My Boom Box

[BigDaddy13440]

What size alternator do you have, I want to upgrade subs but don't know how powerful i can go

Your Planet Audio amp and his HiFonics amp are pretty much the same power, and probably draw about the same amperage from the alternator. FWIW, I have a stock alternator, and the "1000w rms" Lightning Audio amp I have draws enough power to make my lights dim just a little bit, but only on the very heaviest of bass (Techmaster PEB, Bass 305 and the like). I only have one battery, and it's just fine. Once you start getting up over 2000 watts rms, then you need to go to very-high output alternators, and multiple/dedicated batteries. If you're under 2000, then a higher-output stock-case alternator with a single battery should suffice - check and see if the PPV Tahoes had a 145 or 160 amp version.

Just re-read your post..... no need to change alternators or amps if you are just looking to upgrade your subs. They don't draw any power, it's the amp that does. You could get some 24" Sundown Audio subs, or a 32" Deaf Bonce sub (http://alphard.audio/us/subwoofers/deafbonce-db-832neo) from Russia, and run your same PA amp to them - your power consumption will be the same.

 

[02_Tahoe]

Your Planet Audio amp and his HiFonics amp are pretty much the same power, and probably draw about the same amperage from the alternator. FWIW, I have a stock alternator, and the "1000w rms" Lightning Audio amp I have draws enough power to make my lights dim just a little bit, but only on the very heaviest of bass (Techmaster PEB, Bass 305 and the like). I only have one battery, and it's just fine. Once you start getting up over 2000 watts rms, then you need to go to very-high output alternators, and multiple/dedicated batteries. If you're under 2000, then a higher-output stock-case alternator with a single battery should suffice - check and see if the PPV Tahoes had a 145 or 160 amp version.

Just re-read your post..... no need to change alternators or amps if you are just looking to upgrade your subs. They don't draw any power, it's the amp that does. You could get some 24" Sundown Audio subs, or a 32" Deaf Bonce sub (http://alphard.audio/us/subwoofers/deafbonce-db-832neo) from Russia, and run your same PA amp to them - your power consumption will be the same.

I mean upgrade the amp too, and my amp is an anarchy 1500 but it's 1500 max rms, it's only 600rms for subs that are 500rms

 

[MrMiller]

What size alternator do you have, I want to upgrade subs but don't know how powerful i can go

I'm still running the stock on


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[inmypassatlife]

hell, i had 3-8" Soundsplinter RL-i's in my HHR that hit 154Db, I am sure a trio of 12's or 4-10's downfire would be great behind the third row.

 

[BigDaddy13440]

I mean upgrade the amp too, and my amp is an anarchy 1500 but it's 1500 max rms, it's only 600rms for subs that are 500rms

1500 max is a far cry from 1500 rms, as you know. If it's rated at 600rms, is that clean, certified power, uncertified power, or dynamic power? If you're unsure, check out Steve Meade's YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAn7KfxuoxUur8dP-lFCjdA, he's pretty much "the guru" of car audio installs nowadays.

As far as 600 watts for subs rated at 500 watts, is that 600 rms @ 4 ohms? At 2 ohms? Do you have single or dual voice coil subs, and how are they wired? What ohm load are you showing to your amp? Is your amp stable to 2 ohms, or 1 ohm? The reason I'm asking is that, theoretically, I doubled the power to my subs by changing my single voice coil subs (wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load) over to dual coil subs (all coils in parallel for a 1 ohm load). My LA amp is rated at 500 watts at 2 ohms, and 1000 at 1 ohm - most "better" amps come close to doubling the power as the load is cut in half (cut in half is actually increasing the load).

And for your 500rms rated subs, I suppose that's 500rms each? So you can have an amp that puts out 1000 watts at the ohm load your subs are presenting to your amp, and you're fine. If your amp puts out more than the rated RMS for your subs, that's actually EVEN BETTER! That means the amp doesn't have to work as hard to push your subs, and it'll put out clean, UNDISTORTED power, just turn the gains down on the amp. Distortion is what kills speakers, not an over-abundance of power! Granted, I wouldn't run a 3000 watt rms amplifier into subs that are only rated for 500 watts, UNLESS the gains on the amp were turned waaaay down, and I was careful with the volume knob. It's called Headroom, when you have more available power than what the speakers can handle - the RMS rating on speakers is typically at 1% THD (total harmonic distortion). If you have more clean power (lower distortion!), you can safely run it all day long.

