Looking for comments from LTZ/autoride owners with lift/leveling kits

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SFBEE

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So after a lot of debating and searching I'm about to pull the trigger on a leveling kit on my 2013 LTZ. The searching has been around autoride and will it cause issues or not. What I would love to see people post on is how long have you had a leveling kit on your autoride truck and have you had ANY issues with that system? Seen some try it but I can't find where the report back often once they get the set up they want. My goal is 1.5" in front (thinking readylift) and 1" spacer in the rear. Thinking I can play with rear links to get it back down a touch achieving 1/2"-3/4" net rear lift. I want the front 3/4"-1" lower than front to keep some rake which I believe appears level.

So what leveling kit did you put on your tahoe with autoride/autolevel, did you have to modify front or rear links, and most importantly how long have you had it installed and any issues? Thank you for your responses. Pictures welcome. :)
 

Wakinvol

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Mine was only on for 24 hrs...didn't like the look, but I had no problems with the Autoride. It worked properly with the CCM 2.5/1 I installed and removed.
 

RoRo

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08 Yukon w/ autoride
FABTECH basic kit using factory shocks, rides a little stiff but was expected. It's only been installed 2 weeks with daily driving. My only issue may have been self caused. During the re-installation of the front shocks it specifically states to turn shock in a counter clockwise rotation to line up the brackets and control arm. Well this wasnt followed as I noticed it after the driver side install. Past couple days I've noticed what sounds like popping/clicking from the driver side suspension. Had a friend rock the Yukon while I listened and felt for any issues and seems to be coming from the drivers shock. Besides that one issue and the stiffer ride no other issues.

Besides the clicking/popping, Im also getting service suspension system, which leads me to believe I messed up my shock during install. Time for some Bilsteins and autoride disable!!!!

20130719_152708_zps3324eda4.jpg
 
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SFBEE

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Went ahead with the Readylift adjustable front leveling kit. I had it installed and set it at 1" for now. plan is to increase to 1.5" once i can get some BFG 285/55/20's underneath. only been a week but no autoride issues yet. ride is a bit stiffer but it sits nice. I will say that at the 1" setting it raised the front over 1" (I would say about 1.25") and yes, i'm very particular. any more in the front and it would definitely appear to be sagging as it's only about 3/4" higher in the rear now and i'm wondering what it looks like driving. Overall I'm pleased (so far) and really can't wait to add the .5" in the front and probably a 1" spacer in the rear. i'm sure it's talked about on here but does anyone make a .5"-3/4" spacer for the rear and also are the rear shocks ok to do this? I know i'll have to adjust the rear autoride links and i'm guessing that is going to be a pain.
 

KMeloney

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Stiles -- You shouldn't have to adjust the rear autoride links when you go higher. Air gets pumped into the system when it senses that the ride is too LOW in the back, not too high. When it's too low, air is added to raise the rear. When it's higher, nothing happens.
 
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SFBEE

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Kirk, thank you for your response and help throughout doing this. It wasn't an easy decision with this autoride system. I was thinking i would need to extend the links in the rear (slightly) so if i loaded the vehicle down at all it would air up and maintain the new/leveled/lifted ride height? in other words, if I raise the rear 1" and leave the links alone the auto level won't kick in until it's sagging 1" with a load...wouldn't that be the case? if i have extra people and/or weight in the back i want to make sure the autoride kicks in and keeps the new level ride.

also, for what it's worth i did notice that the sensors in the front changed with the front strut spacer. i asked the installer to take reference measurements (which he did not do). However, i took before and after pictures and i can't tell just how much but you can notice that the upper arm that attaches to the top of the link/rod sits closer to where it is mounted....so that relationship did change.
 

felixgun

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I have autoride on my avy ltz and a 2.5/1.5 leveling kit. Absolutely zero issues. I've had it on for about a year now. It looks 10x better and don't regret it one bit. Top Gun Customz up front and just a rear billet spacer from ebay in the back.
 

KMeloney

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also, for what it's worth i did notice that the sensors in the front changed with the front strut spacer. i asked the installer to take reference measurements (which he did not do). However, i took before and after pictures and i can't tell just how much but you can notice that the upper arm that attaches to the top of the link/rod sits closer to where it is mounted....so that relationship did change.

Right -- but what affect has it had on anything?

I don't think I said that that angle wouldn't change. I said that the stroke of the shock wouldn't change -- and that not doing anything to the links wouldn't change anything...
 
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SFBEE

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Agreed. I haven't had any issues just merely stating that it does somewhat alter the relationship of the link/sensor position. for my own piece of mind, when i go up another 1/2" i'm going to make sure they measure it. I'm more worried about the ABS working properly for safety reasons. I'm sure it does but for anyone else reading this having the same question i did just wanted them to know it moves the sensors....but has yet to creat any problems and i don't believe it will. If i knew how to post pictures i would.
 
