loose steering

[JPVortex]

Hi, so this has been a problem now for a while on my Tahoe, the steering just doesn't feel very good, the video explains most of all of it. When feeling or hearing for play the only "clunk" I hear is from the CV Axles on either side which I believe to be normal as that also happens on my other vehicle as well. Still have that annoying clunk when driving that I've mentioned in a previous post, but that's not related I don't think. The pitman and idler arms don't look ripped, but I'm wondering if they're worn still.

Video:

Thanks!

 

[OR VietVet]

You very well could have a steering shaft problem but a more thorough inspection is needed. May need steering gear, no matter how many times adjusted. Check steering gear mount at the frame. Need to have it running and have a friend rock the steering wheel from 10 to 2 and watch all the steering linkage for side to side and up and down slop. Use a floor jack and get under the lower control arms near the lower ball joints and lift the tire about 2" off the ground and then use a big pry bar to check for ball joint slop. Inspect ALL bushings. Inspect rear suspension as well. What is the tire pressure? Condition of tires?

 

[Fless]

Agree with @OR VietVet on a thorough inspection.

When you're moving the steering wheel like that, how far does it have to go until the gearbox output shaft starts to move? When I adjusted mine there was a point of tightening that resulted in no shaft response. We had to back it off nearly a full turn to get it to move with the wheel. Even then there's *some* back and forth of the steering wheel, but not as much as there was before we adjusted it.

 

[JPVortex]

You very well could have a steering shaft problem but a more thorough inspection is needed. May need steering gear, no matter how many times adjusted. Check steering gear mount at the frame. Need to have it running and have a friend rock the steering wheel from 10 to 2 and watch all the steering linkage for side to side and up and down slop. Use a floor jack and get under the lower control arms near the lower ball joints and lift the tire about 2" off the ground and then use a big pry bar to check for ball joint slop. Inspect ALL bushings. Inspect rear suspension as well. What is the tire pressure? Condition of tires?

Alright I'll check everything out, from what I saw before the bushings and everything look alright, everything on the suspension looks okay but I'll check the linkage for play. I think the steering gear mount at the frame is alright, and how would I check if the steering shaft is worn out?

 

[JPVortex]

Agree with @OR VietVet on a thorough inspection.

When you're moving the steering wheel like that, how far does it have to go until the gearbox output shaft starts to move? When I adjusted mine there was a point of tightening that resulted in no shaft response. We had to back it off nearly a full turn to get it to move with the wheel. Even then there's *some* back and forth of the steering wheel, but not as much as there was before we adjusted it.

I'll check, with the engine on as soon as I start moving the wheel my tires do move, but the steering just still feels loose and not firm like it should.

 

[JPVortex]

You very well could have a steering shaft problem but a more thorough inspection is needed. May need steering gear, no matter how many times adjusted. Check steering gear mount at the frame. Need to have it running and have a friend rock the steering wheel from 10 to 2 and watch all the steering linkage for side to side and up and down slop. Use a floor jack and get under the lower control arms near the lower ball joints and lift the tire about 2" off the ground and then use a big pry bar to check for ball joint slop. Inspect ALL bushings. Inspect rear suspension as well. What is the tire pressure? Condition of tires?

On both tires there is a bit of a clunk on the 9 and 3 position when wiggling. I figured it was just the CV Axles making some noise, but now it's making me question if its the steering linkage, whether it be pitman and idler arms or soemthing else.

 

[OR VietVet]

I can explain here but is best if you watch multiple you tubes and get the idea of how to inspect for problems. The steering shaft, I will use the sample of mine for a 2005 since I don't see the year of yours shared, there is a small u-joint at one end and the pin coupling at the top that can wallow out and they can be noisy as when you are turning.

More Information for GM GENUINE 25958109

Now, again, at idle and with vehicle on ground, move steering left to right as I recommended and look for sideways slop and up/down-in/out slop where the tie rods and idler arm and pitman arm have the threaded studs with the grease boots on them. The steering gear pressure can cause cracks in the frame where it mounts or just have loose mounting bolts. These threaded studs for the steering and at the balls joints are made to ride on a pillow of grease and have a ball down inside the end housing. Pivoting and rolling is normal. In and out and side slop is not. Bushings look good? Cracking is not good and neither is collapsed old rubber.

 

[JPVortex]

So I wiggled my upper intermediate steering shaft, and it has a bit of wiggle every way you move it, I also hear it almost clicking/clunking slightly? Is it supposed to wiggle and stuff like this? heres the video:

 

[OR VietVet]

When I replaced mine, I had even more play and the new one completely tightened it up nicely and no more noises from it. Look at you tubes for replacement info.

When you consider the inspection for play/slop in a steering and suspension system, you have to consider this: ANY looseness in the numerous components ADDS up to the sum total of what you feel in the steering wheel. No one component may feel like it is the looseness problem but added all together and they can have a significant amount that is causing the looseness feeling and handling problem.

 

[JPVortex]

When I replaced mine, I had even more play and the new one completely tightened it up nicely and no more noises from it. Look at you tubes for replacement info.

Ok so after replacing there was no play or anything? it's a small amount of play but it still wiggles enough. I wonder if it's causing a lot of my steering issues/loose steering.

