. It can be nearly impossible to see an actual leak from this rear cover.
 

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