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SFBEE

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Couple questions:
1) does anyone make less than a 1" rear spacer to lift the rear?

2) Do I need shock extenders with a rear spacer

3) Will i need to extend the rear autoride sensors in order to maintain a level ride with heavier loads (extra people, trailer, etc)
 

ok2drule

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I lifted my 09 Tahoe and noticed that my ride control hardly ever comes on now. 3" lift on the front and a 2" on the back. I know something needs to change in the rear and I think the front as well. I put this on my 08 Avalanche LTZ and noticed a difference when hauling my boat with the load leveling. (Only pulled it one time) Looking for somebody who may have corrected the issue, without making longer rods to off set the difference.
 

KMeloney

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What are you calling "ride control?" If you're talking about the compressor, it's likely that either air isn't being called for, or you've got a problem with your compressor altogether.
 

ok2drule

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So I fixed my ride controle from doing the suspension lift. I cut the rods and made up spacer sleeves with set screws and set them to the proper 90 degree alignment.(fromt & rear) Now I rides right and the compressor comes on to adjust the ride height. Hauling my 23 foot liberator was a breeze. This does matter and I will tell you why. I never did this (spacer) upgrade on my 08 Avalanche and noticed it didn't ride the same and my compressor hardly ever came on even with a load. Not enough to level out like it should have. Also my front was setting just a little higher with the lift kit and now its level. The lift kit included

Front end lift 3" strut spacer
Rear 2" coil spacer and shock extension
 

Tony1

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So I fixed my ride controle from doing the suspension lift. I cut the rods and made up spacer sleeves with set screws and set them to the proper 90 degree alignment.(fromt & rear) Now I rides right and the compressor comes on to adjust the ride height. Hauling my 23 foot liberator was a breeze. This does matter and I will tell you why. I never did this (spacer) upgrade on my 08 Avalanche and noticed it didn't ride the same and my compressor hardly ever came on even with a load. Not enough to level out like it should have. Also my front was setting just a little higher with the lift kit and now its level. The lift kit included

Front end lift 3" strut spacer
Rear 2" coil spacer and shock extension

Do you have some pictures of the modified autoride sensor rods? TIA
 

MuSh

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Do you have a link from their site or can you tell me exactly what they are called? I'm having difficulty finding them on full throttles website
 

01Konvict

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You have to call them at 559-271-8685 and order over the phone. They don't show up on the website but are included as part of the 7-9" lift kit. They will sell them independently of the lift kit so its a perfect fix for lengthening rods in leveling applications on the autoride vehicles.
 

dr58dmtp

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Hi folks, new here. I am about to take over my wifes stock 2008 LTZ Tahoe and have been searching for autoride info, which brought me here! I am coming from a 2007 NNBS Silverado 1500 that I put a 6inch Fabtech on myself, so I am sorta tuned into lifting. That being said, I am more of a motorhead than a suspension nut, and looking for any and all advice.

What I would like to do to the Tahoe is add a small amount of lift, just enough to beef her up and do somewhere in the 32.5-33 inch tire range. I purchased Ranchos Readylift loaded with resistors from the front shocks. Wanted new springs and figured why not get the set already together. I also plan on adding the Readylift STT 1.5F/1R or similar.

I am looking at replacing the rear shocks with the arnott/bilstein autoride replacements that utilize the auto height adjust but kill the auto dampening to match the front disconnect.

Additionally, I have not decided on whether to leave the stock rims or go to an aftermarket. If going aftermarket, havent decided to stick with 20s or down to 18s...choices, choices...

Does this sound like I should need to "modify" anything else on the system or should I be good to go?

Also, any negatives on the lift/level choice?

Thanks in advance-
Dave
 

01Konvict

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Ok so you have a front level kit with resistors to disable lights for the mangeride? Did you remove the ride height sensors too?

You can reuse the stock springs as they don't wear down fast enough to replace. Normal level kits are 2.5F and 1-1.5R. Various manufactures make them and ebay is the place for rear coil spacers. If you want to dump the rear autoride best bang for buck is 5100s. You will need the same resistors for the rear to trick the computer. Also would get 5100s for the front instead of Ranchos to match the ride quality. Keep the stocks if you like them and run a 275/60R20 its 33x11.5R20
 

KMeloney

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I think you can easily keep autoride (that you don't need resistors to "trick" anything), since autoride tries to RAISE the rear if it has dropped to LOW. Since you're lifting your truck, the rear won't appear too low.

I've lowered my truck, so I had to shorten my rear links. Too-short links in the rear on a lifted truck shouldn't be an issue -- but then I'd ultimately defer to the folks who have raised their trucks.
 

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