Missing OBD pins
- Thread starter TeaSpoon
- Start date
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drakon543
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those are typically changed as a whole. its foolish to just fight with swapping those pins. sometimes they dont like to stay on place. you may have to follow the alternative method of programming your fobs. i dont remember it off hand but its something about the ignition switch and hitting some buttons in the correct order and time.
I believe it is this. It worked for my 2002
Step-by-Step How To Programming Instructions:
Or this if you like you tube:
Step-by-Step How To Programming Instructions:
- CLOSE all doors.
- INSERT key into the ignition.
- PRESS and HOLD the power UNLOCK button on driver’s side door panel. DO NOT release until instructed to do so in Step 5.
- Quickly TURN the Ignition ON, OFF, ON, OFF. (ON is the position just shy of starting your vehicle, OFF is the position where you can remove your key)
- RELEASE the power UNLOCK button on the Driver’s side door panel. The vehicle should respond by locking and unlocking automatically. (A) If locks cycle then CONTINUE to Step 6. (B) If the door locks begin to LOCK and UNLOCK BEFORE releasing the unlock button then the vehicle has not entered Programming Mode and you must START OVER. REMOVE key, OPEN door and RETURN to Step 1. (C) If the vehicle continues to LOCK and UNLOCK before releasing the UNLOCK button then there is a problem with the vehicle’s system and remotes must be programmed by a certified professional. If you are unable to get the door locks to cycle then you are turning the key too quick, too slow, there’s a problem with the vehicle’s system, or the vehicle is not equipped with a factory keyless entry system.
- HOLD the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the remote at the same time until door locks cycle again. This could take up to 30 seconds.
- Now REPEAT Step 6 for all additional remotes to be programmed, including working ones.
- After Step 6 has been performed for all remotes TURN ignition to ON to exit programming mode.
- TURN ignition to OFF, and remove key.
- Test all remotes. Programming is complete.
Or this if you like you tube:
The video says that it covers back to 1998. You have a GMT 430.
Yes, that’s the typical way to reprogram key fobs. I think I need to rewrite my post. The issue isn’t programming a fob, the issue is that the typical way uses a jumper from pin 4 to 8, and my obd port is missing pins 8 and 13, which are in all the other gmt400 series trucks (gmt400-480) that I’ve seen.
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Ok, so what is pin #8 for? If it is a ground then that is simple to just use a close ground unless it HAS to be a ground in the ECM.
Ok. Like James said, the pin may be there but not in the connector. Have you looked? Just curious? Looks like the connector they used is this one then?
Pin
Number Pin
Name Description
1 SW-LS-CAN (33kB) or DW-FT-CAN (+) (<125kB)
2 J1850 n/a
3 MS-CAN (+) (95kB)
4 GND Chassis ground
5 SGND Signal Ground
6 HS-CAN ISO 15765 HS-CAN (+) (500kB)
7 K-Line n/a
8 n/a
9 DW-FT-CAN (-) (<125kB)
10 PWM n/c
11 MS-CAN (-) (95kB)
12 K-Line (KW82 Prot.)
13 reserved
14 HS-CAN(-) ISO 15765 HS-CAN (-) (500kB)
15 L-Line n/a
16 Battery+ Battery +, unswitched
Pin
Number Pin
Name Description
1 SW-LS-CAN (33kB) or DW-FT-CAN (+) (<125kB)
2 J1850 n/a
3 MS-CAN (+) (95kB)
4 GND Chassis ground
5 SGND Signal Ground
6 HS-CAN ISO 15765 HS-CAN (+) (500kB)
7 K-Line n/a
8 n/a
9 DW-FT-CAN (-) (<125kB)
10 PWM n/c
11 MS-CAN (-) (95kB)
12 K-Line (KW82 Prot.)
13 reserved
14 HS-CAN(-) ISO 15765 HS-CAN (-) (500kB)
15 L-Line n/a
16 Battery+ Battery +, unswitched
If they got the wrong connector the rest of the pins may be there and wires spliced and you could get the right connector and then wire that one in?
Yeah I checked behind the connector and the wires are all taped up right to the plug, none are missing out of the plug or falling out. Not sure if from the factory they taped them up for that short 3” run from the main harness, it thinking they’re in there somewhere and never got plugged back in because someone didn’t know where they went on a rewire
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I’m thinking I need to unwrap those wires and pull the cover off the main harness and see if they’re wrapped in somewhere. If I could figure out where the CCM and SIR lines originate I can trace them that way too.
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Good call. Gotta go exploring. If you know for sure the other connector was in there to begin with then the wires have to be there, IMO.
That could be #8 missing if the truck was originally made with the connector in my #9 post.
Yea, where I found it, it was not clearly marked. Sounds like you have some exploring to do. Oh joy! 
HiHoeSilver
Away!
Dont forget that those 2000 OBS trucks (Tahoe Limited, Z71, Yukon Denali, Escslade) were weird ducks.
I may try to find an upfitters guide for one of them. Or maybe for a 99? @Doubeleive, @swathdiver, @wjburken? Anybody know where to look for those?
I may try to find an upfitters guide for one of them. Or maybe for a 99? @Doubeleive, @swathdiver, @wjburken? Anybody know where to look for those?
should be here under 2000 current c/k 1500, or look at the 99's should be the same for the obs
https://www.gmupfitter.com/pdflists/view/6