Now that I'm out of breath.....whew!

 

[RVATahoe]

2 10" Powerbass M-1004D's in the rear quarter panel, powered by a Lightning Audio 1001.d 1000 watt monoblack @ 1 ohm.... Have (almost) matching grey carpet, just have to find time to wrap it and put the grill back on....

View attachment 80250

Exactly what I want in my 06 Tahoe. Any dims? Build post?

 

[M1Gunner]

Here’s a custom box I built for my hoe. In the process off wrapping it now. Houses 4 12’s

 

[Gossamer]

My ported 8" sub tube. Got the tube as a $25 experiment instead of making a sonotube and it works surprisingly well. It fits behind the 3rd row pretty easily and leaves me quite a lot of room.

Just wondering how you placed it?
I have a 10" bazooka tube.
Which direction do you have it facing?

 

[willinnashville]

Just wondering how you placed it?
I have a 10" bazooka tube.
Which direction do yiu have it facing?

I have it toward the driver's side, with the woofer pointed toward the side panel. Here's a picture:

 

[OB 04Denali]

2 10" Powerbass M-1004D's in the rear quarter panel, powered by a Lightning Audio 1001.d 1000 watt monoblack @ 1 ohm.... Have (almost) matching grey carpet, just have to find time to wrap it and put the grill back on....

View attachment 80250

Wo wo woooooo Look at this. Now this gives me more ides on what can fit back there bit smaller though. sweet

 

[BigDaddy13440]

Wo wo woooooo Look at this. Now this gives me more ides on what can fit back there bit smaller though. sweet

Looks a whole lot better once it's carpeted.

Roughly 2.7-2.8 cu ft, 4" diameter port, tuned to roughly 28-30hz. I'd rather give up some maximum output for increased power handling and low-frequency extension, which results from tuning below the vehicle's resonant frequency. I don't have a meter, but my seat-of-my-pants Spidey Sense feels like 33-35hz is the sweet spot - I found a test tone generator online, and swept from 50hz down to 20, and back up a few times. Below about 27hz, things start to get sloppy, but seeing as how I'm not into rebassed rap music, works just fine for me.

Aluminum flashing tape, covering the holes that I sprayed expanding foam into to deaden the quarter panel.

 

[BigDaddy13440]

I'm thinking I may have pushed the subs too hard, these are only rated at 275 rms and 550 peak. IF my amp pushes its rated power, I've been running 500rms to each. Looking for some high-efficiency 10's that can handle 600-1000rms, without breaking the bank. The only subs I've found so far are some Dayton Audio ** 10's, 600rms/1200peak with a sensitivity of 90.5:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-**-dvc-subwoofer--295-463

Assuming all other things being equal, 500rms into these will be comparable to 1000rms into an 87.5 db sensitivity sub, and 2000rms into a 84.5 db sensitivity. It takes double the power to gain 3db, so I'm reverse-engineering that theory.

 

[massivespl]

I wanna show off toooo

 

[massivespl]

I'm thinking I may have pushed the subs too hard, these are only rated at 275 rms and 550 peak. IF my amp pushes its rated power, I've been running 500rms to each. Looking for some high-efficiency 10's that can handle 600-1000rms, without breaking the bank. The only subs I've found so far are some Dayton Audio ** 10's, 600rms/1200peak with a sensitivity of 90.5:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-**-dvc-subwoofer--295-463

Assuming all other things being equal, 500rms into these will be comparable to 1000rms into an 87.5 db sensitivity sub, and 2000rms into a 84.5 db sensitivity. It takes double the power to gain 3db, so I'm reverse-engineering that theory.

That’s Dayton is a decent woofer...
What happens 99% of the time is you over work your amp and send a clipped signal and burn up your woofer... when a amp says 500watts at 1ohm, it doesn’t mean it will be pushing 500watts all the time. When playing music the ohm load fluctuates so much and most will be in the 4-6ohm... so most people think there 500watts amp blew there 500watts speakers but really clipping did... it’s better to have a wayyy bigger amp and have clean power

 

[OB 04Denali]

Looks a whole lot better once it's carpeted.

Roughly 2.7-2.8 cu ft, 4" diameter port, tuned to roughly 28-30hz. I'd rather give up some maximum output for increased power handling and low-frequency extension, which results from tuning below the vehicle's resonant frequency. I don't have a meter, but my seat-of-my-pants Spidey Sense feels like 33-35hz is the sweet spot - I found a test tone generator online, and swept from 50hz down to 20, and back up a few times. Below about 27hz, things start to get sloppy, but seeing as how I'm not into rebassed rap music, works just fine for me.

