Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

[randeez]

I'm telling yall, I can drive this thing around for hours if I don't go over 5000rpm belt stays right where it should lol

I think longer belt, more throw on the tensioner is the fix. But I'd like to prevent it from being able to come off no matterwhat

 

[Tonyrodz]

I'm telling yall, I can drive this thing around for hours if I don't go over 5000rpm belt stays right where it should lol

I think longer belt, more throw on the tensioner is the fix. But I'd like to prevent it from being able to come off no matterwhat

Not that I'm in the same category, but I was having the same issue with mine. Driving easy and not going high in the revs, it was fine. As soon as I romped on it, it would throw the belt. It turned out the tensioner was worn. Replaced that solved my issue.

 

[iamdub]

I'm telling yall, I can drive this thing around for hours if I don't go over 5000rpm belt stays right where it should lol

I think longer belt, more throw on the tensioner is the fix. But I'd like to prevent it from being able to come off no matterwhat

Higher accessory load at higher RPM- makes the tensioner flex more. The tensioner could be bottoming out yet the belt is still being slung. The tensioner might also be twisting ever-so-slightly as it flexes. On my supercharged S10, I was able to make the back/smooth side of the belt ride perfectly on the unpainted part of a pulley by installing a new tensioners and by testing various thicknesses of washers behind the bracket.

 

[randeez]

Them edges got some meat on em...pulley is a little bit larger, may have to get longer belt but looks alot better.

 

[randeez]

sooo the tensioner itself doesnt work, its offset further than the truck one (i think thats what im using) and the body of it is larger.

i swapped the pulley but the belts i had were then too short again lol. the longest one i had i could have probably wrestled it on but it would have been max'd out already. ordered a few more longer belts i would like to run the larger pulley i will prob order a new tensioner and throw the steel pulley on it

tensioner came with bracket, so no idea what application its for to try and find an upgrade/or atleast quality replacement

 

[Dantheman1540]

I might be behind but have you used the HD tensioner that atomic sells or makes parts for. I think it's just a Gates HD tensioner IIRC. Helped me when I was maxing out the 6rib blower setup.

 

[Rocket Man]

Just keep it under 5000 rpm duh.

 

[randeez]

I might be behind but have you used the HD tensioner that atomic sells or makes parts for. I think it's just a Gates HD tensioner IIRC. Helped me when I was maxing out the 6rib blower setup.

nah the bracket for low alt only bolts to the front of the it, and it sits "through" the bracket in a halfmoon shape. the stock truck one doesnt even work with it - and the offset it wrong. turns out the tensioner is an ls1 fbody tensioner, i ordered a gates one? couldnt really find any upgraded hd ones that were still stock shaped
i think the steel pulley with the right belt should work good. not sure of the quality of the included tensioner either so swapping it to a name brand might help

maybe something like this...

https://www.shoplitens.com/ls-series-racing-tensioner.html

 

[Rocket Man]

nah the bracket for low alt only bolts to the front of the it, and it sits "through" the bracket in a halfmoon shape. the stock truck one doesnt even work with it - and the offset it wrong. turns out the tensioner is an ls1 fbody tensioner, i ordered a gates one? couldnt really find any upgraded hd ones that were still stock shaped
i think the steel pulley with the right belt should work good. not sure of the quality of the included tensioner either so swapping it to a name brand might help

maybe something like this...

https://www.shoplitens.com/ls-series-racing-tensioner.html

View attachment 347518

Well of course it’s an $850 belt tensioner. They’re real proud of that one aren’t they? Jezus

 

[Dantheman1540]

Well of course it’s an $850 belt tensioner. They’re real proud of that one aren’t they? Jezus

Its nice that its a billet arm and tensioner body, you know since he's been breaking the cast ones left and right.

 

[Rocket Man]

Its nice that its a billet arm and tensioner body, you know since he's been breaking the cast ones left and right.

Exactly. They must have known.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Exactly. They must have known.

being that hes the King dingaling of HPT I figured he'd just go in and tighten the belt on HPT.

 

[Rocket Man]

being that hes the King dingaling of HPT I figured he'd just go in and tighten the belt on HPT.

Why does everything you scribble look like a c o c k and balls?

 

[Dantheman1540]

Why does everything you scribble look like a c o c k and balls?

