L.E.D. Bulb Conversion/Cross Reference List

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jake720

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So I switched my cluster bulbs and if I twist the new ones in all the way they will not power on. If I barely twist them they do come on. The problem is now when I drive they flicker off and on constantly and is driving me nuts. Ant suggestions?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
 

Caleb01Hoe

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I was building my cart and i cant remember if you have to buy replacement twistlocks for the dash bulbs. Can you just reuse the stock ones? Or do i have to purchase new ones for the bulbs i replace with led's.
 
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NathanJax

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I was building my cart and i cant remember if you have to buy replacement twistlocks for the dash bulbs. Can you just reuse the stock ones? Or do i have to purchase new ones for the bulbs i replace with led's.

for the 00-02 you will need to buy new twist locks.
 

doylee4693

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I cant figure out how to replace the glove box bulb. i tried really hard to pull it out without breaking it and couldnt get it out. Am I missing something?
 

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LED Lights have a low power consumption and long and predictable lifetime.The lifetime of LED street lights is usually 10 to 15 years, three times the life of current technologies adopted. LEDs also have low maintenance cost.
 
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Vette66

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Hey anybody have a complete interior parts list for the LED conversion. This thread changes and would like a list for everything that's current. This will be for an 02 Yukon xl.

Thanks in advanced,

Chris
 
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Blue2002Tahoe

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Assuming the lights are the same as my 02 tahoe, you need 194 LEDs for. Each door, I have four total. The floor lamps/courtesy lights are 194s also. The dome lights need 578 festoon bulbs. The 9-led worked great for me. The rear dome light I think just has one bulb, but it may have three, the center dome light has three of these. If you have map lights in the front, they use the 194 LEDs that the doors and floor lights use.
If you want to do the exterior puddle lights under the side mirrors, you will need two more festoon bulbs.
Also, the license plate bulbs are 194s as well.
The glove box (if you want to change everything) uses one 194 bulb

So to do all of these you need:

11 -194 LEDs
6 (maybe 8)- 578 festoon LEDs

I ordered mine from superbrightleds.com and would recommend them to get your LEDs.

Hope this helps
 
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This is a great thread! I did the whole truck for less then $40 and I have a bunch left over in case they ever burn out. Thanks for the info guys!
 

Grimes

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Went ahead and did this one after long wanting to! Did full exterior and interior, save for a couple that were useless (under hood) and already replaced (tails). I hope this list helps someone in the future!

PS: Exterior flashing issues handled by Novita LM487 Flasher

Exterior:
-2x Daytime Running Light - 4114 - 3157-W18-T -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...led-bulb-dual-intensity-18-smd-led-tower/802/

-2x Parking/"Turn Signal" - 3157A - 3157-A18-T -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...led-bulb-dual-intensity-18-smd-led-tower/802/

-2x Back Up - 3157 - 3157-W18-T -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...led-bulb-dual-intensity-18-smd-led-tower/802/

-2x Fog/Driving - 880 - 880-WHP9 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...880-led-bulb-9-led-daytime-running-light/151/

-2x Puddle - 6451 - 4210-CWHP6 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/6451-led-bulb-6-smd-led-festoon/662/

-2x License Plate - 194 - WLED-W-120 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/194-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/197/

-2x Front Side Marker - 194 - WLED-A-120 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/194-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/197/

Interior:
-1x Glove Box - 194 - WLED-W-120 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/194-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/197/

-4x Vanity/Sun Visor - Vanity - Vanity -
http://www.vleds.com/6k-white-hi-power-3-chip-2-led-vanity-sun-visor-light-bulb.html

-2x Map - 161 or 211-2 or 578 - WLED-NW6 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/194-led-bulb-6-led-wedge-base/200/

-2x Dome - 211-2 or 578 - 4210-CWHP6 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/6451-led-bulb-6-smd-led-festoon/662/

-4x Switchable Dome - 211-2 or 578 - 4410-CW9 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/578-led-bulb-9-led-festoon/237/

-4x Door/Courtesy - 168 or 561 or 74 - WLED-W-120 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/194-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/197/

