KidWgn
Certified Kid Hauler
I now have 7 neutrals. RIP.
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P0796 and others, while 59 miles from home
- Thread starter KidWgn
- Start date
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Yup, it's time. How many miles on this transmission?
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KidWgn
Certified Kid Hauler
a whopping 117k
When you have the work done, watch out. Some transmission shops will bypass the factory coolers (typically there is one in the radiator end tank and one aux cooler in front of the radiator, plumbed in series) and install a single new aux cooler. The problem with that approach is that it'll result in higher transmission temps because proper fluid cooling on these depends on the first cut of heat to be taken out by the oil-to-water cooler in the radiator end tank. It also serves to warm the fluid in extremely cold weather. If this transmission failed the way many of them do, it started with the lockup clutch in the converter spreading debris through the rest of the system. So, because it's pretty near impossible to get all of the abrasive debris out of the coolers and lines, shops just bypass the factory coolers with a new aux cooler. If there's debris in the system, the proper way is to install a new Denso (OEM mfr) radiator, along with a new aux cooler and new lines throughout.
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KidWgn
Certified Kid Hauler
It's going back to the dealership to be done. For the first time in the history of ever, an extended warranty is paying off.
HOPEFULLY, they'll do it the way you said. I'm going to bring them a Circle D 3200 to put in it. I'll be installing a TruCool afterwards, also.
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KidWgn
Certified Kid Hauler
Just ordered my Circle D from Michigan Motorsports. Also ordered a bunch of stuff from Amsoil. May as well put good fluid in the trans, t-case, and diffs while I'm at it.
petethepug
Michael
Dealership + Extended Warranty / Service Contract means also bring brown paper bag w/ 12pk beer or 4-5 best hamburgers in town for the tech & service writer. Huge job for a dealer tech.
You’ll want him doing grilled onion burps while he’s messing with the broken exh mani bolts to remind him it’s worth it. Good time to bring in those ARP exh mani bolts, motor mounts & xfer case dog bones w/ new bushings too.
Yea, dealer techs hate working on our old trucks, especially if it’s a 2-3 day job. LOL
DLR will not warranty trans w/ anything other than factory spec. Fluids. They want to but can’t claim their own warranty if invoices state otherwise.
You’ll want him doing grilled onion burps while he’s messing with the broken exh mani bolts to remind him it’s worth it. Good time to bring in those ARP exh mani bolts, motor mounts & xfer case dog bones w/ new bushings too.
Yea, dealer techs hate working on our old trucks, especially if it’s a 2-3 day job. LOL
DLR will not warranty trans w/ anything other than factory spec. Fluids. They want to but can’t claim their own warranty if invoices state otherwise.
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KidWgn
Certified Kid Hauler
I just planned on figuring out who the tech is and leaving him $100 in an envelope. lol
Do the motor mounts have to come out to get the trans out? If so, I have some AFP mounts I've been putting off installing.
Good point on the ARP exhaust manifold studs. I'll get those ordered.
I'm not familiar with the t-case dog bone. Got a link?
donjetman
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front differential mounts w/bushings,
GM# 23104735 & 23104736 is what I installed in my 2007 AWD Denali
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/shaking-above-65.136496/#post-1709967
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KidWgn
Certified Kid Hauler
Front diff mounts makes more sense than t-case. lol. ORDERED!
Thank you!
Edit: Also ordered a new OEM trans mount.
Motor mounts are seperate from trans install... You've got quite the list..
Prob just wait on those.
I highly doubt that they will honor any warranty with an aftermarket HP High Stall
Torque Converter.. 3200 stall (from what I read) is a really high stall for a 6k lb
truck. It will create way more heat than even a true cool can handle (unless you live
where it's always cold/cool)
Unless you are operating in the high rpm range all the time, you'll want something
around a 2000 stall... Factory is 1600 rpm... so use that as comparison.
The thing you want/need in a 6L80e TC is a "better" lockup clutch... That's what fails
Prob just wait on those.
I highly doubt that they will honor any warranty with an aftermarket HP High Stall
Torque Converter.. 3200 stall (from what I read) is a really high stall for a 6k lb
truck. It will create way more heat than even a true cool can handle (unless you live
where it's always cold/cool)
Unless you are operating in the high rpm range all the time, you'll want something
around a 2000 stall... Factory is 1600 rpm... so use that as comparison.
The thing you want/need in a 6L80e TC is a "better" lockup clutch... That's what fails
petethepug
Michael
Ha! I got front correct, but fortunately the Jet corrected me to show front diff bushings vs front xfer case.
When the trans is out, the exh mani & down pipe must come out so there’s this beautiful place to stand behind the motor, pull the pan, replace the oil pump O ring, slide the motor mounts in n out, diff bushings, rear main and perfectly align the pan gasket.