I totally don't see that at all......

 

[randeez]

being that hes the King dingaling of HPT I figured he'd just go in and tighten the belt on HPT.

no long available with gen4 ecm

 

[randeez]

Q

Why does everything you scribble look like a c o c k and balls?

 

[randeez]

couldnt wait, and figured amazon would dik me over by waiting untill 9pm to deliver belts tomorrow.

stopped by auto parts store and grabbed pretty much the same ones i ordered. a 514 and a 520, swapped the pulley back to the larger, higher sider, and steel pulley. the 514 i wrapped it around and it was still pretty short lists as 51-7/16 tensioner would have been pretty much max'd out - put me right back in the same spot but with pulley. the other belt i got ~520 lists as 52-3/4 so i gave it a shot, fit seems just a hair too big. its sits at like the first line on the body.
there is 1 belt in between these two, they didnt have it amazon shipping was next week so i wanted to try these two out first and no matter when i ordered it was going to come next week. i think one between the two of these will still keep it in the middle of the tensioner marks nicely so ill give it a try. first couple rips with the longer belt stayed on pretty good...is pretty easy to throw on also so i'll keep them as a spare

 

[randeez]

i have come to the conclusion that i have no clue how to make the ac work as i would like it too in this thing.
messed with it some more today, got it warmed up with a little drive, threw the gauges on it, check temp at vent and temp of coolant in the a2w tank, theres also a sight glass on the dryer for the chiller so i was checking it for bubbles. got temps both down dropped nice, seemed to take a hell of a lot of freon. but pressure off the compressor was still good, truck was maintaining ECT pretty good.
went for a short drive ECT stayed fine i could literally run the a2w pump on like 30% and maintain 70* intake temps (90*+ ambient outside) and had inside of truck blowing ice cold. thought i could finally put this to rest. went n got some food with kiddo (in other car) got back figured, i'd go fill truck up with e85. jump in...rode down the road a bit to left plenty of air flow threw the condenser pop on the ac and pressure shoots up 400+psi and shuts off repeatedly, tried cranking the chiller and ac to allow freon to evap across them. still way up. didnt even really use ac all the way to get gas and back got home, put the gauges on it to make sure switch wasnt messed up again, turned on compressor with hptuners and it was shooting freon out of somewhere - i imagine the pressure relieve valve on the compressor couldnt really tell it was dark at that point. so i uh "recovered" some of it out of there and tried again, came on and works like no big deal
mostly just wanted to make sure i didnt seize the compressor up, i think im going to charge it just based on how cold i can get the chiller water and not worry about the cabin and call it a day

 

[randeez]

another day of ac work....
i decided to just charge the system for the lowest possible chiller water temp. which i can get down to about 31*. hood open, extra fan in front (only reason im allowing that is I plan on putting a pusher fan in front, already ordered) hood closed the psi jumps up (300ish psi) and starts to raise the ECT.
so i relieved some of the charge with the hood closed down till the pressure was back down to about 250psi, chiller temp was still about 38-40* and temp would stabilized - parked, hood down, no fan.
drove it around for a while with just chiller, then i turned down that water pump and turned on the cabin ac....took a few mins and it cooled fine with chiller pump around 30%.
soon as i get the other fan on it i should be able to put a little more charge into it and keep the ECT from climbing.

belt.... the k060520 belt goes on, and is on the loosest notch of the tensioner. i did have one come off on decel meaning it probably slammed the tensioner back to the no slack side and came off and it was brand new still kinda stiff. i have the same belt on it and so long as i come off WOT without just foot completely off pedal its stayed on. i ordered the next size shorter, k060516 if it looks to work good ill order a spare of two of it

/\ the lost belt was also the raised edge pulley with the old tensioner, so that may have also been part of the prob. since new tensioner and pulley, havent lost the belt

 

[randeez]

Sorry for the boring ac updates....

There's this table in hptuners

With chiller was instructions to have fans on 100% pretty much when ac is on...but I guess the way gm does this crap is they allow the heat itself to help with building ac pressure. And then turns fans on when pressure is up. So in my case I'm going to turn the fans on shortly before 240psi~1600kpa. Cause when I'm driving around the compressor cycles and pressure only goes up to like 140psi or so cause fans are on full blast