Overall:
7x - WLED-W-120 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/194-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/197/

2x - WLED-NW6 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/194-led-bulb-6-led-wedge-base/200/

4x - 4210-CWHP6 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/6451-led-bulb-6-smd-led-festoon/662/

4x - 4410-CW9 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/578-led-bulb-9-led-festoon/237/

4x - Vanity - http://www.vleds.com/6k-white-hi-power-3-chip-2-led-vanity-sun-visor-light-bulb.html

4x - 3157-W18-T -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...led-bulb-dual-intensity-18-smd-led-tower/802/

2x - 880-WHP9 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...880-led-bulb-9-led-daytime-running-light/151/

2x - 3157-A18-T -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...led-bulb-dual-intensity-18-smd-led-tower/802/

2x - WLED-A-120 -
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/194-led-bulb-1-led-wedge-base/197/

Not included: Under Hood, Tail Light, Brake Light, Rear Turn Signal (I
keep a head lamp in my truck, and will have LED tails)

Total was $226.93. That price is hefty because of the expensive exterior bulbs. Interior can be fully done easily under $100, then can start sacrificing to go far lower.

Result (slightly brighter, cooler white):
IMG_0114_zpsad1c886d.jpg

IMG_0110_zps5c6f2829.jpg

IMG_0108_zpsde4a5ec1.jpg

IMG_0102_zpsacc59669.jpg
 
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Hayden's Truck

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Used the amber on the dash and within 10 seconds ready to rip them out, I used the NEO3-A and they have hotspots and are really dim. The installation was a piece of cake, a 9v battery with leads from a DMM works great to check polarity on cluster.
 

Grimes

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Just wanted to make some quick explanations for each light. I knew it would've helped me out. To note, there is no need to unplug the battery. Just be smart, avoid water. The more important thing is remember that your body's oils are what burn halogens, so if you are putting halogens in, wear gloves. Also, if you are taking halogens out, be sure to finish what you start. Otherwise you're just risking problems.

Interior:
Glove box:
Obviously, there is one bulb. It is immediately inside, offset a little right from center. I found it easiest by using a small handle mirror, but it can also be found by following the heat and just feeling around. Once found, you'll notice it is buried in there pretty good, or at least should be. My suggestion is to wear a thing glove to provide more traction and less interference from the perspiration. Put one finger on the push pin that turns the light off (when the box shuts), and use the other hand to work the bulb. It'll come out. Then pop your LED in, make sure it sits just as firm as the halogen did.

Vanity/Sun Visor:
These played a little trick on me. Anyway, to get the clear lens off you will need to run a small flat head (small as in, normally used to adjust glasses) and work it around all of the edges, torquing the lens in different spots. You'll feel the sweet spots, and you'll see the 3 tabs that you'll need to release. One top, one bottom, and one at the lateral side. Once out, remove the halogen, and put in your LED. Note: The orientation DID matter for the vanity lights I got from v-leds. So just play with it a little by flipping it. I could not identify which markings that displayed the correct orientation, but eventually found it by rotating it. Was just surprised, as it is the only LED that has this issue!

Map:
When looking at the light (these are the button-on lights in the front), you'll see a little tab sized opening on the edge. Get your small flat head and start carefully getting in there and torquing it up and off. From there, take out the reflective mirror by just getting some traction on it and pulling down. Pull the bulb, pop yours in. Now, you'll have the rotate the mirror around a little to get it to "stick", and just quickly snap the clear lens back on. The key is just making sure the mirror is not tilted or anything. Its easier than it sounds though. Rinse and repeat for #2.

Dome & Switchable dome:
The dome lights are the 2 lights, 1 in middle and 1 in rear, that turn on when the doors open/vehicle unlocks via fob. The switchable domes are the ones lateral to the domes which turn on via a button. To open the housing, look on either side of it and you will see a tab sized opening on one of the sides. Get a flat head in there and torque it, and the housing will flip down, held up on one side by a nifty ladder system. If it comes off, no worries, just look at the brackets and see how if fits back on. Hard to break. Anyway, just pop the halogens out and the LEDs right on in. Be sure to angle them how you want. Also, if you notice them flickering, just adjust them to ensure proper contact.

