Looking for Info on 2013 Yukon XL K1500 with SLT2 Package

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Webster

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Thinking of purchasing a 2013 Yukon XL K1500 4X4 with SLT2 Package. I'd be the 4th owner. it has just under 131K miles, and the dealer wants $19K. It's white and the paint is near perfect (1/8" chip on hood front edge). One minor accident (I believe the rear bumper cover has been replaced) and from what I see when I looked underneath (I had the dealer put it on the lift) no leaks, worn suspension components, etc. Dash has a small crack at the upper left corner of the air bag; I will likely just reinforce with tape and put a cover on it. All switches seem to work except the passenger rear captain's chair auto up/down (goes down but not up). It has aftermarket 20" wheels and will need tires. First 70K mile in South Dakota, remainder in Texas. I'm thinking of offering $17.5 or $18K, total (includes TTL). I have a 2005 SLT2 4X4 that sadly has developed the porous head issue. I'm also concerned that some parts (esp. good interior ones) are getting very sparse for the 2002-2006 models. Welcome any information regarding what major mechanical failures (if any) I should expect, reports of fuel efficiency and general impressions of this year Yukon. From what I've read 2013 seems to be one of the best years. Thanks, in advance!
 

swathdiver

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Thinking of purchasing a 2013 Yukon XL K1500 4X4 with SLT2 Package. I'd be the 4th owner. it has just under 131K miles, and the dealer wants $19K. It's white and the paint is near perfect (1/8" chip on hood front edge). One minor accident (I believe the rear bumper cover has been replaced) and from what I see when I looked underneath (I had the dealer put it on the lift) no leaks, worn suspension components, etc. Dash has a small crack at the upper left corner of the air bag; I will likely just reinforce with tape and put a cover on it. All switches seem to work except the passenger rear captain's chair auto up/down (goes down but not up). It has aftermarket 20" wheels and will need tires. First 70K mile in South Dakota, remainder in Texas. I'm thinking of offering $17.5 or $18K, total (includes TTL). I have a 2005 SLT2 4X4 that sadly has developed the porous head issue. I'm also concerned that some parts (esp. good interior ones) are getting very sparse for the 2002-2006 models. Welcome any information regarding what major mechanical failures (if any) I should expect, reports of fuel efficiency and general impressions of this year Yukon. From what I've read 2013 seems to be one of the best years. Thanks, in advance!
It is indeed the ultimate year, all of the braking and cruise control improvements were implemented by this model year.

70k miles in rusty South Dakota, that would concern me. At 131K you are about due for a major suspension overhaul and if the transmission has never been serviced, you may cross the finish line to 165K before it needs work. If it has been serviced once or twice already, it will likely run a lot longer.

Do you plan to tow with this rig? Look in the glovebox at the RPO sheet, if you see codes NP0 (single speed transfer case) and GU4 (3.08 gears), this truck is set up for highway cruising and minimal towing, 5,000 pounds max.

If you see GU6, that means she has 3.42 gears and can pull 5,700 pounds.

If you see GU6 AND K5L, then she is rated to tow 8,000 pounds.

Along with GU6, you'll find NQH which is the 2-speed transfer case and the K5L means she has the engine oil cooler, external transmission cooler, 700 watt cooling fans, etc.

AFM malfunctions are less common in these later years but still happen, dirty old oil is AFMs worst enemy and this causes the solenoids to get out of time which breaks the lifters and pushrods. If caught early, it is not an expensive repair for a DIY guy.

According to Fuelly back in 2018, the totality of all of these 5.3 long and short bodied trucks average 14.3 MPG. The engines are also FlexFuel and love to burn E85, it's like cheap race gas. They are rated for 15 city and 21 highway on gasoline.

Just like your old truck, a Tech-2 is essential in order to properly diagnose and work on these computerized trucks. Get one to go with it.
 
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Geotrash

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It is indeed the ultimate year, all of the braking and cruise control improvements were implemented by this model year.

70k miles in rusty South Dakota, that would concern me. At 131K you are about due for a major suspension overhaul and if the transmission has never been serviced, you may cross the finish line to 165K before it needs work. If it has been serviced once or twice already, it will likely run a lot longer.

