loose steering

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MassHoe04

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When the Idler Arm is deemed "bad", is it just the arm on the end that is bad? What are the odds of the rest of the assembly needing replacement? Will just the arm do the trick or should I do the whole thing?

Just the arm might be cheaper, but bolting in a new assembly with the arm on it seems like it might be an easier and faster process.

Advice from you is appreciated.

I will need to do Pitman arm, Idler and upper control arms.
Probably in spring.
 
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JPVortex

JPVortex

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Having a debate in my head right now, ordering parts today for the idler and pitman arms, but I already know the ones on there are seized on pretty good. I have a pickle fork to get them off. However I'm having a stupid debate in my head, should I get them unseized first before the parts come, then slide em back in for the next few days, or should I just wait and do it all at once? lmao
 

OR VietVet

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Do it when the parts get there if you need to drive it but if ok not to drive it, start the teardown, unless you are worried about taking it apart and forgetting how it goes back together.
 
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JPVortex

JPVortex

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Do it when the parts get there if you need to drive it but if ok not to drive it, start the teardown, unless you are worried about taking it apart and forgetting how it goes back together.
I'll remember how it goes together, but I definitely need it for the rest of the week, need to tow my dads motorcycle to the harley dealer for work.

I'm just worried those studs are going to give me a hard time, so part of me feels like it'll be easier to get them out now. But if they're rusty enough who knows if they'll even go back into the hole.
 

OR VietVet

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Spray some penetrant and let them soak in it for a couple days. Spray more than once. You must live in a salt on the roads state.
 

OR VietVet

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Where those studs go thru the center link, give them a good smack at the center link but not as hard or as big a hammer on the pitman arm stud area because you are jarring the pitman arm all the way back to the output shaft of the steering gear box. Spray penetrant liberally all over that area and when you know you are gonna change them, back the attaching nuts off and spray right down the shaft and let soak for about 30-40 minutes and then spray again and start to separate it all.
 

DadsToy

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I would like to know if you get the pitman arm off the steering box. I couldn't get mine off. Tried everything. Ended up getting a new steering box and installed a new pitman arm. Totally rebuilt the whole front end. Good luck. With all that rust. I would go ahead and replace the center link, tie rods too.
 
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JPVortex

JPVortex

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Hi so I'm replacing the pitman and idler arms today. However when taking the lower steering shaft off the gear box the intermediate shaft slid out a bit. It's still connected to the steering wheel. I've tried for an hour to line it up and push it all the way back in but it's not going anywhere, it feels like it's as far back as itll go and wont go any further. Any suggestions?


20230212_122255.jpg
 

nonickatall

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I would also inspect the wheel bearings.

The tires are also important and should not have any vertical or lateral runout and what is even more important:

Is the toe, camber and caster correct? The axle and tires can be as good as new. If toe, camber and caster are incorrect, the vehicle may steer in all directions and feel like a loose steering.
 
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JPVortex

JPVortex

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I would like to know if you get the pitman arm off the steering box. I couldn't get mine off. Tried everything. Ended up getting a new steering box and installed a new pitman arm. Totally rebuilt the whole front end. Good luck. With all that rust. I would go ahead and replace the center link, tie rods too.
I got mine out, took me around 6 hours total of going back and forth to it. Required 2 pitman arm tools because the first broke. What ended up getting it out was cutting into the pitman arm and stopping right before I would hit the splines of the gear box. I did v shaped overlapping cuts in 2 different spots and it came right off.
 

DadsToy

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I got mine out, took me around 6 hours total of going back and forth to it. Required 2 pitman arm tools because the first broke. What ended up getting it out was cutting into the pitman arm and stopping right before I would hit the splines of the gear box. I did v shaped overlapping cuts in 2 different spots and it came right off.
That is a lot of work just to get that arm off. I beat on mine for 4 hours. I even tried cutting it like you did. Would not move an inch. I saved a lot of time and effort by replacing the steering box and install a new arm. Was done in about an hour! Drives a whole lot better now. Glad you where able to get it off. Good work out...lol skip the gym day
 

OR VietVet

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I got mine out, took me around 6 hours total of going back and forth to it. Required 2 pitman arm tools because the first broke. What ended up getting it out was cutting into the pitman arm and stopping right before I would hit the splines of the gear box. I did v shaped overlapping cuts in 2 different spots and it came right off.
That is a lot of work just to get that arm off. I beat on mine for 4 hours. I even tried cutting it like you did. Would not move an inch. I saved a lot of time and effort by replacing the steering box and install a new arm. Was done in about an hour! Drives a whole lot better now. Glad you where able to get it off. Good work out...lol skip the gym day
I do love working on vehicles where salt is not used and parts like pitman arms, come right off.
 
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JPVortex

JPVortex

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That is a lot of work just to get that arm off. I beat on mine for 4 hours. I even tried cutting it like you did. Would not move an inch. I saved a lot of time and effort by replacing the steering box and install a new arm. Was done in about an hour! Drives a whole lot better now. Glad you where able to get it off. Good work out...lol skip the gym day
Yeah seems like replcement was the only viable option for you, and yes I'm quote stiff this morning! Lol
 
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JPVortex

JPVortex

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Hi so I'm replacing the pitman and idler arms today. However when taking the lower steering shaft off the gear box the intermediate shaft slid out a bit. It's still connected to the steering wheel. I've tried for an hour to line it up and push it all the way back in but it's not going anywhere, it feels like it's as far back as itll go and wont go any further. Any suggestions?


View attachment 391862
Also got this fixed too, removed the steering shafts out and hammered on it. It went right back in and slides back and forth as it should!
 

OR VietVet

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I started turning wrenches, gobs of years ago, in KC, Mo. where they use salt on the roads. I fought the rust for years. Then I moved to Oregon, where they use no salt around here. It flashed on me one day how much easier and nice to work on vehicles was because of no rust. Rust is something I do not worry about here. I feel sorry for ANYONE that turns a wrench with the "salt on roads" vehicles.
 

nonickatall

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I started turning wrenches, gobs of years ago, in KC, Mo. where they use salt on the roads. I fought the rust for years. Then I moved to Oregon, where they use no salt around here. It flashed on me one day how much easier and nice to work on vehicles was because of no rust. Rust is something I do not worry about here. I feel sorry for ANYONE that turns a wrench with the "salt on roads" vehicles.

This is true. Unfortunately, here in Germany we use a lot of salt and that is not good for the vehicles.

But if you regularly clean the underbody with a high-pressure cleaner, there are super nozzles that can be adjusted by 90 degrees, and treat the underbody accordingly, that's no problem.

For this I use Fluid Film and Permafilm, which are products from Germany that are normally used to preserve the ballast tanks of seawater ships.

This is great and keeps the rust at bay.

The famous German ready driver Walter Röhrl once said:
"You can't treat cars like humans, cars need love..."
:cool:
 

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