P0796 and others, while 59 miles from home

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Foggy

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Motor mounts are seperate from trans install... You've got quite the list..
Prob just wait on those.
I highly doubt that they will honor any warranty with an aftermarket HP High Stall
Torque Converter.. 3200 stall (from what I read) is a really high stall for a 6k lb
truck. It will create way more heat than even a true cool can handle (unless you live
where it's always cold/cool)
Unless you are operating in the high rpm range all the time, you'll want something
around a 2000 stall... Factory is 1600 rpm... so use that as comparison.
The thing you want/need in a 6L80e TC is a "better" lockup clutch... That's what fails
 

petethepug

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Ha! I got front correct, but fortunately the Jet corrected me to show front diff bushings vs front xfer case.

When the trans is out, the exh mani & down pipe must come out so there’s this beautiful place to stand behind the motor, pull the pan, replace the oil pump O ring, slide the motor mounts in n out, diff bushings, rear main and perfectly align the pan gasket.

If there’s any slop in your shifter there’s inexpensive 1/2 shifter cable replacements to install too. I had em swap the fluid in the front diff & xfer case too. Buh by drive train slop.
 
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KidWgn

KidWgn

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Motor mounts are seperate from trans install... You've got quite the list..
Prob just wait on those.
I highly doubt that they will honor any warranty with an aftermarket HP High Stall
Torque Converter.. 3200 stall (from what I read) is a really high stall for a 6k lb
truck. It will create way more heat than even a true cool can handle (unless you live
where it's always cold/cool)
Unless you are operating in the high rpm range all the time, you'll want something
around a 2000 stall... Factory is 1600 rpm... so use that as comparison.
The thing you want/need in a 6L80e TC is a "better" lockup clutch... That's what fails
For a small truck cam, you'd probably be right.

I want to do a high lift cam, so a 3200 stall is the correct application here. (see attached)

I don't care if they cancel the entire warranty after all this is done.

1711397225451.png
 

Geotrash

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For a small truck cam, you'd probably be right.

I want to do a high lift cam, so a 3200 stall is the correct application here. (see attached)

I don't care if they cancel the entire warranty after all this is done.

View attachment 424604
Hmmm… that cam is suitable for a car, but unfortunately not a 6,000 lb truck. I think you’ll be unhappy with it unless track days will be your primary use.

Take a look at some of the high lift truck cams out there. You’ll make gains on both the low and high end.
 
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KidWgn

KidWgn

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Hmmm… that cam is suitable for a car, but unfortunately not a 6,000 lb truck. I think you’ll be unhappy with it unless track days will be your primary use.

Take a look at some of the high lift truck cams out there. You’ll make gains on both the low and high end.
The TSP stage 4 truck cam is nearly identical at 223/226 600/600 111
 

Geotrash

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The TSP stage 4 truck cam is nearly identical at 223/226 600/600 111
To each their own. I'm just sayin' that you'll have a big lope and your power band will be 4500 RPM and above, with losses down low. If that's your thing, then by all means, do it. I had a lopey cam for all of 2 months and I couldn't wait to get rid of it. The constant surging at traffic lights was annoying. A higher stall would've helped but then I would've had heat problems when towing. Everything is a tradeoff.

For a truck, I like the power band as low as I can get it and a smooth idle. So that's what I have. If you get that cam, I'll be excited to see how you like it. You may think it's the best thing you ever did so I don't mean to impose my preferences on you. Just want you to know what you're getting into, that's all.
 

petethepug

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Oh those motor builds. Intoxicating stuff. I never did one on a V8. They’re twice as expensive as the In-line 4 water cooled stuff I migrated from after the Flat 6 air cooled days. That other bank and it’s extra 4 pistons adds up fast.

If I were going to cam my Esky, I’d rebuild the trans to accommodate it 1st. Too late for that though. I’d find a documented LS build on an identical motor that had a dyno sheet to substantiate the results and copy that build. It’d be a sure fire for reliability and a realistic hp/tq match.

There’s too much hp left on the table with these motors unless you add aftermarket heads & exhaust mani to a cam. It let’s them breath and reduces the heat load. That’s also key to longevity and reliability. $peed costs.
 

swathdiver

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Losing 60+ foot pounds of torque down low and having to use a high stall converter to make up for it wears out real quick when daily driving it.

210 degrees is the limit to preserve low end grunt, the Truck Norris cam gets around this rule with a tight LSA.

I'm surprised that the dealership and warranty company are installing ANY aftermarket torque converter.
 
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KidWgn

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To each their own. I'm just sayin' that you'll have a big lope and your power band will be 4500 RPM and above, with losses down low. If that's your thing, then by all means, do it. I had a lopey cam for all of 2 months and I couldn't wait to get rid of it. The constant surging at traffic lights was annoying. A higher stall would've helped but then I would've had heat problems when towing. Everything is a tradeoff.

For a truck, I like the power band as low as I can get it and a smooth idle. So that's what I have. If you get that cam, I'll be excited to see how you like it. You may think it's the best thing you ever did so I don't mean to impose my preferences on you. Just want you to know what you're getting into, that's all.
Sorry if I came off rude in my replies. I've built more than a few engines in the past (albeit not a truck LS) and everyone always wants to push their opinion without any factual basis or real world experience. I should've looked at who I was responding to and known better. I DO appreciate your input. I am indeed after a lopey idle. After listening to the TSP S4 truck cam, it may satisfy my desire for playing "hot for teacher" at stoplights.

I don't tow at all, so I'm not concerned about that aspect. As far as having power down low, I don't have any as it is :rotflmao: These 3.08's gotta GO. I'll be swapping those this summer, before I put a cam in it. This thing is an absolute doggggg down low. Hoping to find some 3.72, as I think going 4.11 is just going to be way too much time in high RPM.
Oh those motor builds. Intoxicating stuff. I never did one on a V8. They’re twice as expensive as the In-line 4 water cooled stuff I migrated from after the Flat 6 air cooled days. That other bank and it’s extra 4 pistons adds up fast.

If I were going to cam my Esky, I’d rebuild the trans to accommodate it 1st. Too late for that though. I’d find a documented LS build on an identical motor that had a dyno sheet to substantiate the results and copy that build. It’d be a sure fire for reliability and a realistic hp/tq match.

There’s too much hp left on the table with these motors unless you add aftermarket heads & exhaust mani to a cam. It let’s them breath and reduces the heat load. That’s also key to longevity and reliability. $peed costs.
Funny enough, I'm finding V8 stuff to be a lot cheaper than my last H4 build. One cam instead of 4!

It'll be getting long tubes before the cam. I have a Corsa exhaust sitting on my shelf waiting for me.

Cheap, fast, reliable. Pick any 2.
Losing 60+ foot pounds of torque down low and having to use a high stall converter to make up for it wears out real quick when daily driving it.

210 degrees is the limit to preserve low end grunt, the Truck Norris cam gets around this rule with a tight LSA.

I'm surprised that the dealership and warranty company are installing ANY aftermarket torque converter.
The high stall converter is to prevent surging at idle more so than making up low end.

Dealership doesn't give a ****. They aren't the ones paying for the warranty. The warranty company doesn't know it's going in there. lol Now, in the future if it needs warranty work, that'll be a different story. I'm okay with that though, as the warranty has already paid for itself with the transmission replacement.
 

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