Lost the 6.2 (was: May have Lost the 6.2)

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JayceeP

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Service advisor just called. Yukon is ready for pickup, I won’t be able to get until Monday due to the holidays…but they said it’s ready to go!
You keeping the truck? Or I supposed that depends on how it goes? Wishing you the best.
 

JayceeP

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Probably keeping it. It’s the best thing to do financially. In theory it’s the devil I know vs the one I dont
Yeah I hear ya. Extra bump in warranty with the new engine too right? Or is that for those that passed the pico and didn’t fail.
 
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WalleyeMikeIII

WalleyeMikeIII

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Yeah I hear ya. Extra bump in warranty with the new engine too right? Or is that for those that passed the pico and didn’t fail.
No change in warranty. Still have the 5yr/60k powertrain plus the “special coverage” 15yr/150k miles for connecting rod bearing failures.
 

JayceeP

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No change in warranty. Still have the 5yr/60k powertrain plus the “special coverage” 15yr/150k miles for connecting rod bearing failures.
Oh - I thought the whole engine was given the extended warranty. Good to know.
 
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WalleyeMikeIII

WalleyeMikeIII

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You gonna use 0w20, 0w30, or 0w40 in it?
Right now it has 0w20, as that’s what they put in it. Long term, not sure.

Dealer confirmed I still have the special coverage to 10 years or 150,000 miles so probably need to stay with the recommended oil. Although not sure how they could be opposed to me using 0W 40.
 

2024 White Tahoe

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Right now it has 0w20, as that’s what they put in it. Long term, not sure.

Dealer confirmed I still have the special coverage to 10 years or 150,000 miles so probably need to stay with the recommended oil. Although not sure how they could be opposed to me using 0W 40.


I would like to know the truth behind GM’s switch to a different grade of oil for the recalled 6.2 L engines that passed their dealer inspection, versus their warranty requirement and recommendation for their new engines that are replacements or made after the recall engine period (and not internet speculation).
 
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WalleyeMikeIII

WalleyeMikeIII

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I would like to know the truth behind GM’s switch to a different grade of oil for the recalled 6.2 L engines that passed their dealer inspection, versus their warranty requirement and recommendation for their new engines that are replacements or made after the recall engine period (and not internet speculation).
We all would love to know that!
 

Marky Dissod

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I would like to know the truth behind GM’s switch to a different grade of oil for the recalled L87s that passed their dealer inspection ...
Just 'cause it passed the PICO test, does not mean that it will NOT fail at a later date, it's a gamble.
Even if it may eventually fail, 0w40 MAY help get it past the warranty, at which point GM abruptly stops giving a schidt.
Suspect many L87swill not make it to 200,000 miles.
Remember that 0w40 approaches something between 5w30 & 10w20 after 8000 miles of direct injection sneaking past cold-started piston rings,
whereas 0w20 approaches 5w16 after similar exposure.
... versus their warranty requirement and recommendation for their new engines that are replacements or made after the recall engine period (and not internet speculation).
The engines they're NOT worried about will get viscosity recommendations in line with licking CAFE's 8@11$, until they get revised sometime next month or so.
We all would love to know that!
Look up the phrase 'Stribeck curve' (likely spelled correctly?), then watch some youtube videos by the Motor Oil Geek.
Disagree with a tribologist, at your risk.
 

Vladimir2306

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Congratulations, but my advice is to change your oil after 700-800 miles, and again after 1000-1200 miles. And it should definitely be 0-20 oil. The thinner the oil, the better it will wash out all the dirt from the engine.
 

Marky Dissod

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Congratulations, but my advice is to change your oil after 700-800 miles, and again after 1000-1200 miles.
500, 1500, 3000, 5000, 7500, 10500, 14000, 18000, 22500, & 27500, then do an oil analysis to see how far you can push it, with one caveat:
If the engine consumes more than 0.5 Quarts, just change the oil already.
And it should definitely be 0w20. The thinner the oil, the better it will wash out all the dirt from the engine.
PLEASE provide data to back up this statement.
 

JayceeP

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FWIW, Date Code on my new engine is 25317, which means it was built on Nov 13, 2025.

Plant code is N, anyone know which facility this is?
Is the date code viewable when the engine is installed? Ie if I was buying a used vehicle with a 6.2 could I easily see the date code?
 

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