Yeah, buuuuut... That was all so 5 or 6 pages ago. You're just gonna have to accept that we own this thread now.
Then I'd say you got a bad deal. Get your money back.
Latest oil change/ oil filters
- Thread starter Larryjb
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Then I'd say you got a bad deal. Get your money back.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Then I'd say you got a bad deal. Get your money back.
Well, at least I'm getting my money's worth out of this site with the way the server has been acting up lately.
Interesting observation today. The Gasket Kleen actually does quite a nice job of cleaning carbon from the tops of the cylinders. Rotate the engine to TDC and two cylinders will be just above the block deck. Spray it with Gasket Kleen, leave for a time, clean with a wire brush, use a razor to clean the outer rim of the piston, wipe down with brake cleaner. Compressed air will clean off the rest including clearing out any remaining brake clean that slipped down the side.
I wasn't going to spend any significant time cleaning off carbon, but this made it really easy. I'm almost ready to clean any residual oils from the block surface, then start installing the heads.
I wasn't going to spend any significant time cleaning off carbon, but this made it really easy. I'm almost ready to clean any residual oils from the block surface, then start installing the heads.
I got the right side torqued to 22 ft_lbs. Angle torques will have to wait for another day. Left side coated with WD40 because it is cold and damp at night.
Brake cleaner does not evaporate very well from headbolt holes. Even after blowing out the residual with compressed air there was still a film of it on the threads. I will try following brake cleaner with acetone on the other side.
Brake cleaner does not evaporate very well from headbolt holes. Even after blowing out the residual with compressed air there was still a film of it on the threads. I will try following brake cleaner with acetone on the other side.
iamdub
Full Access Member
What brake cleaner are you using? There are a few different types, most commonly chlorinated and non-chlorinated. I find the non-flammable ones don't work as well and I think those are the ones that leave residues behind. I keep stocked up on the the Super Tech from Walmart cuz it's cheap and works great. It's also a great bonfire starter and wasp nest incinerator because you can ignite the spray from the can and have a handheld blowtorch.
CountryBoy19
Full Access Member
IIRC, non-chlorinated brake-cleaner is mostly acetone in an aerosol can... The lack of evaporation may actually be the brake-cleaner chilling the parts down (notice how it makes parts cold?) causing condensation of moisture...
The brake cleaner is the non-flammable, no residue type from CRC.
I found a much better way to get the holes dry. I used the air hose, but I attached a smaller vacuum hose to the end. The original problem I had was that the compressor was putting too much air through and blowing the hose off, so I had given up. Silly me had forgotten I could reduce the pressure of my compressor. As soon as I did so, I was able to put my vacuum hose on there and blow all the crud out. I got a lot more crud out making me wonder if the first side won't be as good. I'm going to take my chances as the gasket is already compressed.
The other problem I had was that I had ordered the wrong lifter guide. This one is totally on me. I was looking on Rockauto for lifter tray instead of lifter guide. Even in the lifter guide, there are no pictures of the tray, and the ACDelco had no picture. But, it did have a part number that I could have looked up. So, I'm having to take my chances with the old guides. I have no time to wait for new ones. We have cold weather coming, and I've been borrowing my sister's car for over 2 months now. (There are other issues going on in life causing this project to take so long).
I found a much better way to get the holes dry. I used the air hose, but I attached a smaller vacuum hose to the end. The original problem I had was that the compressor was putting too much air through and blowing the hose off, so I had given up. Silly me had forgotten I could reduce the pressure of my compressor. As soon as I did so, I was able to put my vacuum hose on there and blow all the crud out. I got a lot more crud out making me wonder if the first side won't be as good. I'm going to take my chances as the gasket is already compressed.
The other problem I had was that I had ordered the wrong lifter guide. This one is totally on me. I was looking on Rockauto for lifter tray instead of lifter guide. Even in the lifter guide, there are no pictures of the tray, and the ACDelco had no picture. But, it did have a part number that I could have looked up. So, I'm having to take my chances with the old guides. I have no time to wait for new ones. We have cold weather coming, and I've been borrowing my sister's car for over 2 months now. (There are other issues going on in life causing this project to take so long).
Condensation is definitely due to weather. BC Canada is a rainforest, and the temperatures at night are probably in the mid to high 30's. Next week is freezing, so I've GOT to get this job done.
Got it back together tonight. I ran the starter a couple of times without starting, then started the truck. It started and ran great for the first 10 minutes. Then, after the thermostat opened, I had bad misfires, codes P0174 (lean) and P0300 (misfires... duh... no kidding, I didn't need a computer to tell me that).
It appears that I have either not torqued something enough, or forgotten to connect something. I don't think a computer relearn would be this rough. The trouble is that I've had everything open, including the exhaust.
It appears that I have either not torqued something enough, or forgotten to connect something. I don't think a computer relearn would be this rough. The trouble is that I've had everything open, including the exhaust.
Got it back together tonight. I ran the starter a couple of times without starting, then started the truck. It started and ran great for the first 10 minutes. Then, after the thermostat opened, I had bad misfires, codes P0174 (lean) and P0300 (misfires... duh... no kidding, I didn't need a computer to tell me that).
It appears that I have either not torqued something enough, or forgotten to connect something. I don't think a computer relearn would be this rough. The trouble is that I've had everything open, including the exhaust.
It appears that I have either not torqued something enough, or forgotten to connect something. I don't think a computer relearn would be this rough. The trouble is that I've had everything open, including the exhaust.
iamdub
Full Access Member
My first thought and hope is that you left a sensor unplugged or loose and it was one that's ignored during open loop. Get an SES light after you started it?
It idled well this morning. I panicked a little when I got a low oil warning. I used my spare car and dealt with it tonight. The good news is that when it starts up there is no lifter tapping. The bad news is the engine miss. I have tracked it down to cylinders 2, 4, 6, and sometimes 8 only when the engine is up to temperature. The missing is worst on cylinder 6, about 3x worse than the others. The missing occurs at idle and under heavy load when climbing hills. Light loads exhibit almost no misses at all. Cylinders 1, 3, 5, and 7 have no misses at all. I should be able to rule out any sensors at the intake or before because they would affect all 8 cylinders. I suspect the RHS intake gasket not seating properly. I may have not seated the gasket properly when installing it. I have the old one I could reuse and it may seal better if I've crimped this one.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Check the gap on the plugs too.
afpj
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Did you remember to angle torque the right side? It seems coincidental that it's the right side that's misfiring.
iamdub
Full Access Member
It's really sounding like a head isn't sealing and the problem is worse when the thermostat is open cuz the coolant is being pushed by the water pump and it may be getting into the combustion chambers. Coolant level dropped since you've been driving it?
It maybe sorting itself out. I may have contaminated the 02 sensor when spraying the blockwith cleaner. I put the scantool on and monitored the O2 sensor, it was switching normally. In fact, on my trip home it didn't miss at all. The contamination may be burning off now. I may consider replacing the sensors.
The plugs I have are gapped at the factory and they advise against adjusting the gap. Also, it is just too coincidental that only the right side plugs would be gapped so badly that they would miss this much.
Believe me, I made absolutely sure I torqued the heads right. I got my angle guage to fit in for all head bolts. Coolant level is stable now.
The plugs I have are gapped at the factory and they advise against adjusting the gap. Also, it is just too coincidental that only the right side plugs would be gapped so badly that they would miss this much.
Believe me, I made absolutely sure I torqued the heads right. I got my angle guage to fit in for all head bolts. Coolant level is stable now.