Doors/Courtesy Lights:
These are the lights on the 4 doors which turn on when the doors open. They all come out the same. Open the doors, and let them sit open for a bit. The lights will eventually turn off. Put a stronger flat head in on the red side (the wire/bulb are on the clear/white side) and work it in between the door material and the housing. Lift up a little to see where you are at, and shoot to go deep. If you do not go deep enough, you will risk popping off the clear lens, which is NOT supposed to happen. Go deep, once you know you are under the little ledge that the lens is attached to, then pull up and out, and the whole plastic housing will come out, wire attached, lens still on. Pull the wire out, with force on the socket/thicker part. It'll come out easy. Simply replace the bulb, then push the socket back in, and I believe it'll "snap". Done. Fit the wire back into the door comfortably, then push the housing back in, and it seats pretty easily.

Exterior:
I'll leave tails, DRLs, fogs, and headlights out as those aren't really for this thread. Those are big and simple. Just be sure to be putting things in the right sockets.

Puddles:
These are the lights under the mirrors. I think I broke both of mine in the process, but they still seated fine. Oh well. They are just stubborn. There is a little bevel tab that you'll have to force in with a flat head, and angle it right to pull the whole housing down. Just work with it. You'll see 2 small screws on top, take those out and you'll find your socket. Again, angle it right and so that it fits in the case (the LEDs I got had to be pretty wickedly angled to fit due to width). Then shove it all back up in there.

License plate:
Proprioception was my friend on this one. Put your hand under the back of the truck and maneuver it as if you were to touch the back of the light. There you will find a socket. Twist it one way or another until it turns, and just pull straight out. Switch bulbs, put it back in, twist to lock. There is not much else in that space so it is real easy to find the socket.

Hope this helps folks on this forum and any lost google'rs. Good luck. And to anyone still hesitant on an LED swap, just do it! It is totally, totally worth it.
 

LOWHOE775

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Yes, the 42mm wil fit as well, it's just a tighter squeeze and a POS to get in over all. They have the exact same light output...

Hey Nathan just did mine and everything is fine except the puddles under the mirrors and the lights for the rear passengers(button ones) seems that the puddles have some light in them even when they are off. And the rear passenger ones stay bright for a while then they get dimmer, same with the third row area. idk what's going on pics below. Any help will be appreciated thanks
u6avaza3.jpg
qehu6u3e.jpg
ababygyq.jpg
y5ynevup.jpg

The middle lights are perfect . Side ones have problems
 
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NathanJax

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Hey Nathan just did mine and everything is fine except the puddles under the mirrors and the lights for the rear passengers(button ones) seems that the puddles have some light in them even when they are off. And the rear passenger ones stay bright for a while then they get dimmer, same with the third row area. idk what's going on pics below. Any help will be appreciated thanks


The middle lights are perfect . Side ones have problems


I'm guessing it's your LED's. They are seeing a very small electric current and that's what your seeing. Those LED's must be ultra sensitive.

For example, for LED's in home use, you have to get special dimmers because standard dimmers for incandescent bulbs always have a little power going through them. Not enough to make the filament turn on, but enough to NOT turn off the LED.

You can Google "led lights staying on" and you'll see A LOT of other people have the same issue. I've never had the issue in any of my rides. I don't know why not, but I can tell you I've basically used the same bulbs from the same place (superbrightleds.com) and never had an issue.
 

LOWHOE775

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I'm guessing it's your LED's. They are seeing a very small electric current and that's what your seeing. Those LED's must be ultra sensitive.

For example, for LED's in home use, you have to get special dimmers because standard dimmers for incandescent bulbs always have a little power going through them. Not enough to make the filament turn on, but enough to NOT turn off the LED.

You can Google "led lights staying on" and you'll see A LOT of other people have the same issue. I've never had the issue in any of my rides. I don't know why not, but I can tell you I've basically used the same bulbs from the same place (superbrightleds.com) and never had an issue.

Thanks a lot and I will google it and do some research
 

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