Greetings All, My name is Sam I own a 1999 Tahoe LS 4x4 with the 5.7L. My goal is to restore my truck to a super nice condition, and I feel I have a long way to go. My current situation with it i'm having a real pain in the ass ignition problem!!!! I have searched and search the net but found nothing on any forum that fits my problem so here goes..... When I turn the key to the first position I have all my Transmission gear indicator lights on and can move the shifter through each one.....Once I turn the key the next click to start the gear indicator lights go out and I get no crank. I have replaced the following...Neutral safety switch, Ignition Cylinder and housing with new keys, Ignition wiring harness (in the collum) And of course I checked all the fuses and relays. I'm sure I'm going to hear something about the passlock security, my security light is not on, it comes one with all the other lights when I turn the key but goes out as it should. It did this last year but after it sat for a week, the gear indicator came on and it started. I drove it for a while until it did it again, now its stuck like this.....PLEASE HELP!!!!!
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- Thread starter Samstigg
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swathdiver
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Tech-2 time Sam.
???? Please explain?
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You need to read the trouble codes. The Tech 2 is/was the factory code reader. There are also after market clones available.
joe
Welcome to the forum from Oregon.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
The Tech-2 was the dealer level scan tool your vehicle was designed to be worked on with. That and a copy of the shop manual's trouble shooting guide and you can get after this quickly and accurately without throwing parts at it and wasting precious time.
Welcome to the forum from Colorado!
I moved this thread here for the engine issue. We have some very knowledgeable people here that can help with some questions and suggestions.
I moved this thread here for the engine issue. We have some very knowledgeable people here that can help with some questions and suggestions.
Welcome to the forum from Iowa
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Welcome to the Forum from NH.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
Pics of the truck, please.
The folks above are talking about acquiring or borrowing a quality bi-directional scanner. They recommend that you get yourself a quality bi-directional scanner to add to your tool box. Then, you will be able to read ALL trouble codes, along with a brief explanation/pointer to the source of your issue. You will also be able to reset/delete trouble codes, after taking corrective action. You will literally save thousands of dollars in diagnostic and repair costs over the life of your truck, and you will most likely recoup the cost of the scanner within 1 year.
It sounds to me like you will need help from a quality bi-directional scanner to get you over the hump in your troubleshooting. The cost will be ~$350 - $500, depending on which scanner you get.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
Pics of the truck, please.
The folks above are talking about acquiring or borrowing a quality bi-directional scanner. They recommend that you get yourself a quality bi-directional scanner to add to your tool box. Then, you will be able to read ALL trouble codes, along with a brief explanation/pointer to the source of your issue. You will also be able to reset/delete trouble codes, after taking corrective action. You will literally save thousands of dollars in diagnostic and repair costs over the life of your truck, and you will most likely recoup the cost of the scanner within 1 year.
It sounds to me like you will need help from a quality bi-directional scanner to get you over the hump in your troubleshooting. The cost will be ~$350 - $500, depending on which scanner you get.
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Let's stop and think...You have a no crank and everything goes dead when you turn the key to start. What is the battery voltage, checked with a digital volt meter at the battery itself cables off? If it's not 12.6 it need the battery charged, checked and or replaced. Clean all ends of both cables and with a fully charged battery and the cables hooked up hook the voltmeter to the battery and turn the key and see what it reads.
Passlock has nothing to do with it cranking, passlock will allow it to start and it will die when the key is released.
Passlock has nothing to do with it cranking, passlock will allow it to start and it will die when the key is released.
Agree with above. A decent bi-directional scanner will pay for itself sooner than you think. Also keep a close eye on those side post battery terminals. If they haven't caused any problems yet just wait, they will.
east302
Full Access Member
Here’s the wiring diagram for the starting circuit. With someone holding the ignition in start, check for voltage on the small purple wire at the starter. See if that wire is even intact - I’ve broken two during starter replacements.
If no voltage there, start checking further back - the CRANK fuse and starter relay are the more accessible points.
Edit: Does it start in neutral?
If no voltage there, start checking further back - the CRANK fuse and starter relay are the more accessible points.
Edit: Does it start in neutral?
