Lights dimming bad

[gfunkfb09]

I just installed an new amp in my 04 yukon xl. It's a Planet Audio AP1500D, and i have it wired to 1ohm pushing 2 Alpine type r 12's in a probox super bass box. It's pushing 1000 watts rms so each sub is getting 500watts and everything sounds great and hits hard. I have havent noticed the bass cutting out or amp going into protection mode either. My only complaint is that my lights are dimming really bad when the bass hits. I have already done the big 3 with 0/1 gauge wire and i have 4 gauge running from the battery to the amp and 4 gauge for the ground. I'm pretty sure my yukon has the 145 amp alternator, and i have a less than year old Die Hard battery. I have heard that caps don't work so im not going to waste my money.

Do I need a higher output alternator?

Do I need to run 0/1 gauge all the way to the amp?

What are my options to fix this problem?

Thanks guys.

 

[droppedHoe]

1: run 0/1 from the front to the back as well to a dist block then 4ga to your amp. better voltage

2: add an extra battery to support the stereo. simply adding say a kinetic,odyssey,deka,powermaster etc..will support your system, hid's etc

3: upgrade your alt with one thats atleast 220amp.

dont have to do 1 or 3, but it helps

i noticed when i had my tahoe my voltage was always over 13.9 but had some dimming until i swapped the alt. i put a 280 or 300 in, never saw my lights dim after that.

had some dimming in my new truck after adding a few things, tossed the stock batt for a khc1800... no more dimming. my stock alt is a 150amp in my navigator but i'll eventually run dual 240s that both do 160amps at idle and 240 at 2500rpm

---------- Post added at 03:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:32 AM ----------

ooopps the one i had in my tahoe was a 250amp alt
here's the link to the one that was in my tahoe
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/250A...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[killer20072001]

What he said^

Maybe you missed something on your big 3 upgrade? I have a Sundown SAZ-3500 with the big 3 and 1/0 ran to the amp and my lights dim but not that bad. Im actually suprised how much my lights dont dim. My Iraggi alt is coming in this week that should take care of all the dimming. In your case I would say the extra battery would deffinatly help you alot. If you move up to a bigger stereo in the future get an alt but id say your safe right now with the stock one. You are very correct about the capacitor they are useless and sometimes more harmful than helpful.

 

[blueflamed03]

First, do a quick check, at night, when lights, heater, etc are on, with stereo wanging, check voltage AT the battery with truck running.

Be curious where its reading. I dont see 1000 watts dimming lights that much.

 

[gfunkfb09]

How hard is adding a battery or alt?

How hard is it to add a battery? Is this the cheapest, and best way for me to go?

Or if i just go ahead and getting a higher output alt will that do the trick? I don't wanna spend a fortune and wanna know what ya'll think is best.

I will run 0/1 gauge to the amp and see how that does, then I will look into the 2nd battery. I'm not very familiar with adding an extra battery and would like to know how that works.

I do plan to add another 4 channel amp to my yukon to power all the door speakers in the future, so if I upgrade now I don't wanna have to again.

Thanks guys.

 

[PUNKYOU007]

For a second battery all you need to do is run a length of 1/0 from the Positive on one battery to the positive on the other. For the ground on the second battery you could do a run of 1/0 to the other batt just like you did for the positive but it is not necessary. You can just ground to the frame. Just make sure its a clean ground.

A ** alt is going to run you close to $500 easy! If you do indeed have a 145A alt you should be fine.

I agree ith what DroppedHoe said about running 1/0 to the amp. I would not use a distribution block though, unless you have multiple amps to feed. You can buy 1/0 to 4ga reducers for a few bucks.

Check your Big 3 and make sure all the connections are good and clean. Big 3 normally helps out a lot for smaller set ups.

 

[gfunkfb09]

Placing the battery

Thanks for the replies guys, so where is a good place to mount this second battery and do they make battery trays for a second battery on our cars?

Once I have the new battery installed which battery do I connect my amp and other accessories to? And I keep the big 3 connected to the main battery correct?

 

[blueflamed03]

want to run the second battery in the rear,. close to amps?

 

[gfunkfb09]

In the rear?

So I can mount it close to the amps in the rear of the yukon? If so, I run 1/0 guage for battery under the hood, to battery in the rear, and I connect the amp(s) to the 2nd battery which is in the car? Is that correct, or is it easier to mount under hood? Thanks.