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok so after replacing there was no play or anything? it's a small amount of play but it still wiggles enough. I wonder if it's causing a lot of my steering issues/loose steering.

Read the rest of that post. I did an edit to it.

 

[DadsToy]

I just went thru the same issue on my 2001 Tahoe. After replacing everything on the front I still had a sloppy steering. I tried adjusting the steering box and it didn't make any difference. I finally replaced the steering box to fix the problem. I think you have the same issue. Look at my build thread under the construction forum (My Tahoe Project). Good luck.

 

[lyncht1967]

check this out, worked for me

GMT800 Loose Steering Fix No One Has Mentioned here or Net - Ten Minutes, NO $$$

Backstory: After two years of loose steering nearly driving me INSANE with my 2003 Tahoe 5.3. I had changed all tie rods,idler arm, shook everything else until I went MAD, even got under dash to change upper int. shaft plastic bearing cup but found that to be tight already, tightened steering...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[JPVortex]

Updating yall here!

Found a ton of play in the pitman and idler arms. No wonder why my steering feels the way it does!

 

[OR VietVet]

Updating yall here!

Found a ton of play in the pitman and idler arms. No wonder why my steering feels the way it does!

Yes, gobs of play that when add together, adds up to a bunch. Get quality replacements and do an alignment after, get a print out of that alignment and show pics of before and after settings.

 

[rockola1971]

Updating yall here!

Found a ton of play in the pitman and idler arms. No wonder why my steering feels the way it does!

I could've told you by just looking at the rusting of the idler arm that it was going to be bad. The GM 1/2 ton chassis just eats them up. That idler arm has been bad for years unless you just dipped your tahoe in the ocean 5 months ago.

Replace the Idler arm and pitman at the same time. Dont even think about using the elcheapo made in china parts. Youll be replacing them next year if you do. Get the AC Delco or Moog. I would be taking a good long look at the ball joints too. They likely are on their last leg too. Same for control arm and stabilizer bar bushings.

Typical evidence that a Idler arm is done is the vehicle seems to pull always to the right and sometime hard. This is because when you get play in the idler arm it cause the passenger front wheel to point more outward. Anything can happen if pitman arm and/or tie rods or ball joints are gone too.

When I take a vehicle down for front end work I just do it all at once. Its not that bad in costs for parts if you DIY.

Just remember Relay Rod eyelets for tie rods ALWAYS point to the REAR of the vehicle when installed correctly!

 

[JPVortex]

I could've told you by just looking at the rusting of the idler arm that it was going to be bad. The GM 1/2 ton chassis just eats them up. That idler arm has been bad for years unless you just dipped your tahoe in the ocean 5 months ago.

Replace the Idler arm and pitman at the same time. Dont even think about using the elcheapo made in china parts. Youll be replacing them next year if you do. Get the AC Delco or Moog. I would be taking a good long look at the ball joints too. They likely are on their last leg too. Same for control arm and stabilizer bar bushings.

Typical evidence that a Idler arm is done is the vehicle seems to pull always to the right and sometime hard. This is because when you get play in the idler arm it cause the passenger front wheel to point more outward. Anything can happen if pitman arm and/or tie rods or ball joints are gone too.

When I take a vehicle down for front end work I just do it all at once. Its not that bad in costs for parts if you DIY.

Just remember Relay Rod eyelets for tie rods ALWAYS point to the REAR of the vehicle when installed correctly!

Oh its definitely been bad for years, my mother had this truck before me, she bought in early 2019 and the steering was loose then.

I checked the ball joints all around for play, wiggling the tire at 12 and 6 position, no slop. Took a big breaker bar beneath the tire and pryed up while looking, not even a touch of play.

And yes my truck pulls pretty hard to the right and wanders a ton! I guess this would definitely explain why! So I guess I'll be needing another alignment after this, just got it aligned like 3 months ago too when I got tires, but of course it didn't do much because of the worn components.

Sway bar links and bushings were replaced last month.

 

[rockola1971]

Oh its definitely been bad for years, my mother had this truck before me, she bought in early 2019 and the steering was loose then.

I checked the ball joints all around for play, wiggling the tire at 12 and 6 position, no slop. Took a big breaker bar beneath the tire and pryed up while looking, not even a touch of play.

And yes my truck pulls pretty hard to the right and wanders a ton! I guess this would definitely explain why! So I guess I'll be needing another alignment after this, just got it aligned like 3 months ago too when I got tires, but of course it didn't do much because of the worn components.

Sway bar links and bushings were replaced last month.

The alignment shop should have never even loosened the tie rod locking nuts to adjust if they would have done their job and inspected the idler and pitman arm, ball joints and bushings. Id be calling the manager and ask him if this is common practice for them to "align" an unalignable vehicle and not even bother telling the customer that the steering and/or suspension is worn beyond use. There really is no excuse for it. This is basic mechanics when it comes to steering and suspension.

 

[OR VietVet]

Another example of "set the toe and let it go" alignment...waste of money.....

 

[JPVortex]

Total waste of money! Got this alignment done the same day I got tires at ******* pep boys, and I waited 5 hours for them to mount and balance them, and to do an alignment, what a joke.

In their defense I could've checked my suspension components sooner because I have been having the loose steering problem for so long.