Do you plan to tow with this rig? Look in the glovebox at the RPO sheet, if you see codes NP0 (single speed transfer case) and GU4 (3.08 gears), this truck is set up for highway cruising and minimal towing, 5,000 pounds max.

If you see GU6, that means she has 3.42 gears and can pull 5,700 pounds.

If you see GU6 AND K5L, then she is rated to tow 8,000 pounds.

Along with GU6, you'll find NQH which is the 2-speed transfer case and the K5L means she has the engine oil cooler, external transmission cooler, 700 watt cooling fans, etc.

AFM malfunctions are less common in these later years but still happen, dirty old oil is AFMs worst enemy and this causes the solenoids to get out of time which breaks the lifters and pushrods. If caught early, it is not an expensive repair for a DIY guy.

According to Fuelly back in 2018, the totality of all of these 5.3 long and short bodied trucks average 14.3 MPG. The engines are also FlexFuel and love to burn E85, it's like cheap race gas. They are rated for 15 city and 21 highway on gasoline.

Just like your old truck, a Tech-2 is essential in order to properly diagnose and work on these computerized trucks. Get one to go with it.
Good advice right here.
 

jdwood1111

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Good advice above as well! I am very new to GM vehicles so I cannot provide as much info as many others here but can share my brief experience. I just purchased a 2011 XL Denali with 92k on it for around $19.7k that was is very good condition as well for comparison! There was not a mark on it other than rear bumper cover and since then did find 3 minor dents that hardly any normal person would not notice. I did have the trans cooler lines and oil cooler lines replaced as they were leaking one of which I spotted during second inspection and the dealership repaired them both for me prior to final paperwork. You mentioned no leaks when looking under but just double check a second time if possible and look real close at the engine to transmission seal as my understanding there are quite a few items that cause a leak at this location. Mine still has a very minor leak there that I cannot figure out yet.

As for your last questions, I got around 14.5-15MPG when I first got it. Best was 17.3 on straight highway trip. Mind you mine is 6.2 not 5.3. Then added the Range AFM disabler based on reading here and it went down to around 13.5-14MPG. I did add a Airaid tube and AEM dry filter which added noise but nothing else worth noting. I changed power steering fluid as it was black, front diff and rear diff fluid cause they were black but the transfer case fluid was still red. Next up is the trans this fall. Plugs and wires, tires, and ball joints were done per Carfax prior to me purchasing it and everything else seems good!

Good luck with your purchase!
 

CLSVT

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I bought a 2013 Tahoe LTZ (5.3) with 129K miles this past spring and I paid more than that (although I flew south to find one with no rust). Hope the dealer sells it to you for 17.5-18K. Seems like a ok deal. I tried to talk the dealer down and after my speech he simply said "well do you want it or not". Sellers market for used cars nowadays. Love the truck, I can get above 17 mpg on reasonably flat roads running at about 50-55 mph. Good luck!
 

Airman68

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Bought my 2008 Yukon XL SLT with 188k miles for $10,800 this summer. Nice rig. Interior is spotless, exterior has some rust but not bad for the year or for Wisconsin. Kinda got screwed from the local small dealer I bought it from because it has a torque converter issue and they wanted nothing to do with fixing it. Guess thats on me now. Other than that, it pulls my boat really nice and got just shy of 18 mpg on a 500 mile trip just recently. AFM is disabled.
 

Geotrash

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Bought my 2008 Yukon XL SLT with 188k miles for $10,800 this summer. Nice rig. Interior is spotless, exterior has some rust but not bad for the year or for Wisconsin. Kinda got screwed from the local small dealer I bought it from because it has a torque converter issue and they wanted nothing to do with fixing it. Guess thats on me now. Other than that, it pulls my boat really nice and got just shy of 18 mpg on a 500 mile trip just recently. AFM is disabled.
Congrats on the purchase. What kind of TC issue? If it's a failing lockup clutch, get it out of there. Have it towed before it takes out your transmission.
 

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