Please don't laugh... Quick Fix for a Oil Pan / Timing Cover oil leak

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tomloans

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I do not recommend this repair to anyone as I am not a mechanic and this could cause engine issues that I have no idea about! If you do wish to proceed, please proceed at your own risk as I did at my own risk!

So as the title states, please don't laugh. I took the timing cover off and replaced it. The oil leak continued. A lot of work for nothing. The remaining leak was at the bottom passenger side corner of the oil pan and timing cover meeting area. I was to say the least annoyed. Mechanic said they would need to take off the oil pan and timing cover. About $1500.00 in work.

SIGH.....

So I had bought the following RTV for this job... https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/optimum-gasket-makers/permatex-optimum-red-gasket-maker/

Desperation leads to this... LOL...


I sprayed the bottom of the pan and timing cover super clean and took it for a drive. I did this to see if I can located roughly where the leak is coming from. Again it was the front corner of the pan where it meets the timing cover.

Let the car cool off.

When cold, I crawled underneath and sprayed brake cleaner over and over again in and around that area of the leak and wiped it as clean as I could get it. This is the important part. Clean it well. You can't spray it clean enough. Take your time!

When I was satisfied ( I sprayed and cleaned with a rag about 4 to 5 times roughly ), I pressed the Permatex noted above into the meeting spots between the oil pan and engine block, the oil pan and timing cover and the timing cover and engine block. Also around the bolts on the oil pan at and near the leak. Not knowing exactly where the leak was, I did this until I reached the dry areas of the oil pan and timing cover. I pressed hard into the gaps and repeatedly. Then waited 24 hours. Do not start the engine until then.

It is now 500 miles and holding strong. I think why it worked is because this area is not under a lot of oil pressure. Also the prep is so important and the RTV was super strong. Remember to press into the gaps a number of times with globs of permatex to be sure you got the permatex in the leak.

Here is a little video...
 

YukonGTmaster

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I was getting tired of the oil stains on my garage floor too. I have heard from guys on the forum that doing the oil pan gasket on the 4x4 is a real PITA! I decided to crawl under there with my rags and my torque wrench, and see what those oil pan bolts were doing. I found that many had backed off a bit. Torqued it all up, and a very noticeable difference on the garage floor now.
 
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tomloans

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Yep every time I drive it, I look under and think when will it spring a leak again.

But if it lasts 10k miles for instance, why not save the time and money. If I didn't have to take down the oil pan, I would give it another go but it is too much work.

Also I already snuggled the oil pan bolts to no avail.

We will see how long this lasts.
 
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tomloans

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About 1000 miles now and no leak.

THIS IS IMPORTANT THOUGH.

Prior to this fix and video above, I used a product called Bar's Leak out of desperation...


So Bar's leak was in the oil for about 150 miles prior to the fix above and Bar's Leak didnt work on it's own but may have helped after the reseal RTV I did above. If I were to do this over again, here is what I would do...

Drain the engine oil and let it drain all night so that is absolutely no oil pressure against the leak. I would then follow instructions in the above video and instructions. Again prep with brake cleaner spray and cleaning over and over again and then when absolutely dry and clean, press the RTV into the suspected nook and crannies of the area over and over again then waiting the 24 hours for the RTV to set. Dont add oil until you have waited the 24 hours.

THEN DON'T FORGET TO PUT FRESH OIL IN WITH ONE CAVEAT... replace half a quart with the Bar's Leak noted above. That may just solve your leak. I will let you all know if and when mine springs a leak again if ever.
 
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