View attachment 196962

View attachment 196965

Aluminum flashing tape, covering the holes that I sprayed expanding foam into to deaden the quarter panel.

View attachment 196964

View attachment 196963

View attachment 196966

Defeinitly does. how did you mount the subs? just another panel under the cover ?

 

[OB 04Denali]

That’s Dayton is a decent woofer...
What happens 99% of the time is you over work your amp and send a clipped signal and burn up your woofer... when a amp says 500watts at 1ohm, it doesn’t mean it will be pushing 500watts all the time. When playing music the ohm load fluctuates so much and most will be in the 4-6ohm... so most people think there 500watts amp blew there 500watts speakers but really clipping did... it’s better to have a wayyy bigger amp and have clean power

Question now is, i have everything electricly hooked up already. the 5th channel on the PDX-V9 i have left 500W RMS, open for the rear sub or subs. just going to SQ not crazy blast my face off. should i go with 2 10inch, 2 8inches? 1 10 considering i do something like your set up and remove that panel all together

 

[massivespl]

I'm thinking I may have pushed the subs too hard, these are only rated at 275 rms and 550 peak. IF my amp pushes its rated power, I've been running 500rms to each. Looking for some high-efficiency 10's that can handle 600-1000rms, without breaking the bank. The only subs I've found so far are some Dayton Audio ** 10's, 600rms/1200peak with a sensitivity of 90.5:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-**-dvc-subwoofer--295-463

Assuming all other things being equal, 500rms into these will be comparable to 1000rms into an 87.5 db sensitivity sub, and 2000rms into a 84.5 db sensitivity. It takes double the power to gain 3db, so I'm reverse-engineering that theory.

http://www.caraudiobargain.com/b-stock-sundown-audio-sa-10-600w-sa-series/

This is a good woofer around the same price as the Dayton

 

[M1Gunner]

I wanna show off toooo

Damn, that hoe’s ass be bangin!

 

[BigDaddy13440]

Defeinitly does. how did you mount the subs? just another panel under the cover ?

I made a recessed panel to mount them on, it's in about 2" from the grille. The grill itself has flanges on each of the four sides, it can be press-fit into place, it's that snug. But I have some pan head cabinet screws holding it on anyway. I planned ahead, and allowed for some subs with more excursion. I can probably get subs with over 2" of peak-to-peak excursion, and still be more than 1/4" from the grille.

Everything was made out of Lowe's "blonde" plywood, it's 7 ply, finished on both sides - basically it's cabinet grade. As I don't have any extremely large panels (the top is the biggest, at 49" by 9") without reinforcements, I wasn't concerned with panels flexing. And, as I don't intend on running massive amounts of power (my current 1000 watts is just fine, might run 1500 when I upgrade subs), I didn't feel the need for a double baffle. If I have some port turbulence, I can always enlarge the port to 6", which will make me go with a longer port, and reduce enclosure volume. That will also allow me to handle a bit more power safely.

 

[BigDaddy13440]

http://www.caraudiobargain.com/b-stock-sundown-audio-sa-10-600w-sa-series/

This is a good woofer around the same price as the Dayton

I know Sundown makes excellent gear, both amps and speakers.
But, checking here:
http://sundownaudio.com/index.php/subwoofers/sa-series

I saw that the sensitivity is only 81.0 and 81.6 for the dual 2 and dual 4 10's respectively.
Taking that into consideration, and again, all other things being equal and seeing a gain of 3db for each doubling of power, I'd have to run 8X the power to the SA10's as to the Dayton's. If I can run 600rms all day long to the Dayton's, I'd have to step up to Sundown Team Series to be able to run 4800rms. And since they don't offer a 10", I'd have to "step down" to the Nightshades. And even then, they wouldn't fit in my enclosure, I've got about 6 1/2" of depth to work with.
I'm trying to be as efficient as possible, both with sound output, and with my XL's electrical. I swapped in a 253 amp alt from a 3500 series pickup (direct swap, only $118 on eBay), and have wire to do a dual run of 1/0, the Big 4, and dual batteries under the hood. I certainly won't have to add another battery in the rear, nor would I have space. My amp(s) are/will be mounted under the second row seats, as is a DC-to-AC converter for my battery chargers (drills and other cordless tools).