Negative camber only in reverse?

[Colby_e32]

Offset bushings are installed correctly. 100% sure. They were installed in the arms when I purchased.

I marked everything with a paint marker before disassembly, reinstalled exactly as before.

The adjustment cams are maxed out, I know that for sure because I tried adjusting them previously, and they are set to where the camber would be max positive.

I don’t trust any alignment guy or shop guy, I’ve always done my own work, very familiar with this truck and many others.

here are a couple pictures of the cams, and the arms. I’ll get some pictures of each part tomorrow. I was told to try some aftermarket cams, which may require egging or slotting the holes in the frame which is fine.

truck does drive really good now the toe is correct. Keys ride much smoother than de cranked stock torsion keys. However I know this camber and caster will probably wear my tires fast.

 

[Colby_e32]

here are the cams. working from left to right. Outside being closest to the front of the truck, inside being closest to the rear axle.

 

[1992rs]

That was going to be my next suggestion. Something like the belltech cams, and open the slots on the frame a little more.

To be quite honest, I feel like the tech didn’t know what he was doing or too lazy to put in the work. There’s really no reason why it wouldn’t align into spec.

I’ve dabbled with alignments myself here and there, but my favorite tech even said that these aren’t the easiest to align, especially lowered. Just not a lot of room to get to the cams

Good luck. I’m curious to see the outcome. Hopefully you get everything squared away without too much hassle.


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[1992rs]

here are the cams. working from left to right. Outside being closest to the front of the truck, inside being closest to the rear axle.

View attachment 261678 View attachment 261679 View attachment 261680 View attachment 261681 View attachment 261682

Didn’t see the pictures before I replied. That’s a head scratcher for sure to be that far away from spec and maxed out. I’d say aftermarket cams is the best solution for the time being.


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[exp500]

Just so we are on same page- Top of tire leaning in both sides? If so, rotate bushings 180 degrees. AND MARK them. it sounds like they were moving in control arm in reverse. Many of these have to be loctited and staked to not move.

 

[exp500]

When you are assembling these, It must be done at ride height so the offset angles are correct. Easy to check with your gauge, but spindle must be mounted. It is a real PITA to assemble measure disassemble. The Cams are only to give you a little adjustment room- fine tuning. You may need offset ball joints or other crazy stuff like bend frame straight. Torsion bars last to go in. know what I mean? Mix and match parts makes it worse.

 

[Colby_e32]

Just so we are on same page- Top of tire leaning in both sides? If so, rotate bushings 180 degrees. AND MARK them. it sounds like they were moving in control arm in reverse. Many of these have to be loctited and staked to not move.

I follow what you’re saying. I had LESS camber before installing these arms. I had negative 1.8 degrees driver side, and negative 1.6 degrees passenger side.

everyone says the offset faces the engine. Which is the way they are in. I did not install the bushings. They are moog problem solver control arms.

I think rotating them would only make the problem worse, but I won’t know until I try it.

 

[exp500]

You kinda answered my concerns. But you Still never answered about is it still changing in reverse after alignment? So you installed UCA bushings to push control arm out and you are still negative. Then adjusted cams max and still negative. Nothing loose up front. If you added an offset Lower ball joint, would those dimensions work with tire clearances? Push lower outboard. Offset upper clearances? After those then its Adjustable control arms (upper). You really don't want front end moving around, ride height changes, alignment changes just because you changed direction of travel.
The UCA you bought were 2 degree? Check lower ball joints.

 

[exp500]

Re-read everything. More questions. did you compare UCA's, measure them? Verify part numbers?
Did you only change lower ball joint or control arm? Change LCA bushings? Bet bushings shot or you are sitting on something too.

 

[Colby_e32]

You kinda answered my concerns. But you Still never answered about is it still changing in reverse after alignment? So you installed UCA bushings to push control arm out and you are still negative. Then adjusted cams max and still negative. Nothing loose up front. If you added an offset Lower ball joint, would those dimensions work with tire clearances? Push lower outboard. Offset upper clearances? After those then its Adjustable control arms (upper). You really don't want front end moving around, ride height changes, alignment changes just because you changed direction of travel.
The UCA you bought were 2 degree? Check lower ball joints.

My camber in reverse issue is still there after the alignment.

I installed the moog problem solver control arms. As they are “supposed” to give 2 degrees of positive camber. I was expecting my camber to be around 0 degrees maybe .5 degree.... here I am. Same ride height, offset control arms, problem got worse...

lower balljoints are brand new. Inner and outer tie rods are brand new, Pitman arm and Idler arm (brand new GM parts).

offset bushings didn’t fix the issue. So I believe I’m going to have to install a LONGER aftermarket control arm, maybe from Michigan metal works etc.

Belltech does sell a camber kit, which you have to REAM the holes out on the frame, however their kit only allows 1 degree additional positive camber to correct the negative camber. (Not enough)