My tip for plug #8

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sumo

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i was able to get to plug 8 easily with a 3/8 ratchet, 5/8 plug socket and cheater bar. No swivels needed. It's easier to remove the bracket for the trans dip. I Pb blasted the bolt holding it (15 mm). Once removed. I zipped tied the tube out of the way. Now I was able to fit a ratchet and plug socket perfectly with plenty of space to swing a cheater bar. Also recommend using Pb blasting the plug. Last thing you'd want to do is. Trying to heilicoil repair in that spot. Hope that helps

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Erik G

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get the smallest extension and you dont even need to move the tube. I had no problems whatsoever but I used different combinations of ratchets and extensions on each plub, and the magnetic plug socket from autozone. Evetybody here had me worried for nothing
 

iamdub

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...Evetybody here had me worried for nothing

Word. Sometimes you just gotta turn the interwebz off and figure it out for yourself. I read that removing the headlight required some sort of excruciating front end disassembly, but the headlight can be wrangled out without doing so if you put down a couple layers of masking tape to protect the bumper. I followed this and was slow and careful and used flat plastic pry tools, but there's a couple of tabs on the bottom of the light that sliced through the tape and nicked the bumper. I found that this could've been avoided and the whole process would've gone quicker and easier had I just removed 4 or 5 screws and a couple of plastic rivets to move that side of the bumper a couple inches and out of harm's way.
 

02Lightning

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I went through the fender well with an extension and a swivel, after I got the fender liner loose. I had more trouble getting the wire back on the plug than anything.
 

#1taho

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Regular ratchet 1" extension and spark plug socket. Taking the spark plug wire off that's another ball game. Takes the skin off your knuckles every time!
 

Rocket Man

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Regular ratchet 1" extension and spark plug socket. Taking the spark plug wire off that's another ball game. Takes the skin off your knuckles every time!
Exactly, SK makes a 1" extension that's advertised as 1 1/2". Works perfect along with a plug socket and regular ratchet. I just did all my plugs in about 1/2 hour.
 

TheAutumnWind

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get the smallest extension and you dont even need to move the tube. I had no problems whatsoever but I used different combinations of ratchets and extensions on each plub, and the magnetic plug socket from autozone. Evetybody here had me worried for nothing


This is what I did, and I suppose its why I couldn't understand how everyone seemed to have so much issue with this plug.


Maybe after doing countless Fbody spark plug changes this seemed relatively straight forward lol
 
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sumo

sumo

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Turns out I don't even need to do it the way I mentioned. I just lay on top of the radiator support and just use a ratchet and spark plug socket.
 

Erik G

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I'm not super tall, 5'10. I have a 4 inch high density foam step, about 30x30. It was the bottom of the shipping box of a big AC unit. I hate getting rid of stuff like that. Perfect big safe step stool and if I threw it away it would never ever decompose...

Just saying because yes, part of it is the angle you are working at, and part of it is the tools. The last part is your ingenuity and gettin it done...
 
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sumo

sumo

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I find it works better if you yell at it or call it dirty names like come on you *****. Well that's how it goes in my shop anyways
 
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sumo

sumo

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I called mine a dirty dirty ***** bag when I was trying to align the supercharger to the intake ports while trying to keep the gaskets aligned.
 

gGM Fan

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So did anyone notice a difference at all after you replaced the plugs in terms of performance, smoothness or better fuel economy?
 

Erik G

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Yes to all. 2011 90k. I took off the metal shields, I hate those damn things. Still have the original wires and it idles smooth as a cloud

I was chasing an idle stutter. I added heat to the tank and switched gas stations. Seriously, water in the gas. I thought that was a myth...
 

sprinter

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Eric, did you find that the used plugs did not all look the same... meaning some plugs were more fouled than others? If so, do you recall which ones? Was this the first plug change for the truck?
 

Erik G

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Good question. Yes, all plugs looked the same. Not even a difference in the color of the threads. The color of the side of the electrodes looked good. I do believe they were original, the tips were quite worn and GM says 100k right?

For the record, I am mostly an old car guy and I do know the difference plugs make. On old cars I still use old school cheap copper NGK. No need for triple V unubtainium coated salesman crap
 

08grey

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Just don't lean on the heater core hose. The connectors are plastic and get brittle and will snap down the road.
 

02Lightning

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Mine ran smoother after a plug/wire change after 87k. All the plugs looked the same, and were stilled gapped at .040", looks to me they could have gone a lot longer. I went with ACDELCO wires and plugs, torqued at 11 ft. lbs.
 

sprinter

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That's interesting that both Eric and 02Lightning had the same experience with plugs equally worn. I noticed on multiple occasions that earlier models 08-11 seem to have #1 plug much more fouled than the rest. It is a result of an early valve cover design that was then modified, I believe in 2011. Anyone else notice that?
 

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