Noise when wheel is turned?

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shahking1120

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Hey Guys,

I have a 2011 Tahoe LT 2wd.

In the past couple of weeks there is a noise and I only hear it when im in my parking garage, going up or down (while turning), or in traffic if I'm going on an overpass (wheels are turned a bit, not straight and going slow enough to hear it.)

It sounds like metal rubbing on metal, kind of like when your break pads are worn and the indicator clip is rubbing the rotor...But why only when the wheel is turned?

If it matters, I replaced all sway bar end links and bushings about a month ago.
I changed the front pads and rotors last january, and rear pads and rotors in september of last year, I mean unless I blew through them...?

Please help!
 

Doubeleive

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could be a wheel hub, try jacking up the front so the wheels are off the ground, then grab each wheel at 12 & 6 and see it has any play up and down (there should be none), left and right (9&3) will have a small amount of play which is normal, you could also spin the wheel and see if you hear any noise.

I personally blow thru front stock pads in about 6 months, but normally that shouldn't be the case.
 

Scottydoggs

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might be the back brakes metal on metal, they wear out as fast if not faster then fronts.
 
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shahking1120

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could be a wheel hub, try jacking up the front so the wheels are off the ground, then grab each wheel at 12 & 6 and see it has any play up and down (there should be none), left and right (9&3) will have a small amount of play which is normal, you could also spin the wheel and see if you hear any noise.

I personally blow thru front stock pads in about 6 months, but normally that shouldn't be the case.


I'll give that a try in the coming days, I live in an apartment now so I have to make a stop at a friends house lol.

Hmm...I drive like a dumbass, maybe they are gone! I would think we would get more life out of them!
 

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I'll give that a try in the coming days, I live in an apartment now so I have to make a stop at a friends house lol.

Hmm...I drive like a dumbass, maybe they are gone! I would think we would get more life out of them!
you can certainly get better pads, I like the autozone brand because they give a lifetime warranty, so when they wear out you just go swap them for a new set at no cost.
 

CobraKing

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Guys sorry to derail this thread, but when you guys first steer from a parked position and the steering wheel returns to its default (straight) position. Do you ever feel a clunk/thump from the floor board? It only happens just that once and never again during operation, until the vehicle is parked and then started again.
 

CobraKing

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only when turning, all turning, just slightly to switch lanes, or even when im making a turn to go up a floor in the parking garage.

Check your brake pads and rotors. You can get all types of weird noises as they wear out. Wife's '11 Malibu had some weird and annoying clicking at highway speeds (100+ km/h) with the steering wheel slightly turned. Replaced the pads and rotors and it's quiet as a mouse. Now I probably have to replace the intermediate steering shaft as that's rattling over bumps. :rolleyes:
 
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shahking1120

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Check your brake pads and rotors. You can get all types of weird noises as they wear out. Wife's '11 Malibu had some weird and annoying clicking at highway speeds (100+ km/h) with the steering wheel slightly turned. Replaced the pads and rotors and it's quiet as a mouse. Now I probably have to replace the intermediate steering shaft as that's rattling over bumps. :rolleyes:


Yeah but I feel like im changing them all the time!!

I will probably do them tomorrow and just buy the better autozone pads so I can swap them out for free..
 

Scottydoggs

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Yeah but I feel like im changing them all the time!!

I will probably do them tomorrow and just buy the better autozone pads so I can swap them out for free..

those pads blow. i buy them only if im in a bind. and you will be changing them all the time too. they wont last 12,000 miles.
 
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shahking1120

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those pads blow. i buy them only if im in a bind. and you will be changing them all the time too. they wont last 12,000 miles.

Oh... well it seems like my acdelco pads only lasted 10k on the rears!

But then again, I haven't actually checked them! going to do that in a few minutes! figured id just get the pads before, if they are worn.

Looking at these, https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/202598/01487/2011/CHEVROLET/TAHOE/0/V8-325%20%205.3L

for the front and the same model for the rear.. on any vehicle I've never used anything but OE. Not sure where to start!
 

Scottydoggs

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id just hit the r1 ebay store and order up a set. take about a week to ship to me in NJ, they ship out of CA.

and likely cheaper then the best what ever brand is sold at the local parts stores. ive been through every pad you can think of from the local stores. hands down r1 is the best brakes ive ever owned.

also make sure your sliders are lubed up good as well as the pad ends where they mount in the bracket. if they dont move some what freely when you install them, grind the tab on the pad some so they fit better, they can bind up and not back off like they should. i've been grinding on pads for years now, your taking like a 1/8 inch off. dont hurt, only helps.

im yet to have to dr up a r1 pad tho. all them parts store pads ive had to grind em down pretty often.
 

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those pads blow. i buy them only if im in a bind. and you will be changing them all the time too. they wont last 12,000 miles.
you must be buying the cheap ones, the c-max duralast (extreme duty) last me 20k plus on the front and im pretty ******* brakes, I even bought the GT's this last time to check them out fantastic stopping power but the carbon fiber makes a lot of dust
 

Scottydoggs

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ive had em all on my last two pick ups and the regal. cheap to top of the line parts store junk. i was not easy on them trucks, used em for work, snow plowed, towed the boat, treated them like red headed step kids really, but only when i drove em, they got regular maint. i was doing 3000 miles a month. so up keep was demanding for sure. brakes were changed way to often, rears always wore out before the fronts. and still do. they've learned to add more rear brakes to all cars and trucks. even my regal, the pads wear at the same pace somewhat, rears still go first tho.

oh the r1's dont dust up much if at all really.
 

05alive

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only when turning, all turning, just slightly to switch lanes, or even when im making a turn to go up a floor in the parking garage.
Have you checked your PS reservoir? Mine was leaking last winter and at low speeds it would make a metallic almost grinding sound while turning. I kept topping it off to limp it by until I could fix it.
 

Doubeleive

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ive had em all on my last two pick ups and the regal. cheap to top of the line parts store junk. i was not easy on them trucks, used em for work, snow plowed, towed the boat, treated them like red headed step kids really, but only when i drove em, they got regular maint. i was doing 3000 miles a month. so up keep was demanding for sure. brakes were changed way to often, rears always wore out before the fronts. and still do. they've learned to add more rear brakes to all cars and trucks. even my regal, the pads wear at the same pace somewhat, rears still go first tho.

oh the r1's dont dust up much if at all really.
that's weird that your rear brakes are wearing out faster than the front, on all my vehicles I have had in the last 14 years the fronts wear almost 2-to-1 against the rears, drive in reverse a lot? lol
 
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shahking1120

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Figured it out guys!

The little clips that holds in the pad was bent out of shape and rubbing on metal, pads are fine, just had to bend everything back in place!

Thanks for all of the help and suggestions!


One more question...how do you guys bleed brakes? Fluids looking nasty and I wont have anyones help tomorrow.
 

HiHoeSilver

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A few options, here. The best would be with a tech 2 to actuate the ABS module. I know @Rocket Man loves his motive bleeder. @iamdub has a method of turning the key on and off to cycle it. Some guys take it to a field and slam on the brakes. If none of the above is available, u should good old fashioned gravity bleed it (RR, LR, RF, LF) first and see where you're at I would say.
 

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