 

[Dvldogyut]

You can buy a second battery tray that mounts on the rear passenger side under the hood. Very easy to do that way.

 

[gfunkfb09]

Battery tray?

Where might I find one of these battery trays? Any place online got them?

And whats a good battery to go with? And I should be alright leaving the battery alone right now and just getting a deep cell one as the 2nd one right? The one I have now is a die hard gold series I think.

And I heard something about a battery relay that keeps the batteries from draining, what is that and is it needed?

Thanks

 

[Dvldogyut]

Okay, you can get the tray, battery hold down, and the hold down bolt from a gm dealership for around $40. Or you can try junk yards, you will find them on most diesel trucks. And don't mix batteries, have two the same type and age. This will shorten the life of the batteries. I would go with XsPower batteries. D3400 will fit in the stock locations. Also the battery isolator won't be needed as long as you don't play your system without the vehicle started. All it does is keep from draining both batteries so you can still start it.

 

[gfunkfb09]

Great information about dual batteries, does anything think a new deep cycle battery to replace the old battery I have know can correct the problem? And of course I will run 0/1 gauge wire too.

 

[blueflamed03]

I second the XS Power battery as your primary battery.

 

[PUNKYOU007]

There are many companies out there. Kinetik, XS Power, C&D Technologies, shuriken, Optima....many many more.

A lot of people are turning to XS Power, well, because Steve Meade runs them and he is a big player when it comes to car audio. Only problem with most of these batteries is you can only find them online unless you are lucky enough have a local battery shop or car audio shop that sells them. Or try a speed shop local to you.

I run Kinetik and Optima and mine are fine and I couldn't be happier. The great thing about Optima is you can find them at any auto parts store. If you even need a replacement, its just around the corner.

As for where you can put one....thats completely up to you and the space you want to dedicate to a battery. In my suburban I put two all the way in the back where my stock sub was.

I also have two in the foot well of the third row seat. Box was unfinished BTW.

And i have one up front. So thats just some ideas.

If you do end up putting your battery in the back within a foot or so of your amplifier. You can ground your amp to your battery, just make sure where ever you ground that battery, that its a good ground. This will save you from having to buy a bunch of 1/0 so you can run a ground for each. Its not necessary. Wont hurt if you do run a ground for each just not necessary.

For the size of the battery, best would be to decide whos batteries you want to run then find out what size is recommended for your particular setup. Most of the companies have different size batteries...you may not need a big ol 100lb battery.

http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/powercalc.asp



Hope this helps.

 

[gfunkfb09]

I checked the voltage last night and when the subs aren't hitting my voltage is around 16.5 to 16.8, then when it hit is drops to the low 14s and my lights dim, is this normal? I havent upgraded to 0/1 yet or anything.

 

[PUNKYOU007]

16.5-16.8 is far from normal! Are you running an MLA? If you are charging that high you will more thank likely kill your batt...if your lucky. You need to address this ASAP

That is super high for normal charging. If you had the equipment to charge that high you would know and would not be asking. Other than that there is an issue. Also if you are only dipping in the 14's and still dimming either you have one hell of a system or again there are some major electrical issues going on.

Normal 12v batts will not last long under these conditions, they may swell badly or explode!!!

I run dual alts and an MLA and even on an extremely cold morning my charging voltage with my system off is only 15.9-16.3 which is even dangerous for my equipment.

 

[gfunkfb09]

I checked the voltage at the amp and the battery while the car was running and it stays in the 16s, so this isn't normal?

What could cause this issue?

What do I need to do to fix this, do I take it to the dealership or a car audio place?

And what is a MLA?

Thanks

 

[PUNKYOU007]

in my experience the only way you should be charging the the 16 volt range is if you have an upgraded electrical system. Normal 12 volt batteries should not be charged with more than 14.9 volts...so 16 volts can damage them. Cause them to swell or worse cause them to explode.

I don't have a clue as to why you are charging this high. Have you done any electrical upgrades to your truck? High output alternator?

MLA stands for Missing Link Audio. They make a little black box that will boost your vehicles charging voltage.

 

[gfunkfb09]

Only upgrade I have done is the big 3 with 0/1 gauge welding cable, I have the battery and block both grounded on the same place on the frame, and the wire from the alternator to the battery is fused with a 300 amp fuse. Is this done correctly? And i believe I have a 145 amp alt that came on the truck, but idk how to tell if I do or not.