pulling the motor

[yukonfever99]

Pulling the motor in my 99 yukon, lower end knocking, anything i should no that gets in the way or is just a pain in the ass
thanks andrew

 

[AtomicHoe094]

probably pretty self explanatory. label all the connections just to be safe, removing the hood helps a lot. fan shroud, idk have fun!

 

[07Burb]

X2 on the labeling!!! Also take your time and don't rush it. When you get in a hurry stuff breaks

 

[retorq]

Pfft no need to label, everything only goes on place in one direction. and the way the wiring harness is bundled only one thing really fits close ...

 

[AtomicHoe094]

it makes life easier lol. just goo along with it. haha

ps while the motors out, put a blower on it, some long tubes, wth put in a 502 as well. thanks in advance!

 

[SunlitComet]

here is a brief instruction set if you don't have one already

Disconnect the battery negative cable. Refer to Battery Cable in Powertrain Management.
Remove the hood. Refer to Hood Replacement.
Remove the air cleaner assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Powertrain Managements.
Drain the engine coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System.
Remove the following coolant hoses:

Remove the upper inlet radiator hose. Refer to Radiator Hose Replacement in Cooling System.
Remove the lower outlet radiator hose. Refer to Radiator Hose Replacement in Cooling System.
Remove both heater hoses. Refer to Heater Hoses Replacement (Inlet Hose) and Heater Hoses Replacement (Outlet Hose).

Remove the upper radiator shroud. Refer to Fan Shroud Replacement (Upper) and Fan Shroud Replacement (Lower) in Cooling System.
Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement. CAUTION: In order to avoid possible injury or vehicle damage, always replace the accelerator control cable with a NEW cable whenever you remove the engine from the vehicle. In order to avoid cruise control cable damage, position the cable out of the way while you remove or install the engine. Do not pry or lean against the cruise control cable and do not kink the cable. You must replace a damaged cable.
Disconnect the accelerator control cable and the cruise control cable, if equipped. Refer to Accelerator Controls Cable Replacement in Powertrain Managements.
Remove the engine cooling fan. Refer to Fan Clutch Replacement. IMPORTANT: It is not necessary to discharge the A/C refrigerant.
Remove the air conditioning compressor, if equipped, and set it aside. Refer to Compressor Replacement in Heating and Air Conditioning.
Remove AIR bypass hose assembly, if so equipped. Refer to Air Injection Check Valve/Pipe Replacement.
Remove the power steering pump pulley. Refer to Power Steering Pump Replacement.



Remove the power steering pump mounting bracket using the following procedure:

Disconnect the electrical connector from the power steering pump.
Remove the nuts holding the power steering pump to the engine.
Remove the power steering pump mounting bracket bolts and the nut.
Slide the power steering pump mounting bracket forward with the power steering pump still attached.
Remove the stud from the cylinder head.
Set the power steering pump and the mounting bracket aside.
Remove the starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement.
Remove the starter opening cover.
Disconnect the electrical connectors on the top of the engine.
Disconnect the positive battery cable at the generator.
Remove the torque converter to flywheel bolts. Refer to Transmission Replacement in Automatic Transmission, Transaxle.
Disconnect the transmission cooler pipe bracket from the right side of the oil pan. Refer to Oil Cooler Line Replacement in automatic transmission, transaxle.
Remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifolds. Refer to Exhaust Manifold Pipe Replacement (Diesel) in Exhaust System.
Support the transmission with a suitable strap.
Remove the engine oil cooler pipes, if equipped. Refer to Engine Oil Cooler Line Replacement



Remove both engine mount through-bolts.
Remove seven transmission to engine bolts including the brackets.
Lower the vehicle.
Disconnect the remaining electrical connectors.
Remove the distributor cap. Refer to Distributor Replacement.
Remove the engine harness support.
Disconnect the fuel pipes. Refer to Fuel Hose/Pipes Assembly Replacement (Fuel Pipes Side Tank) in Powertrain Managements.
Remove two transmission to engine bolts at the rear top of the engine.
Remove the EGR pipe. Refer to Secondary Air Injection Check Valve/Pipe Replacement in Powertrain Managements.



NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

Attach the J 41427 (An engine sling) to the left front and right rear intake manifold mounting bolts, using the following procedure:

Remove the right rear lower intake manifold bolts. Refer to Intake Manifold Replacement (Lower).
Install the J 41427 marked RIGHT REAR.
Install the retaining bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.) .
Remove the left front lower intake manifold bolts.
Install the J 41427 marked LEFT FRONT with the arrow pointing to the front of the engine.
Install the retaining bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.) .

Attach a suitable lifting device to the lift brackets.
Remove the engine.

 

[07Burb]

Sunlit may or may not have copy/pasted

I always use the label route cuz it makes life a lot easier when it comes time to hook everything back up even if the item is obvious!

 

[SunlitComet]

true on both statements. If anything try to label which conduit went through which clamp through path around the engine.

 

[sleepr]

You could also take a lot of pictures, that helps me when figuring where things came from!

Blair

 

[yukonfever99]

thanks everyone

 

[oldsalt]

Yes label and take pictures. I've done this job quite a few times and still always refer back to the photographs I took. Harnesses do pretty much fall in place but figuring out routing wires and vacuum lines can drive you nuts and waste time.

Get a piece of cardboard and put your upper manifold bolts in it in the same position that they came out. While they all will fit some are different lengths. I have seen a long one put in the spot under the fuel line and begin to wear a hole. Not good.

I pull the engine with the manifolds on. Some prefer to take them off in the car.

A/C compressor- Unless you are going to replace it I just unbolt it and pull it up and over and tiewire it to the passenger hood hinge.

Remove the hood.

 

[07Burb]

I believe oldsalt has this a time or two

 

[oldsalt]

Some other things I thought of--

You have to pull the dist. before taking out the engine.

Run a chain between the torsion bars under the transmission to hold it up.

Pay attention to how the upper passenger side engine bolt/stud is assembled. There is a bracket for the wire harness along with 2 ground wires that use the same stud.

Remove your shrouds, radiator, fan, etc so you can stand on the crossmember. Makes it easier to take things off on the back side of the motor.

Pull the knock sensor to drain the water in the bottom of the block. It won't spill all over when you lift the engine out.

It's worth bagging or taping the wire connectors, as well as any open lines,and pressure washing the engine compartment while the engine is out. It only takes about an hour but putting everything back together all cleaned up not only looks good but makes you feel better when things get tedious. If you don't have a pressure washer, some ZEP orange cleaner from home depot and a garden hose will do.

Put the exhaust manifolds on before you put the engine back in. It's just much easier to do on the stand and you may have to use a spreader to get the holes to line up.

Put the engine at TDC before you put it back in the truck. It makes life a lot easier when putting the distributor back in.

Don't forget to put on the reluctor ring before you put on the timing chain cover. Don't ask why I say this.

Even though they say not to, put a little silicone all the way around the pan gasket. Both sides.

Take photos and keep us updated.

 

[yukonfever99]

no problem oldsalt will take pics and keep posted on everything i get done, i am looking for a 2" crowl hood if anyones got one for sale and is close to wisconsin

 

[AtomicHoe094]

whats a crowl hood??? hahahah!

 

[yukonfever99]

got it out, spun a barring the jurnal for 7&8,#7 was shaved down a couple 1000s of a inch so a good cleaning new crank kit and oil pump and shes goin down the road

 

[retorq]

?You spun a main bearing and you are going to throw new parts in without a line bore??

 

[07Burb]

 

[oldsalt]

I think at this point it's time to either send this motor out for machining and rebuild or swap it out for a new or new rebuilt. You're already over halfway there. You can probably get one for around 1200.

 

[yukonfever99]

its fine i did the same in my old truck samething happened and it went for anothe 40,000 till the tranny took a shit.