If there’s any slop in your shifter there’s inexpensive 1/2 shifter cable replacements to install too. I had em swap the fluid in the front diff & xfer case too. Buh by drive train slop.
When the trans is out, the exh mani & down pipe must come out so there’s this beautiful place to stand behind the motor, pull the pan, replace the oil pump O ring, slide the motor mounts in n out, diff bushings, rear main and perfectly align the pan gasket.
If there’s any slop in your shifter there’s inexpensive 1/2 shifter cable replacements to install too. I had em swap the fluid in the front diff & xfer case too. Buh by drive train slop.
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KidWgn
Certified Kid Hauler
For a small truck cam, you'd probably be right.
I want to do a high lift cam, so a 3200 stall is the correct application here. (see attached)
I don't care if they cancel the entire warranty after all this is done.
Hmmm… that cam is suitable for a car, but unfortunately not a 6,000 lb truck. I think you’ll be unhappy with it unless track days will be your primary use.
Take a look at some of the high lift truck cams out there. You’ll make gains on both the low and high end.
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KidWgn
Certified Kid Hauler
The TSP stage 4 truck cam is nearly identical at 223/226 600/600 111
To each their own. I'm just sayin' that you'll have a big lope and your power band will be 4500 RPM and above, with losses down low. If that's your thing, then by all means, do it. I had a lopey cam for all of 2 months and I couldn't wait to get rid of it. The constant surging at traffic lights was annoying. A higher stall would've helped but then I would've had heat problems when towing. Everything is a tradeoff.
For a truck, I like the power band as low as I can get it and a smooth idle. So that's what I have. If you get that cam, I'll be excited to see how you like it. You may think it's the best thing you ever did so I don't mean to impose my preferences on you. Just want you to know what you're getting into, that's all.
petethepug
Michael
Oh those motor builds. Intoxicating stuff. I never did one on a V8. They’re twice as expensive as the In-line 4 water cooled stuff I migrated from after the Flat 6 air cooled days. That other bank and it’s extra 4 pistons adds up fast.
If I were going to cam my Esky, I’d rebuild the trans to accommodate it 1st. Too late for that though. I’d find a documented LS build on an identical motor that had a dyno sheet to substantiate the results and copy that build. It’d be a sure fire for reliability and a realistic hp/tq match.
There’s too much hp left on the table with these motors unless you add aftermarket heads & exhaust mani to a cam. It let’s them breath and reduces the heat load. That’s also key to longevity and reliability. $peed costs.
If I were going to cam my Esky, I’d rebuild the trans to accommodate it 1st. Too late for that though. I’d find a documented LS build on an identical motor that had a dyno sheet to substantiate the results and copy that build. It’d be a sure fire for reliability and a realistic hp/tq match.
There’s too much hp left on the table with these motors unless you add aftermarket heads & exhaust mani to a cam. It let’s them breath and reduces the heat load. That’s also key to longevity and reliability. $peed costs.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Losing 60+ foot pounds of torque down low and having to use a high stall converter to make up for it wears out real quick when daily driving it.
210 degrees is the limit to preserve low end grunt, the Truck Norris cam gets around this rule with a tight LSA.
I'm surprised that the dealership and warranty company are installing ANY aftermarket torque converter.
210 degrees is the limit to preserve low end grunt, the Truck Norris cam gets around this rule with a tight LSA.
I'm surprised that the dealership and warranty company are installing ANY aftermarket torque converter.
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KidWgn
Certified Kid Hauler
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KidWgn
Certified Kid Hauler
Sorry if I came off rude in my replies. I've built more than a few engines in the past (albeit not a truck LS) and everyone always wants to push their opinion without any factual basis or real world experience. I should've looked at who I was responding to and known better. I DO appreciate your input. I am indeed after a lopey idle. After listening to the TSP S4 truck cam, it may satisfy my desire for playing "hot for teacher" at stoplights.
I don't tow at all, so I'm not concerned about that aspect. As far as having power down low, I don't have any as it is
These 3.08's gotta GO. I'll be swapping those this summer, before I put a cam in it. This thing is an absolute doggggg down low. Hoping to find some 3.72, as I think going 4.11 is just going to be way too much time in high RPM.Funny enough, I'm finding V8 stuff to be a lot cheaper than my last H4 build. One cam instead of 4!
It'll be getting long tubes before the cam. I have a Corsa exhaust sitting on my shelf waiting for me.
Cheap, fast, reliable. Pick any 2.
The high stall converter is to prevent surging at idle more so than making up low end.
Dealership doesn't give a ****. They aren't the ones paying for the warranty. The warranty company doesn't know it's going in there. lol Now, in the future if it needs warranty work, that'll be a different story. I'm okay with that though, as the warranty has already paid for itself with the transmission replacement.
